*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
7,143
1,163
113
Cen Cal
Got some really fun waves in Kauai. Surfed the premier spot a couple of times, once a little overhead and smaller and the second time a little overhead and building very quickly. Caught some really fun waves on the Burch asym. Perfect for overhead and smaller. Definitely undergunned on the bigger sets.

Also visited my favorite secret spot and surfed it by myself! Really fun trip!
 

Iceman

Phil Edwards status
Apr 1, 2002
6,020
120
63
NorCenCal
Yesterday - big beachbreak peaks. Little sketched out just watching it but convinced when some friends showed up. Glad I went for it. Surfed my 6'6'' for the first time in a while which felt right at home in some 8-10'+ faces.

Today - Went north of town near sunset, long period energy building, right hand reef, inconsistent but got a couple fun ones. Some bigger sets starting to hit that I mostly scrambled out of the way, but managed to snag one to end my session. Tomorrow is probably going to be fun, but I'll be working.
 

Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
6,396
1,879
113
PNW
Today was rad. Spent the morning surfing big high tide right handers on the Rusty Twin as the swell built. Once tide started dropping it got pretty crazy and ripped up so I retreated to the bay and after lunch scored some clean peaks at the break in town. There was a half dozen guys out but they didn't seem to be cluing into how the rip was working so I never really felt like there was any competition for the waves I wanted. Some long lulls and the water/air were chilly but when the waves came they were gems and I was in a good rhythm for most of the session.
 

bluengreen

OTF status
Oct 22, 2018
173
274
63
SF x Encinitas
Surfed the 6'8 yesterday afternoon slightly undergunned as long period energy filled in, but got some fun ones with big drops into fades to set up a racey inside bowl section. Undergunned on the 7'6 today, so I paddled out a little north of the most bombing part of the beach. Got three in a little over an hour. Really peaky, offshore and SOLID. Saw a couple of guys get insane barrels. Really had to be charging out there to pull in. Hopefully the wife will let me return tomorrow.
 

bluengreen

OTF status
Oct 22, 2018
173
274
63
SF x Encinitas
Sunday was the last of an epic four day run. Really started to get more confident and figure out my positioning on these XL days. Got hooted in to my first wave of the session, a thick 12-foot A frame. Go left and backdoor it? Ha! Not there yet. Took the right from just inside the peak for a smooth drop and grab rail wrap on the shoulder. Paddled back out as a pod of dolphins cruised by. sh!t was magic. Two hours later and four waves down, I reached out to paddle with my right arm and felt a pop in my ribs then searing pain. To paddle is to be stabbed in the ribs. Lines start forming on the horizon. I take a chance and paddle in a little, hoping to snag an insider before this set puts me under water. Luckily one comes right to me and I ride it in. Grimacing and overjoyed as I walk up the beach.
 
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MathDebater

Legend (inyourownmind)
Apr 13, 2016
362
199
43
OB/NCSD
Yesterday morning I surfed a typically mellow spot with consistent waves, then the surf couple of the year paddled out and immediately started burning people. I think they had burned everyone in the lineup within 20 minutes, impressively no one flipped out on them but no amount of stern talking to seemed to change their ways, at one point I caught the girls board just in front of my face as she flipped over trying to drop in on me. I lost my mind, where are these people from?

BUT, karma rewarded me. Wind forecast looked good for an evening session, pulled out the dingy to get away from the crowds and was rewarded with beautiful offshore 3-5' waves to myself with an incredible sunset. Stamps Banjo went insane in those waves, my legs are sore today from all the turns. Top 5 boat session and one of my best in general lately.
 

Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
6,396
1,879
113
PNW
Waves been pumping lately. Hard to keep track of my sessions but there's been a few great ones. So sore and beat up. Yesterday afternoon paddled out at pile of rocks to the South of my local. Building swell and dropping tide had me scrambling a few times on my 6-10. Got a couple great lefts. Was really wishing I'd had a buddy to surf with. Tide eventually got too low and started closing out the whole break so I took the next corner in. Exciting but I wasn't satisfied. Salt-dogged it to a more protected spot and got a bunch of fun waves on the Rusty Twin.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
24,381
1,856
113
Tower 13
Just got back from 4 days in N Baja. Waves were really fun and surfed burger to decent reef waves to beachbreas ranging from fun and playful to heavy and throwing. Took my 6'4" blackbird, Stamps GX, Mitsven bonzer egg, and my Stamps Fuse. Rode them all. Double sessions each day so I'm beat. Warm water, tasty waves, good food, and lots of beer. Yew!
 

20W-50 and blood

Duke status
Feb 4, 2004
22,433
425
83
SOCAL
Visit site
I got it with 30 ish minutes before the wind changed. got a few more than decent ones...but man do i suck at slowing down for the barrel. after the wind killed the awesome goodness...still remained more than fun for another hour plus. still in trunks.

oh...that all was after knocking out a fun seven mile paddle. can't pay for days like this. beer ahead.