*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
1,873
76
48
Sunday - had a great time surfing right in front of my house in small glassy waves on the fish until I got nailed by a stingray. I think I did call it a faggot, making jkb still the only one last week not to get hated on by a tall skinny guy.

Tuesday - got a bunch of sick overhead glassy ones at Surf City USA Ground Zero until I had to catch a flight to Orlando. I think I called the entire city of Orlando a collective faggot out of spite. Isn't jkb from somewhere around there?

Weds - Saturday - Ate and drank overpriced foods and beverages and entertained clients. Did not see an alligator despite my best efforts. Sat on multiple plane rides home surrounded by screaming children fresh off a Disney junket (Orlando - Minneapolis) or about to go on a Disney junket (Minneapolis - Orange County). Got pissed off at a fat woman appropriately wearing a cow-patterned jacket who was holding up the boarding process by rooting around in her overhead bin and not getting the fook out of the way for about five minutes. Cow lady actually stopped to yell at the guy right behind her for getting impatient. I bit my tongue and did not call her a faggot, so jkb now you have company.

Tomorrow - Hoping to get some of this swell relatively clean in the morning, but I have low expectations.
 

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,913
788
113
Cent Cal
Sunday - had a great time surfing right in front of my house in small glassy waves on the fish until I got nailed by a stingray. I think I did call it a faggot, making jkb still the only one last week not to get hated on by a tall skinny guy.

Tuesday - got a bunch of sick overhead glassy ones at Surf City USA Ground Zero until I had to catch a flight to Orlando. I think I called the entire city of Orlando a collective faggot out of spite. Isn't jkb from somewhere around there?

Weds - Saturday - Ate and drank overpriced foods and beverages and entertained clients. Did not see an alligator despite my best efforts. Sat on multiple plane rides home surrounded by screaming children fresh off a Disney junket (Orlando - Minneapolis) or about to go on a Disney junket (Minneapolis - Orange County). Got pissed off at a fat woman appropriately wearing a cow-patterned jacket who was holding up the boarding process by rooting around in her overhead bin and not getting the fook out of the way for about five minutes. Cow lady actually stopped to yell at the guy right behind her for getting impatient. I bit my tongue and did not call her a faggot, so jkb now you have company.

Tomorrow - Hoping to get some of this swell relatively clean in the morning, but I have low expectations.
:LOL: This is hilarious!

For the record, I'm originally from San Clemente.
 
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teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,296
1,135
113
eastside oahu
With the winds forecasted I had a certain spot in mind. Got there early but it was too big. It was breaking way outside and no energy was hitting the good part of the reef. So I drove to my regular NS spot. Looked good from shore so I took my Moonfish out. Really wanted to try it in overhead waves.

Got out and the current was raging again. It’s usually good on a north swell but there was a bunch of east in it and it was hard to stay in the right takeoff spot. There were some overhead waves and wash throughs. Took a beating duck diving getting caught inside. Moonfish paddles good but hard to duck dive. Haha.

Mostly just went for inside double ups looking for tubes. But got a set that stayed open. Board just flew from deep. Saw a corner and laid into a carve at speed. Was worried it might slide out but the board held and turned hard. I had to cut the turn short to make the next section but it felt good.

It’s funny most of the NS was small with the northeast swell but some mysto spots were pumping. Lots of sand at Pipe. Going to need a big west to wash it off the reef for it to get good again.
 

20W-50 and blood

Duke status
Feb 4, 2004
22,205
210
63
SOCAL
Visit site
a gem, couple ok ones, and handful of "why did i even bother paddling for this wall"s.

surfed a hair south of the detonation zone...watched too many 4-heads-to-a-wave drop ins and a few guys get intimate with pier pilings. made the right call.

at one point paddling over a wave...FOUR FULL size dolphins all blasted out of the back of the wave, the furthest one being maybe five feet away. un FUGGING real.
 

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
1,873
76
48
Update: surfed the HB pier this morning, got some good ones. The stingray sting site on my foot is itching like crazy and it better not be infected.

So many drop-ins. If you were out this morning and heard someone loudly booing burn jobs, that was me.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
8,949
290
83
Oceanside, CA
Thanks amigo. Tore my Achilles tendon at the end of April. Surgery was May 2nd. -1000/10 Would not bang again.
Been “kneeboarding” for a month or so trying to get my arms back a little. Was so stoked when I got the green light to stand up this week. Taking it slow. Prob just gonna rode the log on small days for the next few weeks. I don’t think I’ve ever said “can’t wait for it to get smaller” before, until now.
Glad you're getting back! :shaka:
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
8,949
290
83
Oceanside, CA
Slept in longer than I should have and paddled out into shoulder+ surf that slowly deteriorated the whole time I was
out. DK keel likes cleaner conditions than those on offer, but got 1 decent right and 1 decent left (and some exercise)
that made it worthwhile.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
53,176
1,588
113
The Bar
My wife and I got away from the kids for the weekend to celebrate our anniversary. Stayed on the beach in PB. Great place and cheap. Saturday was chunky but really closed out. Made the deal with her that would go to the December Nights festival at Balboa Park on Saturday but then surf Sunday morning.

At first, thought it was going to be really bad with multiple forecasts saying it was going to be moderately onshore all morning. But woke up and was light offshore. Surf was a little smaller which allowed for a few corners. Although it was about 10:1 closeouts. Only a couple people out up and down beach. Was pretty conservative with wave selection. I brought both my usual 6'6" and a 6'7" roundpin just in case it was bigger. Surfed the 6'6" as it was a couple feet overhead on sets. Didn't really need stepup.

Got three corners that were ok but unremarkable. Glided over top of last one as it closed on the inside. Was in impact zone for remainder of set but got progressively more and more tangled up in that dirty brown/black shredded kelp. Was making no headway and just got lazy and ditched the last couple waves, hoping I could just unwrap all that kelp once I got outside. Alas, that last tombstone with 20 pounds of kelp hanging on leash was enough - board snapped. Avoided the closeouts for precisely that reason. Meant to be I guess. Several hundred (at least) sessions on that board and that's the way it snaps. Sheesh.

Could have grabbed the 6'7" but was just over it at that point.

The real insult to injury was giving my wife a tour of La Jolla later this morning on the way home as she'd never been there and waves were good almost everywhere with relatively light crowds. Absurdly better than where I surfed earlier. Really misplayed that. But bright side is that she loved the area (The Taco Stand was a big sell - so damn good, well worth the line) so will most definitely be making that trek with family for future day trips. Lotsa great tidepools for kids to play around in while I surf.
 

ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
238
93
28
Big Asian Island
This winter has been really good so far. The other day was exceptional. Swell was hitting a semi-secret point break not too far away and wind was forecast to come up through the morning so hit it as early as I possibly could. 8am :ROFLMAO: I got the call from a friend who said that it wasn't too big, prob shoulder to a few feet overhead. Big enough for me and by the time I was suited up and looking at it, it was just my buddy and his friend in the water. The 3 of us traded reeling lefts for 3 hours until we were spent and the wind was too much. Machado moonbeam with the FCS2 Machado 2+1 setup was fire. Cannot get enough of that board
 
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teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,296
1,135
113
eastside oahu
I met Jeannie at Bowls this morning to give her something. There were some small waves so I went out to surf with her. Luckily brought my Moonfish. Everyone said it was bigger yesterday.

Waves were waist high and a little bigger. Nice conditions. Got some little nuggets. Did a nice figure 8 roundhouse to whitewater rebound. The board with the longer rail line and heaps of float works good for that turn. Glad I asked Wade to pull in the nose so it doesn’t get in the way. The Moonfish is turning into a quiver killer. Waist high to a few feet overhead. Still looking for a solid barrel.
 

sushipop

Gerry Lopez status
Feb 7, 2008
1,010
318
83
The Dagobah System
Second and third sessions yesterday and today on the log at the local since getting the green light to surf again. Small, fun runners yesterday. Felt good to trim along on the lefts. A little more size today, but pretty soft with the tide. Felt more confident to push a little harder into my turns, but still taking it slow. Saw a great white breach maybe 200 yards out for the first time ever. Perfect view of its white belly, pectoral fins and tail. Gotta give fluffy credit for hitting it straight vert at 12 o’clock and getting its tail about 2-3’ out of the water—good form. Some peeps saw one last week as well. Pretty surreal.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
8,949
290
83
Oceanside, CA
Second and third sessions yesterday and today on the log at the local since getting the green light to surf again. Small, fun runners yesterday. Felt good to trim along on the lefts. A little more size today, but pretty soft with the tide. Felt more confident to push a little harder into my turns, but still taking it slow. Saw a great white breach maybe 200 yards out for the first time ever. Perfect view of its white belly, pectoral fins and tail. Gotta give fluffy credit for hitting it straight vert at 12 o’clock and getting its tail about 2-3’ out of the water—good form. Some peeps saw one last week as well. Pretty surreal.
o_O

Yesterday had a lot of fun on the VS HPTC longboard, trimming along the rare high-tide peaks that would run a bit.
Today, more swell on the buoy, and took out a fish/groveller that did well, but would have been much better off on the
longboard again as it was less consistent and the random outside sets were not happening. Sunrise was f'ing epic.
 

ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
238
93
28
Big Asian Island
Big swell and most places were closed out. There's only one place I know of that works at this size/direction swell and I hate it. On the way to look was surprised by a spot that never works that came to life. Paddled out and it was actually alright. Head high waves and light offshores. Got caught inside and broke my leash. Luckily the board popped up and over the whitewash and I made it to it before the next wave came. Had a comp leash in the car so switched it out for a few more waves