*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

Oceanslide

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Mar 5, 2008
8,889
145
63
Oceanside, CA
Had an absolute shocker of a session for the first 40ish minutes today...could not do ANYTHING right and
blew 3 really nice looking waves on takeoff. Just full beginner donkey style. Combo of wearing a hood (43degree air),
tight back that's giving me trouble popping up, and just out of sorts had me frustrated. Thankfully I finally got an overhead
right that just reeled off down the beach, then one more shoulder-ish right that also ran that saved the session and
put a big smile on my face. DK keel showed what she's got on those 2 and I look forward to much more time putting
it through the paces.
 

obslop

Phil Edwards status
Feb 4, 2002
6,864
41
48
san diego, CA
Had an absolute shocker of a session for the first 40ish minutes today...could not do ANYTHING right and
blew 3 really nice looking waves on takeoff. Just full beginner donkey style. Combo of wearing a hood (43degree air),
tight back that's giving me trouble popping up, and just out of sorts had me frustrated. Thankfully I finally got an overhead
right that just reeled off down the beach, then one more shoulder-ish right that also ran that saved the session and
put a big smile on my face. DK keel showed what she's got on those 2 and I look forward to much more time putting
it through the paces.
dude. i did some seriously messed up turns today. like WTF was that bruh?

felt great to surf though.
 

rts265

Miki Dora status
Oct 19, 2007
4,550
113
63
Today was humbling. Yesterday surfdogs old spot was firing with bombers coming through and picked off some good ones in addition to taking some grinding ones on the head.

much smaller today, first wave had to work too hard to get into it, funky drop, board hit my calf, was in so much pain got out to make sure not extensive damage. went back out to redeem myself, airdropped into a closeout pit, hurt my neck. limped away in shame. It was a few good weeks run though. time to rest.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,014
302
83
eastside oahu
Watching the contests yesterday got me hyped to get barreled. My NS regular really gets pitty on north and northeast swells. So I dawned it. Everything was in place for it to be epic. N NNE direction light wind small weekday crowd. But it looked weird. When I got out I figured out why. The current was raging. It was messing up the waves. Make double ups flatten out and easy sections close.

There were still some nuggets to be had. But I was either 5 feet too deep or 5 feet too outside. Frustrating. Got a roll in into a double up and thought I was going to get pitted. But the wave flatten out and the barrel got almondy and shut down.

Stayed out just to wait out the morning traffic. But driving back into town to work traffic was still f*cked. People can’t seem to figure out how to drive when it’s raining.

Gonna save my next mental health day for better waves. Haha. Hope you guys are getting some.
 

obslop

Phil Edwards status
Feb 4, 2002
6,864
41
48
san diego, CA
rode my tokoro today for the first time in many months. was hard to get good waves as most seemed to roll and were hard to catch or section off.

board felt good under my feet and was very responsive on the few i caught. finished with a small insider that allowed for three turns. stoke.
 

need 4 speed

Miki Dora status
Nov 1, 2003
4,727
118
63
SoCal
Flawless conditions this morning, artichoke skies made positioning a challenge,less size and consistency from yesterday
A few really good waves mixed in with the section-y walls unloading on the inner bar
Couple good tubes, 2 front side and 1 backside(mark it on the calendar that I made one back side)
6-5 JT 4 channel twinzer(changed fin set from yesterday moving forward 1/2", board like this position better)
 

ZeeHawk

Legend (inyourownmind)
Apr 13, 2018
207
24
18
Big Asian Island
Sunny, shoulder to overhead surf with a lovely chip-in from the outside. Super fast down the line and could squeak in a turn or two at the end if it came together. The sand bars are figuring themselves out and had lefts and rights. A few big lulls but then there were some solid pulses with a few sets in a row. Actually a little tired! BTW the Ghost never felt like it was close to redlining. That thing has some range for such a small board
 

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,616
229
63
Cent Cal
Interesting session at the main spot in my area.

A bald guy was busting 5ft backside airs on a pink railed board with what looked like a Tommy Bahama inspired design painted on the back smoothie section of his wetsuit.

And some skinny guy on a 7ft step-up (waves were 4ft) was trying to pick a fight with everyone. Paddling under people, paddling around people, taking off on the whitewater behind people and calling them off, taking off in front of people. I felt a little left out because I was one of the only ones he didn't call a faggot. :ROFLMAO:
 

Oceanslide

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Mar 5, 2008
8,889
145
63
Oceanside, CA
Pretty burgery and it seems everyone was worried about the runoff, which was probably smart as it smelled
like I was surfing in the middle of a garden. Me and only 2 others as far as I could see, which in itself was
well worth it. Almost all of the waves sucked, but occasionally there would be a bigger peak that would have
at least a little room to pump across and hit the closeout section. Got 4 of those and actually did (for me) some
pretty good snappy turns in/on/under the closeout lip on the Inspired 6'0" with a new-to-me set of Split keels
which feel the best so far in the board. Need more time in better waves.
 

ocean7847

Miki Dora status
Jun 23, 2004
4,702
24
38
the Injured Reserve
...And some skinny guy on a 7ft step-up (waves were 4ft) was trying to pick a fight with everyone. Paddling under people, paddling around people, taking off on the whitewater behind people and calling them off, taking off in front of people. I felt a little left out because I was one of the only ones he didn't call a faggot. :ROFLMAO:
Welcome to Santa Cruz!