*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,114
568
113
eastside oahu
I met Jeannie at Bowls this morning to give her something. There were some small waves so I went out to surf with her. Luckily brought my Moonfish. Everyone said it was bigger yesterday.

Waves were waist high and a little bigger. Nice conditions. Got some little nuggets. Did a nice figure 8 roundhouse to whitewater rebound. The board with the longer rail line and heaps of float works good for that turn. Glad I asked Wade to pull in the nose so it doesn’t get in the way. The Moonfish is turning into a quiver killer. Waist high to a few feet overhead. Still looking for a solid barrel.
 

sushipop

Nep status
Feb 7, 2008
911
164
43
The Dagobah System
Second and third sessions yesterday and today on the log at the local since getting the green light to surf again. Small, fun runners yesterday. Felt good to trim along on the lefts. A little more size today, but pretty soft with the tide. Felt more confident to push a little harder into my turns, but still taking it slow. Saw a great white breach maybe 200 yards out for the first time ever. Perfect view of its white belly, pectoral fins and tail. Gotta give fluffy credit for hitting it straight vert at 12 o’clock and getting its tail about 2-3’ out of the water—good form. Some peeps saw one last week as well. Pretty surreal.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
8,920
231
63
Oceanside, CA
Second and third sessions yesterday and today on the log at the local since getting the green light to surf again. Small, fun runners yesterday. Felt good to trim along on the lefts. A little more size today, but pretty soft with the tide. Felt more confident to push a little harder into my turns, but still taking it slow. Saw a great white breach maybe 200 yards out for the first time ever. Perfect view of its white belly, pectoral fins and tail. Gotta give fluffy credit for hitting it straight vert at 12 o’clock and getting its tail about 2-3’ out of the water—good form. Some peeps saw one last week as well. Pretty surreal.
o_O

Yesterday had a lot of fun on the VS HPTC longboard, trimming along the rare high-tide peaks that would run a bit.
Today, more swell on the buoy, and took out a fish/groveller that did well, but would have been much better off on the
longboard again as it was less consistent and the random outside sets were not happening. Sunrise was f'ing epic.
 

ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
228
66
28
Big Asian Island
Big swell and most places were closed out. There's only one place I know of that works at this size/direction swell and I hate it. On the way to look was surprised by a spot that never works that came to life. Paddled out and it was actually alright. Head high waves and light offshores. Got caught inside and broke my leash. Luckily the board popped up and over the whitewash and I made it to it before the next wave came. Had a comp leash in the car so switched it out for a few more waves
 

sd_101

Michael Peterson status
Jul 27, 2014
2,469
191
63
around san diego
You guys probably scored this morning and afternoon.

Plans to play hooky and then meetings ran long and another one added last minute and it also ran long.

looked closed out on my low tide drive home.
 
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teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,114
568
113
eastside oahu
Argh. Drove down to my NS regular. It’s a mess. Surf able but ugly. Short period storm surf. If I was still in my twenties I’d go out or drive up and down the coast looking for something.

I bet it’ll get better later.
 
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silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
23,661
790
113
Tower 13
My local was huge and closed out. Not sure why i even bothered. My big surf back up spot looked ok but not with 50 people. Ended up contemplating paddling out with san diego at one of their knows spots and finally said f it and found my little zone without getting bothered too much. Actually ended up getting some fun waves on the driver.

Got my first sut with a hood this year and you all can thank me for it being really warm so far. Not even close to needing it.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
52,049
846
113
The Bar
Water was warm but that 10 mph south wind was biting. Some lined up rights but tricky with combo of south wind chop and strong north->south longshore drift. Waves were a bit trashed but win was keeping rights open a bit. Had a period of time where slid right of wax dropping in twice, then started second-guessing everything. No idea WTF that was about but got another half dozen waves that lined up relatively ok, last of which I stepped off onto the sand.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,114
568
113
eastside oahu
Just got out from surfing my regular NS break. Northeast swell, a little overhead, light crowd but lots of current. Got a couple fun ones. My Moonfish handles double up late drops pretty well. Although it being a cheater board was hoping not to have as many late ones. Haha. I think the current and the swell direction just makes it harder to stay in the right takeoff zone so just gotta whip on the ones you can. In fact it’s best to stay busy catching lemons to reset position.

Looks like it’ll get better all morning as the tide drops and the morning sickness burns off. Hope you guys are getting some.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
8,920
231
63
Oceanside, CA
Very underwhelming session early on the new-to-me FCD Huevo. Conditions weren't as clean as I hoped
with wind blowing offshore most of the night and into the morning...kinda choppy and weird still. Managed a couple
rare hh+ rights that felt pretty good, and a few smaller lefts that really needed a smaller board, but I liked
my first impressions of the board. More testing will ensue.
 
Oct 22, 2018
75
102
33
SF x Encinitas
Firing inside bar with not many out. Ribs still painful but I had to hit it. Crazy how out of surf shape and rusty one can get in three weeks, even with regular gym workouts. Shamefully dodged an absolute drainer (guys shouting GO! from the shoulder) on my first wave. Redeemed myself on the second with a nice little right hand cover-up. One more, this time a solid left barrel that I couldn't quite make it out of. Next surf will probably be in a week when I go to my moms' in Encinitas for Christmas. Blah. I hate injuries.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
18,622
175
63
San Francisco, CA
Sunday was blown out and I got bored, so I removed 2 of three fins from one of my board, looked at the board, put in a bigger center fin than the one that was in there when it was 3 finned.

"Been a while since I rode a single fin, I should try that again. You know, stay fresh, reprime the nerves."

Took out that board this AM.

Mistake.

It was pitching with great tubing sections.

Needed to really make that bottom turn or top turn and tuck in for the run.

Not ideal to relearn single fins.

So those late drops had to be nursed a little....and left behind the section.

And again.

And again.

Ooo, straight off again.

Pearl.

Finally on my last two waves, had some fun.

Pro: really quick to get going, not much drag

Con: blown waves in crowded field led to lack of confidence on bigger waves which led to missed opportunities

PS
Peak to the north of me, shows on the outside, caps, backs off, then starts to bowl/wedge into a beautiful reform. A guy chases it, madly paddling, pops up while the wave pitches, mid-face bottom turn, hooks under the lip, then 15-20 feet down the line, drop-in goes, pumping to stay ahead while the guy in the tube closes in, and then the wave goes past my line of sight, and that is the end of it for me, next wave moving into position. Suddenly some motion and shouting. "Get the f$ck out! Go! F#ck you, go to the other end of the beach, get out, motherf@cker!" I tilt my head, turn and understand the words are coming from two people. Not needing to involved myself in something I'm not part of, figure I am out of position for this next wave, but maybe if the set continues to shift over.....lemme paddle a little bit out and then south some....
 
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