***Official 2019 Community Surf Journal***

Aruka

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2010
5,663
50
48
PNW
Midday headed south with the low tide and lower expectations. Uninspiring buoy readings notwithstanding the sun was out and there was not a breath of wind so I felt somewhat obligated to cut work early on this fine Friday for a little coastal exploration. Had a sand bar in mind about twenty minutes away but on a whim I checked an old favorite spot that I haven't surfed in over a year. Requires a little drive from the highway and a walk to check it. A sneaky cove with a meandering creek s-turning through the middle of the course sand beach. A rocky headland juts out to the North and to the South a half mile of sandy beach and patchy, rocky reef. Bordering the sandy beach are red clay cliffs, a hundred or so feet tall with spruce trees growing precariously along the edge.

My first impression of the waves from up on top was that it looked really fun and hollow but maybe on the small side. I didn't watch for long, it was definitely good enough for my low standards so I just suited up and grabbed the 6'1" Phantom and my little Banjo fish just in case. I hadn't ridden the Phantom in a long time but it always did well for me in tight little pockets. A real set came through as I was nearing the spot and I realized it was bigger and better than I'd thought. Nothing crazy, just like head high, maybe bigger on the sets but really hollow and thick. I was pretty much frothing out of my skin to get out there and it didn't require much, just a little timing to get past the inside double ups and then a few strokes and I was into the lineup. The water is still really warm and the color and clarity were amazing today.

First couple waves were just drop in, pull in and race until I got gobbled up. Paddling back out I spun and took a look at a double up corner, realized I was too deep and tried to pull back but ended up getting sucked over and rolled along the sand bottom as my board smacked me about a bit. Got a few fun ones after that, couple turns and some cover ups, a few more closeouts. Started to get a better feel for where to sit and which ones to go for. There was some free floating bull kelp and a pretty decent size alder branch floating around the lineup which kept things interesting.

Finally a nice wedging set wave came my way and I got a good entry behind the peak. Pretty much just angled into it and didn't have to do much once I got to my feet. It wasn't the longest or deepest tube but the thing was guttering out in just a couple feet of water and the view from inside was really dang nice. Easy exit into the rip and then on my way back out about thirty seconds later a wide double up shifted to me and I spun on it. Air dropped right into another good tube, came out with a ton of speed and got the best turn of my session. Forgot how much I like this board in these type of waves. The tide was filling in fast and backwash was starting to hinder the opportunities a bit. The sets started to slow up too. I chased corners around for a while before I got a decent enough one to go in on. Just a racer to end section bash.

Overall one of the better sessions I've had in a while at one of my favorite spots to surf. Tomorrow supposed to be similar conditions but with a little more swell. Have a great weekend boys :shaka:
 

Oceanslide

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Mar 5, 2008
8,813
13
38
Oceanside, CA
Midday headed south with the low tide and lower expectations. Uninspiring buoy readings notwithstanding the sun was out and there was not a breath of wind so I felt somewhat obligated to cut work early on this fine Friday for a little coastal exploration. Had a sand bar in mind about twenty minutes away but on a whim I checked an old favorite spot that I haven't surfed in over a year. Requires a little drive from the highway and a walk to check it. A sneaky cove with a meandering creek s-turning through the middle of the course sand beach. A rocky headland juts out to the North and to the South a half mile of sandy beach and patchy, rocky reef. Bordering the sandy beach are red clay cliffs, a hundred or so feet tall with spruce trees growing precariously along the edge.

My first impression of the waves from up on top was that it looked really fun and hollow but maybe on the small side. I didn't watch for long, it was definitely good enough for my low standards so I just suited up and grabbed the 6'1" Phantom and my little Banjo fish just in case. I hadn't ridden the Phantom in a long time but it always did well for me in tight little pockets. A real set came through as I was nearing the spot and I realized it was bigger and better than I'd thought. Nothing crazy, just like head high, maybe bigger on the sets but really hollow and thick. I was pretty much frothing out of my skin to get out there and it didn't require much, just a little timing to get past the inside double ups and then a few strokes and I was into the lineup. The water is still really warm and the color and clarity were amazing today.

First couple waves were just drop in, pull in and race until I got gobbled up. Paddling back out I spun and took a look at a double up corner, realized I was too deep and tried to pull back but ended up getting sucked over and rolled along the sand bottom as my board smacked me about a bit. Got a few fun ones after that, couple turns and some cover ups, a few more closeouts. Started to get a better feel for where to sit and which ones to go for. There was some free floating bull kelp and a pretty decent size alder branch floating around the lineup which kept things interesting.

Finally a nice wedging set wave came my way and I got a good entry behind the peak. Pretty much just angled into it and didn't have to do much once I got to my feet. It wasn't the longest or deepest tube but the thing was guttering out in just a couple feet of water and the view from inside was really dang nice. Easy exit into the rip and then on my way back out about thirty seconds later a wide double up shifted to me and I spun on it. Air dropped right into another good tube, came out with a ton of speed and got the best turn of my session. Forgot how much I like this board in these type of waves. The tide was filling in fast and backwash was starting to hinder the opportunities a bit. The sets started to slow up too. I chased corners around for a while before I got a decent enough one to go in on. Just a racer to end section bash.

Overall one of the better sessions I've had in a while at one of my favorite spots to surf. Tomorrow supposed to be similar conditions but with a little more swell. Have a great weekend boys :shaka:
Best report in a loooong time. Yeeeew!
Shocker crap sesh for me yesterday early, but made up for the bummer with an
epic girls' softball practice with the grom that evening. I'll take stoke wherever I can.
 

deforestcooper

Nep status
Nov 1, 2016
761
7
18
California
www.instagram.com
Midday headed south with the low tide and lower expectations. Uninspiring buoy readings notwithstanding the sun was out and there was not a breath of wind so I felt somewhat obligated to cut work early on this fine Friday for a little coastal exploration. Had a sand bar in mind about twenty minutes away but on a whim I checked an old favorite spot that I haven't surfed in over a year. Requires a little drive from the highway and a walk to check it. A sneaky cove with a meandering creek s-turning through the middle of the course sand beach. A rocky headland juts out to the North and to the South a half mile of sandy beach and patchy, rocky reef. Bordering the sandy beach are red clay cliffs, a hundred or so feet tall with spruce trees growing precariously along the edge.

My first impression of the waves from up on top was that it looked really fun and hollow but maybe on the small side. I didn't watch for long, it was definitely good enough for my low standards so I just suited up and grabbed the 6'1" Phantom and my little Banjo fish just in case. I hadn't ridden the Phantom in a long time but it always did well for me in tight little pockets. A real set came through as I was nearing the spot and I realized it was bigger and better than I'd thought. Nothing crazy, just like head high, maybe bigger on the sets but really hollow and thick. I was pretty much frothing out of my skin to get out there and it didn't require much, just a little timing to get past the inside double ups and then a few strokes and I was into the lineup. The water is still really warm and the color and clarity were amazing today.

First couple waves were just drop in, pull in and race until I got gobbled up. Paddling back out I spun and took a look at a double up corner, realized I was too deep and tried to pull back but ended up getting sucked over and rolled along the sand bottom as my board smacked me about a bit. Got a few fun ones after that, couple turns and some cover ups, a few more closeouts. Started to get a better feel for where to sit and which ones to go for. There was some free floating bull kelp and a pretty decent size alder branch floating around the lineup which kept things interesting.

Finally a nice wedging set wave came my way and I got a good entry behind the peak. Pretty much just angled into it and didn't have to do much once I got to my feet. It wasn't the longest or deepest tube but the thing was guttering out in just a couple feet of water and the view from inside was really dang nice. Easy exit into the rip and then on my way back out about thirty seconds later a wide double up shifted to me and I spun on it. Air dropped right into another good tube, came out with a ton of speed and got the best turn of my session. Forgot how much I like this board in these type of waves. The tide was filling in fast and backwash was starting to hinder the opportunities a bit. The sets started to slow up too. I chased corners around for a while before I got a decent enough one to go in on. Just a racer to end section bash.

Overall one of the better sessions I've had in a while at one of my favorite spots to surf. Tomorrow supposed to be similar conditions but with a little more swell. Have a great weekend boys :shaka:
Epic read! Stoked me out for sure! Wish we had some good waves like that down here. Thanks Aruka. Yewww! :shaka:
 
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jkb

Phil Edwards status
Feb 22, 2005
6,466
41
48
Oceansuck
Midday headed south with the low tide and lower expectations. Uninspiring buoy readings notwithstanding the sun was out and there was not a breath of wind so I felt somewhat obligated to cut work early on this fine Friday for a little coastal exploration. Had a sand bar in mind about twenty minutes away but on a whim I checked an old favorite spot that I haven't surfed in over a year. Requires a little drive from the highway and a walk to check it. A sneaky cove with a meandering creek s-turning through the middle of the course sand beach. A rocky headland juts out to the North and to the South a half mile of sandy beach and patchy, rocky reef. Bordering the sandy beach are red clay cliffs, a hundred or so feet tall with spruce trees growing precariously along the edge.

My first impression of the waves from up on top was that it looked really fun and hollow but maybe on the small side. I didn't watch for long, it was definitely good enough for my low standards so I just suited up and grabbed the 6'1" Phantom and my little Banjo fish just in case. I hadn't ridden the Phantom in a long time but it always did well for me in tight little pockets. A real set came through as I was nearing the spot and I realized it was bigger and better than I'd thought. Nothing crazy, just like head high, maybe bigger on the sets but really hollow and thick. I was pretty much frothing out of my skin to get out there and it didn't require much, just a little timing to get past the inside double ups and then a few strokes and I was into the lineup. The water is still really warm and the color and clarity were amazing today.

First couple waves were just drop in, pull in and race until I got gobbled up. Paddling back out I spun and took a look at a double up corner, realized I was too deep and tried to pull back but ended up getting sucked over and rolled along the sand bottom as my board smacked me about a bit. Got a few fun ones after that, couple turns and some cover ups, a few more closeouts. Started to get a better feel for where to sit and which ones to go for. There was some free floating bull kelp and a pretty decent size alder branch floating around the lineup which kept things interesting.

Finally a nice wedging set wave came my way and I got a good entry behind the peak. Pretty much just angled into it and didn't have to do much once I got to my feet. It wasn't the longest or deepest tube but the thing was guttering out in just a couple feet of water and the view from inside was really dang nice. Easy exit into the rip and then on my way back out about thirty seconds later a wide double up shifted to me and I spun on it. Air dropped right into another good tube, came out with a ton of speed and got the best turn of my session. Forgot how much I like this board in these type of waves. The tide was filling in fast and backwash was starting to hinder the opportunities a bit. The sets started to slow up too. I chased corners around for a while before I got a decent enough one to go in on. Just a racer to end section bash.

Overall one of the better sessions I've had in a while at one of my favorite spots to surf. Tomorrow supposed to be similar conditions but with a little more swell. Have a great weekend boys :shaka:
Awesome story!

What are your thoughts on the shadow vs the phantom? Is there quite a bit of overlap there or a do both have their place?
 
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silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
23,101
36
48
Tower 13
love Aruka stories.

Looked worse today but actually had far more and better waves today. Fuse is pretty stinking rad. As I get older I see myself spending more time on boards like this. Definitely fishy but very refined and high performance. Felt good to actually do a fair amount of actual surfing today.
 

Aruka

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2010
5,663
50
48
PNW
Awesome story!

What are your thoughts on the shadow vs the phantom? Is there quite a bit of overlap there or a do both have their place?
My Shadow is 6-3, Phantom 6-1. There is definite overlap which is why I haven't been riding the Phantom much since I got the Shadow. The Phantom is kind of a funny one because it looks pretty stubby like a GX or other step down groveler but it really doesn't grovel that well. Like if the waves are mushy and/or weak I would grab something else. That said, if there is a little pocket or some steepness it gets up and goes a little faster than the Shadow and carries that speed down the line and over flat spots a little better. I need to ride them back to back in the same conditions but one thing I noticed yesterday was how much speed I was able to carry on a wave that split in two on the inside and I was able to pump over the angled lump, connect to pretty much this whole other wave and bash the oncoming section. I think that would have been tough on that wave riding the Shadow.
 
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retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
15,857
35
48
Quick dip at my not secret anymore sandbar #2 . lots of bobbers so no worries

Good pack of familiar faces sharing the select peak
Otf's boy was out and surfing very well . clicked a big air in front of me paddling out and it made me laugh thinking of when he was a grom in a baggy wetsuit learning to bottom turn and I did the same thing to him

Got a dozen good ones in a short time and called it a day . short period hurricane swell sure is fun

Griffin wing swallow truster is bomb
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
2,910
47
48
eastside oahu
Surfs about the same size but more wind and more south. Got a couple of fun ones. All the regulars were out. It gets loud. If I wasn’t a regular it would freak me out.

I paddled over to the Big Bowl where Wade Tokoro was patiently waiting for the occasional bomb. He asked me if there was a fight. I said no just a bunch of loud Hawaiians. One of the uncles and his sons were burning each other and making a racket. Hahaha
 

Aruka

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2010
5,663
50
48
PNW
Obviously it's too much to expect similar conditions to produce similar surf two days in a row here.

Slightly bigger, maybe a little more South in the swell? Regardless it was just closeouts up and down the beach. Drove in circles for an hour before paddling at a different spot to surf what appeared to be cornering wedges but was in reality pretty much just closeouts as well. My stubborn ass chased the peaky mirages up and down the beach for about two hours with my only reward being a few short lived tube views followed by violent beatings on the shallow sand bar. Still, the water was warm, the sun was out and a dead whale or some other large deceased creature was floating a ways outside the lineup as seagulls and who knows what else fed on it.

After my hundredth closeout barrel I accepted defeat and left the water to hike back up the tall, near vertical sand dune to my truck. As I stood at the top by the highway, my legs and lungs burning I looked back down at the ocean and watched a beautiful left corner peel through, hollow and glistening. And then a right hander did the same across the channel that had apparently formed in the time it took me to climb the cliff...

The ocean hates me.
 

Havoc

Michael Peterson status
May 23, 2016
1,807
28
48
in da hood next to paradise
Obviously it's too much to expect similar conditions to produce similar surf two days in a row here.

Slightly bigger, maybe a little more South in the swell? Regardless it was just closeouts up and down the beach. Drove in circles for an hour before paddling at a different spot to surf what appeared to be cornering wedges but was in reality pretty much just closeouts as well. My stubborn ass chased the peaky mirages up and down the beach for about two hours with my only reward being a few short lived tube views followed by violent beatings on the shallow sand bar. Still, the water was warm, the sun was out and a dead whale or some other large deceased creature was floating a ways outside the lineup as seagulls and who knows what else fed on it.

After my hundredth closeout barrel I accepted defeat and left the water to hike back up the tall, near vertical sand dune to my truck. As I stood at the top by the highway, my legs and lungs burning I looked back down at the ocean and watched a beautiful left corner peel through, hollow and glistening. And then a right hander did the same across the channel that had apparently formed in the time it took me to climb the cliff...

The ocean hates me.
dude aruka u shud right sum of dis chit in a book. literary
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
23,101
36
48
Tower 13
windswell popped but it pretty much sucked. Couple here and there but I really couldn't find waves. Blew a nice left that held me up, went over the falls, then my board hit me in the head causing a nice bump and small cut. FML

Out for a week, hope ya'll get some.
 

teeroi

Michael Peterson status
Oct 21, 2007
2,910
47
48
eastside oahu
14B84763-621E-40B9-BA71-C04551E4CD15.jpeg

Surfed the dawn patrol at the regular. We’re expecting south east swell from TS Akoni. But it’s still trying to fill in. We were getting S, SW, SE swell all mixing in. There were some weird waves but some nuggets too. The texture on the water was really nice. Got some fun ones then got in a bad rotation. Was going to go in but a couple uncles came out and chased the crowd in. Stayed out a little longer and got a couple more really good ones. Last wave I was kinda deep so I paddled in at an angle, got moving pretty fast and carved a wrap in a bowly section kept pushing it until the tail slid. Unweighted the back foot and came back around. Laid down prone and went in. Stoked on that last turn.

Mike Ho and Kaimana Henry we’re out first light. Aaron Napoleon came out a little later. Some serious ripping to be seen.

The pic is of Matt. Matt’s a fireman and a dawn patrol regular. It’s what we see paddling back out after getting a wave in the morning.

More south swell to come. Great end to summer.
 
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Oceanslide

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Mar 5, 2008
8,813
13
38
Oceanside, CA
Random morning. Slept in a bit and saw swell on the local buoy. Brought the Mandala Superchunk I haven’t surfed since the Mex trip in June, and...it was kinda firing, albeit random, for about an hour+.
Best part was that there were only 4 people out. Got a solid handful of overhead lurchers with steep drops and fast walls...and more solid somersault’s and cartwheels underwater than I’ve had in quite a while. Lost a Velcro strap watch for good measure.
Crowd filled in and everything sorta went to crap, but fun as for a bit.
 

Aruka

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2010
5,663
50
48
PNW
Rad pic and report teeroi.

South winds and off and on rain today. Didn't really expect much in the way of surf so just worked around the house until mid afternoon when I started to feel the itch.

Wind readers said less wind to the South so I drove that way and check a few spots that can usually handle a little wind. Nothing special, mostly just kind of weak and messy looking. Almost called it and turned around but instead drove out to a sneaky spot that I haven't surfed in a while. Wind was more favorable and I saw a few fun looking waves roll through in the first couple minutes. The rain had backed off so I decided to take the opportunity to get changed before the next squall passed through. Waxed up an old 6'4" Stamps Scarecrow squashy and hit it.

First couple waves kinda mushed out and then a squall came through and the conditions got pretty gross for a while. Drifting around in the grey rain, the ocean a formless mess, I had that sinking feeling that I might have made a mistake. The water was warm though and so I just kinda spaced out and floated around until the wind abated. A few peaks came through and I got a couple rights. Board felt a little long and I didn't get my foot all the way back for my first turn. The second turn was better and the next wave I surfed pretty well from start to finish. The next one I got an early entry and bottom turned around the first section and jammed it in the pocket as potts would say. That was pretty much all I needed for a successful session, the rest was gravy. Stayed out for a couple hours total and the conditions steadily improved although it never exactly became focused in one spot so a lot of chasing was involved. The 6'4" actually felt great even though the waves weren't much over head high. There was a couple closeout hits where I felt like the nose was going to dig on the reentry but it never did. Going to go longer on my next couple customs I think.

The spot I was surfing is out in front of a cool little neighborhood with some nice and some funky little beach houses right along the cliff. The one access road basically dead ends at the cliffs edge with just a couple concrete barriers blocking the way. I always just park there at the dead end between two houses but I never really knew if it was kosher or if I was going to get flack for it some day. Today when I was unsuiting an older guy came out of his driveway and gave me a little wave so I went over and introduced myself. He was the owner of that house and while him and his wife had owned it for twelve years they had been renting it and were just recently remodeling it to move in. He was super nice and he asked how I had gotten down to the beach so I showed him the tricky little trail and warned him about the slippery mud near the bottom. We talked fishing for a bit, realized that we knew a few of the same people and he gave me permission to park in front of his place any time. Stoked.