Nice drop in

moby

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 10, 2010
494
213
43
I got one of the best barrels of my life burning someone. It was decades ago. I ran into someone I knew in the water in Hawaii and he brought the wave up and told me it was one of the most insane tubes he's ever seen. I didn't even know he saw it. He's been living in the islands for a long time now. After a stint as a Fiji boatman.

I'd do it again.

(y)
 

santacruzin

Miki Dora status
Oct 17, 2007
5,379
1,380
113
valley purgatory
I used to get waves by burning people who burned someone.

After a while it just didn’t feel right.

Plus, people would burn me. It seemed like the tactic worsened the problem.
That one backfired on me!
My buddy Mike is a notorious burn artist. He loves to backpaddle too.

As a result I burn him ALOT. One day he had gotten me pretty bad, decided to paddle around me for the next set.

I roasted the sh!t out of him and he got pitched hahah, waves were not consequential.

White night down the line returns the favor to me. He thinks my buddy is going to have his back and ends up with two guys yelling at him for his drop in.


"But you dropped in on him"

Yea hes my buddy and I owed him one!

:roflmao:
 

santacruzin

Miki Dora status
Oct 17, 2007
5,379
1,380
113
valley purgatory
"Do you remember that wave in 1982 that you snaked me on? I owed you."
In 2003 Mike paddled like he was going left then went right on a wave I wanted, It was perfect wave but if I burned him we would have gotten hurt.

I still think about that wave and if I could have stuck the drop in time to avoid him hahahaha

Bouymaker probably has some "Mike" stories too hahahaha
 
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llilibel03

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Jul 28, 2005
8,113
2,369
113
I used to get waves by burning people who burned someone.

After a while it just didn’t feel right.

Plus, people would burn me. It seemed like the tactic worsened the problem.
Happened to me at, of all places, First Point Malibu. Guy drops in on another guy, so I drop in. And, of course, two guys drop in on me. So I'm the middle surfer of five going down the line. And then there's a guy paddling out. I have a choice of straightening out or running him over at full speed. So I straighten out. The guy behind me collides into me and when we emerge from the chaos he's screaming at me. Oh well...