Well, another session to build off of at the local. A little more size today than I’ve been in since being back. Nothing crazy, but just some healthy ones. I stuck to the inside and got a couple really fun lefts on my log. It’s a 9’8” Jim Phillips Bastard if anyone cares. So much glide and turns are butter. A truly refined traditional noserider that has a stable front end with just enough lift. The rocker, rail, foil combo really locks in when you’re on the front end of the board. It turns really well and is just a total stoke machine. I run a 9.5” Greenough 4A in it.
Had more confidence so I worked on fading at the take off and pushing harder off the bottom into some baby cross steps. fook, I sound like a fucking longboarder. But it was fun and the Achilles is holding up. Picked up a 6’6” Mabile Honey Badger yesterday and hope to transition onto that after a few more log days.
Another fluffy sighting today, not by me. A friend saw a 6-7’er about 30 yards outside of the line up not long after we paddled out. They’re out there....
Oh, and, thanks to the effen general discussion forum, I had Eddie Murphys “My Girl Wants to Party All the Time” stuck in my head the whole time.
Checked new zone and it was so bad went back to my local. Better than yesterday as it appeared but I wasn't in sync at all. Got one good wave and got sort of a halo barrel but I definitely could have stalled and got a legit one. GX felt really small. With the tide draining the 13 second swell seemed like 18 sec and I wanted more board.
First session back in the PNW after a glorious ten days in Kauai. Surfing in a 5/4 isn't even the same sport.
Got some fun steep drops but oddly weak walls. Uneven session. Some very inquisitive harbor seals spooked me at one point. Called it after 2 hours and just watched the waves from the beach for a while. Haven't done that in years. The Pacific coast of the US is something to behold.
Small day at the local with just a few friends out. Couple of decent turns but the swell was dwindling. There was another spot that was bigger but the wind was hitting it onshore and had a warble that didn't look fun to navigate. Forecast looks better there tomorrow
Wasn’t supposed to surf yesterday cause we were supposed to be gone but my son got the quick stomach bug the night before. Checked at dawn and it was swampy and kind of junky. Went back home then checked at 8:30 again and it had cleaned up nicely. Fun waist to chest high wedges on the gx and got a ton of
Waves in a short amount of time. Bigger infrequent sets would mow pretty
Good and if you caught a corner would offer a nice power turn combo or two. Wind became howling offshore for a bit then calmed back down. Weird swell but super fun waves for awhile in the pouring rain. My son getting sick was a blessing in disguise.
I'm in North County, SD for the Christmas, so blown out, crumbly, and weak. Surfed a mediocre reef break Tuesday and was stoked to find a couple of waves with enough power to propel my large body through some weak snaps and roundhouse cutbacks. Meanwhile, all around me 80-pound groms were blowing their fins out and flying through the air like monkeys. SoCal is a trip, man. I haven't seen a child in the water in months, and suddenly it's like I paddled into the middle of a NSSA contest.