*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,531
1,933
113
eastside oahu
Argh. Drove down to my NS regular. It’s a mess. Surf able but ugly. Short period storm surf. If I was still in my twenties I’d go out or drive up and down the coast looking for something.

I bet it’ll get better later.
 
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silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
24,481
2,047
113
Tower 13
My local was huge and closed out. Not sure why i even bothered. My big surf back up spot looked ok but not with 50 people. Ended up contemplating paddling out with san diego at one of their knows spots and finally said f it and found my little zone without getting bothered too much. Actually ended up getting some fun waves on the driver.

Got my first sut with a hood this year and you all can thank me for it being really warm so far. Not even close to needing it.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
54,801
3,092
113
The Bar
Water was warm but that 10 mph south wind was biting. Some lined up rights but tricky with combo of south wind chop and strong north->south longshore drift. Waves were a bit trashed but win was keeping rights open a bit. Had a period of time where slid right of wax dropping in twice, then started second-guessing everything. No idea WTF that was about but got another half dozen waves that lined up relatively ok, last of which I stepped off onto the sand.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,531
1,933
113
eastside oahu
Just got out from surfing my regular NS break. Northeast swell, a little overhead, light crowd but lots of current. Got a couple fun ones. My Moonfish handles double up late drops pretty well. Although it being a cheater board was hoping not to have as many late ones. Haha. I think the current and the swell direction just makes it harder to stay in the right takeoff zone so just gotta whip on the ones you can. In fact it’s best to stay busy catching lemons to reset position.

Looks like it’ll get better all morning as the tide drops and the morning sickness burns off. Hope you guys are getting some.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,058
519
113
Oceanside, CA
Very underwhelming session early on the new-to-me FCD Huevo. Conditions weren't as clean as I hoped
with wind blowing offshore most of the night and into the morning...kinda choppy and weird still. Managed a couple
rare hh+ rights that felt pretty good, and a few smaller lefts that really needed a smaller board, but I liked
my first impressions of the board. More testing will ensue.
 

bluengreen

OTF status
Oct 22, 2018
191
343
63
SF x Encinitas
Firing inside bar with not many out. Ribs still painful but I had to hit it. Crazy how out of surf shape and rusty one can get in three weeks, even with regular gym workouts. Shamefully dodged an absolute drainer (guys shouting GO! from the shoulder) on my first wave. Redeemed myself on the second with a nice little right hand cover-up. One more, this time a solid left barrel that I couldn't quite make it out of. Next surf will probably be in a week when I go to my moms' in Encinitas for Christmas. Blah. I hate injuries.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
19,247
713
113
San Francisco, CA
Sunday was blown out and I got bored, so I removed 2 of three fins from one of my board, looked at the board, put in a bigger center fin than the one that was in there when it was 3 finned.

"Been a while since I rode a single fin, I should try that again. You know, stay fresh, reprime the nerves."

Took out that board this AM.

Mistake.

It was pitching with great tubing sections.

Needed to really make that bottom turn or top turn and tuck in for the run.

Not ideal to relearn single fins.

So those late drops had to be nursed a little....and left behind the section.

And again.

And again.

Ooo, straight off again.

Pearl.

Finally on my last two waves, had some fun.

Pro: really quick to get going, not much drag

Con: blown waves in crowded field led to lack of confidence on bigger waves which led to missed opportunities

PS
Peak to the north of me, shows on the outside, caps, backs off, then starts to bowl/wedge into a beautiful reform. A guy chases it, madly paddling, pops up while the wave pitches, mid-face bottom turn, hooks under the lip, then 15-20 feet down the line, drop-in goes, pumping to stay ahead while the guy in the tube closes in, and then the wave goes past my line of sight, and that is the end of it for me, next wave moving into position. Suddenly some motion and shouting. "Get the f$ck out! Go! F#ck you, go to the other end of the beach, get out, motherf@cker!" I tilt my head, turn and understand the words are coming from two people. Not needing to involved myself in something I'm not part of, figure I am out of position for this next wave, but maybe if the set continues to shift over.....lemme paddle a little bit out and then south some....
 
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sushipop

Gerry Lopez status
Feb 7, 2008
1,210
667
113
The Dagobah System
Frrreeeeezing air temps today, but water felt good. Truck’s thermometer said 37’. Rode the log at the local and had fun on a bunch of small ones that ran across the reef. Pushed a little more into my turns and on a few cutbacks. Started to cross step more too. Achilles felt tight, but no pain so that was reassuring. Feet were stumps walking back thru the sand. I guess that acted like icing my ankle after a workout.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
24,481
2,047
113
Tower 13
Frrreeeeezing air temps today, but water felt good. Truck’s thermometer said 37’. Rode the log at the local and had fun on a bunch of small ones that ran across the reef. Pushed a little more into my turns and on a few cutbacks. Started to cross step more too. Achilles felt tight, but no pain so that was reassuring. Feet were stumps walking back thru the sand. I guess that acted like icing my ankle after a workout.
yeah that sand was like walking on needles this morning!
 
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Maz

Billy Hamilton status
May 18, 2004
1,377
480
83
Innzid
Fiiiiinalllyyy!

Last proper swell was 1 November, and it's been dead flat most days since. Yesterday and this morning, though, I surfed my beloved local three times on my 7'6 and then my 6'10. Pumping!
 
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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
2,746
221
63
Malibu, CA
I like to watch surfline cams on a second screen while I work. This group of guys at Waco were having the time of their life today.

 
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ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
239
99
28
Big Asian Island
Went out at the local river mouth this morning, about chest high, glassy with light snow, and tried out some new to me Reactor fins. Not too bad but felt on the stiff side. Waves were lacking power so prob not the best to judge tho. Still a good time none the less
 
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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
2,746
221
63
Malibu, CA
I rode a 6'9" today North of me. Everyone else is apparently a rock star and rode their 5'11's. I had fun on my Cadillac. Made one messy barrel. Felt pretty good about it. Then when I was walking up the beach I saw a guy get a wave that would've been an 8 at pipe today. It made mine look kinda terrible :)