*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

sushipop

Gerry Lopez status
Feb 7, 2008
955
258
63
The Dagobah System
Frrreeeeezing air temps today, but water felt good. Truck’s thermometer said 37’. Rode the log at the local and had fun on a bunch of small ones that ran across the reef. Pushed a little more into my turns and on a few cutbacks. Started to cross step more too. Achilles felt tight, but no pain so that was reassuring. Feet were stumps walking back thru the sand. I guess that acted like icing my ankle after a workout.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
23,816
1,039
113
Tower 13
Frrreeeeezing air temps today, but water felt good. Truck’s thermometer said 37’. Rode the log at the local and had fun on a bunch of small ones that ran across the reef. Pushed a little more into my turns and on a few cutbacks. Started to cross step more too. Achilles felt tight, but no pain so that was reassuring. Feet were stumps walking back thru the sand. I guess that acted like icing my ankle after a workout.
yeah that sand was like walking on needles this morning!
 
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Maz

Gerry Lopez status
May 18, 2004
1,277
267
83
Innzid
Fiiiiinalllyyy!

Last proper swell was 1 November, and it's been dead flat most days since. Yesterday and this morning, though, I surfed my beloved local three times on my 7'6 and then my 6'10. Pumping!
 
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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
2,586
103
63
Malibu, CA
I like to watch surfline cams on a second screen while I work. This group of guys at Waco were having the time of their life today.

 
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ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
234
75
28
Big Asian Island
Went out at the local river mouth this morning, about chest high, glassy with light snow, and tried out some new to me Reactor fins. Not too bad but felt on the stiff side. Waves were lacking power so prob not the best to judge tho. Still a good time none the less
 
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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
2,586
103
63
Malibu, CA
I rode a 6'9" today North of me. Everyone else is apparently a rock star and rode their 5'11's. I had fun on my Cadillac. Made one messy barrel. Felt pretty good about it. Then when I was walking up the beach I saw a guy get a wave that would've been an 8 at pipe today. It made mine look kinda terrible :)
 

sushipop

Gerry Lopez status
Feb 7, 2008
955
258
63
The Dagobah System
Well, another session to build off of at the local. A little more size today than I’ve been in since being back. Nothing crazy, but just some healthy ones. I stuck to the inside and got a couple really fun lefts on my log. It’s a 9’8” Jim Phillips Bastard if anyone cares. So much glide and turns are butter. A truly refined traditional noserider that has a stable front end with just enough lift. The rocker, rail, foil combo really locks in when you’re on the front end of the board. It turns really well and is just a total stoke machine. I run a 9.5” Greenough 4A in it.
Had more confidence so I worked on fading at the take off and pushing harder off the bottom into some baby cross steps. fook, I sound like a fucking longboarder. But it was fun and the Achilles is holding up. Picked up a 6’6” Mabile Honey Badger yesterday and hope to transition onto that after a few more log days.
Another fluffy sighting today, not by me. A friend saw a 6-7’er about 30 yards outside of the line up not long after we paddled out. They’re out there....
Oh, and, thanks to the effen general discussion forum, I had Eddie Murphys “My Girl Wants to Party All the Time” stuck in my head the whole time.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
23,816
1,039
113
Tower 13
Checked new zone and it was so bad went back to my local. Better than yesterday as it appeared but I wasn't in sync at all. Got one good wave and got sort of a halo barrel but I definitely could have stalled and got a legit one. GX felt really small. With the tide draining the 13 second swell seemed like 18 sec and I wanted more board.