*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
1,875
76
48
Surfed a La Jolla beachbreak today. Head high to overhead range but very strange from the SW windswell pushing in and not nearly as powerful as it should have been. I got a couple that wanted to barrel but just couldn't get it done. Pulled up into one in the rip and tried to sneak under the lip, got knocked off, and then the board got thrown over the falls after me and clocked me full in the back of the head with the fins. A little bruising, no blood.
 

Mr J

Gerry Lopez status
Aug 18, 2003
1,076
88
48
Melbourne Australia
TLDR to this report - not a lot to see here, skip to the next posters report :)

On holiday in Thailand and arrived with 19 KG of baggage which consists of a suitcase with 7 3/4" skateboard with 53mm rock hard Bones wheels (in case anyone is wondering skateboards are measured by width, with the length being of less interest/importance), one surfboard in lightly padded bag, some Christmas/New years presents and sundry items.
Had 3 plays on the skateboard in Bangkok, but left that in my parents in law's place while I go on a 10 day excursion on the east facing gulf of Thailand with my wife.

The trip is designed to maximise the opportunities for surf, hence the choice of coast to get windswell from the monsoon winds which travels east this time of year. Although I am considering any surf to be had as a bonus and not necessity. 2019 has been a good surfing year for me back in Oz. Arrived in Sichon the day after a shoulder height swell unfortunately. My wife has some understanding of my hobby - "you might need to rent a longboard". Which I did and there was a fair selection at the resort. I chose a 9' NSP soft top with nose crease which got my some small clean shorebreaking waves on my first day.

The local club at the resort piled on some longboard and mid length boards on top of a motorbike with sidecar and went around the corner to bumpier, but bigger waves. Got to use the softop a couple more times since, also caught the flu from which I have largely recovered and now in Koh Samui .It was almost certainly the flu - aching, fever, could not eat much, although that part lasted only 1 day. My ultimate grovelling machine is with me, a 5' 4" tufflite CI New Flyer, it got wet yesterday in tiny knee height waves, I was really going in for just a paddle to get wet and top up my fitness and not up to much anyway, but got a couple of standups where I was a able to throw in a few fish killers which got me to the sand. My wife was surprised that the shortboard would travel on the little waves, I was too. No waves at all today, 0.8 m predicted by 7am tomorrow, fingers crossed we shall see.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,301
1,147
113
eastside oahu
Did some work on my friends house across the street from Pipe. North wind, rainy, barely head high. No takers. Not always sunny 8 foot barrels during the winter on the NS. Traffic and tourist everywhere. Haha.
 
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Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
1,875
76
48
Surfed a different La Jolla beachbreak today with many other people that also decided to surf that La Jolla beachbreak. Everyone was well-behaved for the most part. I packed a lot of pinchy, too fast barrels and got annihilated over and over on my fish, then made two on one wave as the tide went low.
 

Mr J

Gerry Lopez status
Aug 18, 2003
1,076
88
48
Melbourne Australia
… a 10 day excursion on the east facing gulf of Thailand with my wife.

...No waves at all today, 0.8 m predicted by 7am tomorrow, fingers crossed we shall see.
Got a grovel and it was just a grovel, but enough to make me amazingly happy, even more amazing is the amount of post flu clear snot that continues to emerge from my respiratory system.

1.0 m predicted tomorrow :giggle:

 

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,933
808
113
Cent Cal
no surf report cause I was in the central valley for xmas but on today's 9 hour journey home through the coastal route, I'm getting gas in Oxnard and ordered my Subway sangwich for the road and Tom Fucking Curren is behind me. Whoa!
Wait.

You eat at Subway?
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
24,002
1,319
113
Tower 13
Soft with a large range of wave size this morning. Road the fuse as a twin trailer. Not sure if it was conditions or what but did not like. Too squirrly.

My bonzer egg would have been perfect.
 
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jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,933
808
113
Cent Cal
I deserve that. Not unless I have to. Had to take the coastal route home from Frresno. Gas station had a subway. wife, two kids, 9.5 hour trip, Subway amazing lol.
A Curren sighting is always fun though. I feel like a lot of surfer probably stop in their tracks and just stare.

Did you hear what he ordered? I'm guessing either the tuna salad or chicken teriyaki.
 

Mr J

Gerry Lopez status
Aug 18, 2003
1,076
88
48
Melbourne Australia
Got a grovel and it was just a grovel, but enough to make me amazingly happy, even more amazing is the amount of post flu clear snot that continues to emerge from my respiratory system.

1.0 m predicted tomorrow :giggle:
...
if the grovel I reported was 0.8 then the Gulf of Thailand easily produced 1.0 the next day - stocked :giggle: back in Bangkok now, so that was my last surf of 2019
Samui2.jpeg
 

Mr J

Gerry Lopez status
Aug 18, 2003
1,076
88
48
Melbourne Australia
The CI New Flyer was fitted with AM Blackstix front and some small quad symmetrical foil trailers. The first time I have used it as a quad, I was hoping to maximise speed. The Koh Samui shore breaking waves makeable, but doing funky things so I wasn't able to get an impression of whether the quad setup is better or worse at HP surfing than the tri setup

The tufflite construction felt unbeatable in the Gulf of Thailand sloppy windswell, which was peaky and had a decent kick to it. Despite being delighted by the sensation of the ultra responsive epoxy PVC sandwich I anticipate going back to PU/PE when I return to Oz. For reasons I can't fully explain I have kept reaching for my Chilli Grom Plus and Chilli Mini Boar (both PU/PE) for the last year and a half.

Samui1.jpeg