*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

Muscles

Gerry Lopez status
Jun 1, 2013
1,046
601
113
California/Hawaii
Paddled out yesterday and was having a great time until some punk college kid does a blatant backpaddle on me. He was literally within arm's reach when he circled around me on his paddle back out to get closer to the peak. I called him on it when he was paddling back out. The following ensued:

Me: Hey, what's with the backpaddle?

Him: This isn't pipeline, no need to be like that.

Me: You're right. Its not. Its two foot wind slop so don't do it.

Him: Who are you. I've never seen you here.

Me: Who da fuq are you?

Him: Where you even from bro. You're not from here. (He says this as he paddles 20 feet away from me and keeps going to get more distance)

The kid proceeded to paddle around the lineup and complain to others who all looked at him like he's an idiot and gave him the "why are you telling me this" face.

Here's the hilarious part. The kid I'm getting into it with is a total haole kid with a Polynesian tribal tattoo. His Dad is a senior military Officer and they're from the East Coast. He has exactly zero ties to Hawaii and hasn't been here for even 10 years.

I've been surfing the spot longer than the kid has been alive. My Uncles paddled out to the spot before the kid's Dad was born. My Grandfather and one uncle had their ashes scattered in the ocean close by. Oh, and I'm a brown skinned born and raised guy who is twice his size

Totally new experience. White guys with Poly tribal tattoos pulling the local card on actual locals. :ROFLMAO: Instalocals.

I just shook my head and laughed at the ridiculousness of it and kept surfing.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,031
426
83
Oceanside, CA
I've been getting severely fvcked in the past couple months with daylight/schedule/family issues killing
my surf time. Serious fatboy aggravated stretch. Came back from Santa Clarita family yesterday to a neighbor walking
up and telling me how good it was in the morning to driving over and seeing negative low-tide windslop,
now rain for days. F me, I hate you all that have been scoring this month. Rant over. :poop:
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,475
1,665
113
eastside oahu
Paddled out yesterday and was having a great time until some punk college kid does a blatant backpaddle on me. He was literally within arm's reach when he circled around me on his paddle back out to get closer to the peak. I called him on it when he was paddling back out. The following ensued:

Me: Hey, what's with the backpaddle?

Him: This isn't pipeline, no need to be like that.

Me: You're right. Its not. Its two foot wind slop so don't do it.

Him: Who are you. I've never seen you here.

Me: Who da fuq are you?

Him: Where you even from bro. You're not from here. (He says this as he paddles 20 feet away from me and keeps going to get more distance)

The kid proceeded to paddle around the lineup and complain to others who all looked at him like he's an idiot and gave him the "why are you telling me this" face.

Here's the hilarious part. The kid I'm getting into it with is a total haole kid with a Polynesian tribal tattoo. His Dad is a senior military Officer and they're from the East Coast. He has exactly zero ties to Hawaii and hasn't been here for even 10 years.

I've been surfing the spot longer than the kid has been alive. My Uncles paddled out to the spot before the kid's Dad was born. My Grandfather and one uncle had their ashes scattered in the ocean close by. Oh, and I'm a brown skinned born and raised guy who is twice his size

Totally new experience. White guys with Poly tribal tattoos pulling the local card on actual locals. :ROFLMAO: Instalocals.

I just shook my head and laughed at the ridiculousness of it and kept surfing.
Man, Muscles you have way more patience than me. I’m a short fat old Asian guy I would’ve been screaming at the kid after burning him. And if he gave me lip back I would see how long he could hold his breath. Haha.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,475
1,665
113
eastside oahu
Tried to dawn the Eastside but the swell dropped and the wind returned to trades. So we checked the cams and went to V-land. There We’re cars from one end of the access to the Sunset Colony gate. My two buddies didn’t have much time so we charged it.

Waves were small a little over head and couple of different swells in the water but the conditions were really nice.

When it’s that crowded I just sit deep and mostly go left. Saw a bunch of friends out that I haven’t seen for awhile so that was nice. Wade Tokoro was out but he had to leave early. He waved but I never got to talk to him before he bailed. Watched him get a couple inside leftS and take them apart on whatever he was riding. Probably a Lemonade. It looked kinda wide.

Got a couple fun lefts that I rode too far and got stuck inside for a minute. Finally just sat in the bowl and went on a couple small rights. Long waits. Split the peak on a double up went left, bottom turned and hit the lip straight up. Happy with that turn so I proned out and went in. My friends were ready to leave anyway.

I hardly go to the beach with someone anymore. So it was fun riding up with a couple guys I grew up surfing with.

Happy Thanksgiving.
 

bigglesworth

OTF status
Mar 8, 2017
326
208
43
Feast of beachbreak at dawn in the PNW. Couple of degrees above freezing as I paddled out. Well overhead on the sets but pretty short period, so each time i milked it all the way to the inside for the wave to stand up again to tag the end section, i payed with long paddleouts and endless duckdives. A lesson i never seem to learn!

Solid 3hr session left me chilly and hungry. Hope everybody manages to get a few this holiday.
 

ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
239
99
28
Big Asian Island
4 good days this week. From a few feet overhead to about shoulder high. The big day was rad. Slopey but powerful. Very snowboard-ish on the early chip-ins. Loving the Machado Moonbeam for the conditions around my area.

Also took out the Pyzel ghost at the local pointbreak last week. What a solid balanced out board. Took a little while to get used to but that thing locks in a solid line and can break off of it in a snap. Futures JJFs have been my fav fin in that board. More rakey fins are cool but stiffen it up too much for my liking.
 

Muscles

Gerry Lopez status
Jun 1, 2013
1,046
601
113
California/Hawaii
Man, Muscles you have way more patience than me. I’m a short fat old Asian guy I would’ve been screaming at the kid after burning him. And if he gave me lip back I would see how long he could hold his breath. Haha.
I had to work to remain calm in the situation. I was actually raging inside but didn't feel like going to jail that day so I just laughed it off. I talked to my friend the next day and we both acknowledged that transplants now days are getting bold. The real local crew all know that it will never be that kids turn in the lineup. He's an instant burn for the rest of his life here.

More importantly, east side surf was fun on Wednesday. Winds let up around 4 pm and the session was filled with head high runners. No hassling from donkey transplants and fun time had by all.

A day late, but Happy Thanksgiving. Now go get some black friday deals.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,031
426
83
Oceanside, CA
Had an absolute shocker of a session for the first 40ish minutes today...could not do ANYTHING right and
blew 3 really nice looking waves on takeoff. Just full beginner donkey style. Combo of wearing a hood (43degree air),
tight back that's giving me trouble popping up, and just out of sorts had me frustrated. Thankfully I finally got an overhead
right that just reeled off down the beach, then one more shoulder-ish right that also ran that saved the session and
put a big smile on my face. DK keel showed what she's got on those 2 and I look forward to much more time putting
it through the paces.
 

obslop

Phil Edwards status
Feb 4, 2002
7,643
834
113
san diego, CA
Had an absolute shocker of a session for the first 40ish minutes today...could not do ANYTHING right and
blew 3 really nice looking waves on takeoff. Just full beginner donkey style. Combo of wearing a hood (43degree air),
tight back that's giving me trouble popping up, and just out of sorts had me frustrated. Thankfully I finally got an overhead
right that just reeled off down the beach, then one more shoulder-ish right that also ran that saved the session and
put a big smile on my face. DK keel showed what she's got on those 2 and I look forward to much more time putting
it through the paces.
dude. i did some seriously messed up turns today. like WTF was that bruh?

felt great to surf though.
 

rts265

Miki Dora status
Oct 19, 2007
5,541
636
113
Today was humbling. Yesterday surfdogs old spot was firing with bombers coming through and picked off some good ones in addition to taking some grinding ones on the head.

much smaller today, first wave had to work too hard to get into it, funky drop, board hit my calf, was in so much pain got out to make sure not extensive damage. went back out to redeem myself, airdropped into a closeout pit, hurt my neck. limped away in shame. It was a few good weeks run though. time to rest.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
3,475
1,665
113
eastside oahu
Watching the contests yesterday got me hyped to get barreled. My NS regular really gets pitty on north and northeast swells. So I dawned it. Everything was in place for it to be epic. N NNE direction light wind small weekday crowd. But it looked weird. When I got out I figured out why. The current was raging. It was messing up the waves. Make double ups flatten out and easy sections close.

There were still some nuggets to be had. But I was either 5 feet too deep or 5 feet too outside. Frustrating. Got a roll in into a double up and thought I was going to get pitted. But the wave flatten out and the barrel got almondy and shut down.

Stayed out just to wait out the morning traffic. But driving back into town to work traffic was still f*cked. People can’t seem to figure out how to drive when it’s raining.

Gonna save my next mental health day for better waves. Haha. Hope you guys are getting some.
 

obslop

Phil Edwards status
Feb 4, 2002
7,643
834
113
san diego, CA
rode my tokoro today for the first time in many months. was hard to get good waves as most seemed to roll and were hard to catch or section off.

board felt good under my feet and was very responsive on the few i caught. finished with a small insider that allowed for three turns. stoke.
 

need 4 speed

Miki Dora status
Nov 1, 2003
4,952
363
83
SoCal
Flawless conditions this morning, artichoke skies made positioning a challenge,less size and consistency from yesterday
A few really good waves mixed in with the section-y walls unloading on the inner bar
Couple good tubes, 2 front side and 1 backside(mark it on the calendar that I made one back side)
6-5 JT 4 channel twinzer(changed fin set from yesterday moving forward 1/2", board like this position better)