*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
1,866
74
48
Surfed a different La Jolla beachbreak today with many other people that also decided to surf that La Jolla beachbreak. Everyone was well-behaved for the most part. I packed a lot of pinchy, too fast barrels and got annihilated over and over on my fish, then made two on one wave as the tide went low.
 

Mr J

Gerry Lopez status
Aug 18, 2003
1,008
60
48
Melbourne Australia
… a 10 day excursion on the east facing gulf of Thailand with my wife.

...No waves at all today, 0.8 m predicted by 7am tomorrow, fingers crossed we shall see.
Got a grovel and it was just a grovel, but enough to make me amazingly happy, even more amazing is the amount of post flu clear snot that continues to emerge from my respiratory system.

1.0 m predicted tomorrow :giggle:

 

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,820
613
113
Cent Cal
no surf report cause I was in the central valley for xmas but on today's 9 hour journey home through the coastal route, I'm getting gas in Oxnard and ordered my Subway sangwich for the road and Tom Fucking Curren is behind me. Whoa!
Wait.

You eat at Subway?
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
23,816
1,039
113
Tower 13
Soft with a large range of wave size this morning. Road the fuse as a twin trailer. Not sure if it was conditions or what but did not like. Too squirrly.

My bonzer egg would have been perfect.
 
  • Like
Reactions: teeroi

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,820
613
113
Cent Cal
I deserve that. Not unless I have to. Had to take the coastal route home from Frresno. Gas station had a subway. wife, two kids, 9.5 hour trip, Subway amazing lol.
A Curren sighting is always fun though. I feel like a lot of surfer probably stop in their tracks and just stare.

Did you hear what he ordered? I'm guessing either the tuna salad or chicken teriyaki.
 

Mr J

Gerry Lopez status
Aug 18, 2003
1,008
60
48
Melbourne Australia
Got a grovel and it was just a grovel, but enough to make me amazingly happy, even more amazing is the amount of post flu clear snot that continues to emerge from my respiratory system.

1.0 m predicted tomorrow :giggle:
...
if the grovel I reported was 0.8 then the Gulf of Thailand easily produced 1.0 the next day - stocked :giggle: back in Bangkok now, so that was my last surf of 2019
Samui2.jpeg
 

Mr J

Gerry Lopez status
Aug 18, 2003
1,008
60
48
Melbourne Australia
The CI New Flyer was fitted with AM Blackstix front and some small quad symmetrical foil trailers. The first time I have used it as a quad, I was hoping to maximise speed. The Koh Samui shore breaking waves makeable, but doing funky things so I wasn't able to get an impression of whether the quad setup is better or worse at HP surfing than the tri setup

The tufflite construction felt unbeatable in the Gulf of Thailand sloppy windswell, which was peaky and had a decent kick to it. Despite being delighted by the sensation of the ultra responsive epoxy PVC sandwich I anticipate going back to PU/PE when I return to Oz. For reasons I can't fully explain I have kept reaching for my Chilli Grom Plus and Chilli Mini Boar (both PU/PE) for the last year and a half.

Samui1.jpeg
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,200
869
113
eastside oahu
Haven’t surfed in a couple weeks cause the conditions and for the last week caught a cold. Today it felt like I could go in the water and not get more sick. Plus let the salt water help me blow all the boogers out.

Surfed Bowls. There’s a little swell and was hoping for the west wrap from the not Eddie swell. It was waist high but high tide soft. Rode my Moonfish. It was fun heckling all the dawn patrol crew. Actually got a fun reo on a quick close out and on a runner got a roundhouse to backside off the lip rebound. The Moonfish works great for those. Paddled over to Rockpiles to wish that crew Happy New Year and got a couple deep ones. One of the regulars saw me get two turns on a wave and asked what board I was riding. Said it looked good. Been stoke-Ed on it.

The west wrap hasn’t really started so hopefully tomorrow morning will be better. North and West gonna be too big for next couple days.
 

20W-50 and blood

Duke status
Feb 4, 2004
22,129
148
63
SOCAL
Visit site
paddled four quick miles, for about 3/4 of a mile i accepted an invite from a pod of playful and friendlies to cruise with them. MIND blowing. just F*()#&*(# mindblowing, every damn time. Rode three waves on the boat as i was coming in. i'm getting pretty decent at the fat mexican gumby bendy back and drag, sit up, sit forward, bendy back, drag the outside arm type of prone surf thing.
 
Oct 22, 2018
87
126
33
SF x Encinitas
Back in Northern California, thank god. Dumping, overhead barrels and beatdowns on Monday morning. Three overlapping short-medium period swells, so the paddle was a decent workout. The two best sandbars were tight quarters. Still plenty of waves to go around. Didn't get the gaping barrel I was looking for but surfed well in real waves. Good warmup for the XL swell incoming.
 

Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
6,035
865
113
PNW
Just got back from Baja last night. Didn't die but had a few close calls (only half joking). Surfed a lot down there and really got pretty lucky with waves. Only a few days out of the month where I didn't surf and had many days where I spend 4-6+ hrs in the water. A couple sessions in particular stood out as some of my best of the year. Even the small days were fun thanks to the Stretch longboard I got from JDJ (with the help of surfboard facilitator Retodd). Rode mostly twins (Stamps Banjo 5-7, Rusty 6-3 and Album Townsend 6-8) and was really glad to have them. Driving into town yesterday evening I couldn't believe how massive the surf was, just a crazy contrast to the mostly serene waters of Baja. Feels like I'm coming down with a cold but might still go for a surf this evening since it looks like we are in for some days of stormy weather.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,200
869
113
eastside oahu
This new year celebration crap is all marketing. As if all your problems or good luck will end or start a minute after midnight. With that said I went for a last day of 2019. Haha

It was small and high tide and I stayed out longer than I thought. But I had fun. Surfed Ala Moana Rockpiles. Mostly just traded waves with a couple of the regulars and shot the sh*t. Got a couple of fun runners and managed a snap or two. Was mostly make sections and one turn.

This group of college kids came out and sat right on top of us. 3 girls and 3 guys. I was irritated at first but they were harmless. But they were kinda in my spot. Jabbering away. First little bump came I paddled really hard out and to the right. The girls eyes got big cause they weren’t paying attention and they thought they were going to get mowed.mowed on a waist high wave. After that they stayed way outside. Too far to get in the way. Problem solved. Haha