my foray into Reddit r/surfing community

HarryLopez

Phil Edwards status
Jan 17, 2007
6,190
59
48
Neck deep
Whenever I get pissed at adult learners crowding the lineup, I realize that they will never get good and they don't know why. You want to know why adult learners and all these free spiritual bros will never get good? It's because they never sat on the inside like a grom and WATCHED good people surf a whole wave. They always want to get out to the peak and get a set. Not realizing that a fundamental part of becoming a good surfer is watching a good surfer ride a wave. They have no patience for that.

Remember when you were a grom and you'd see some of your older favorite surfers on a wave? In hindsight they might not have been that good, but they did something interesting and you watched. And you learned. Adult learners can't grasp that - they think it's like any other sport and you just jump out there and learn. Nah buddy, you gotta study.
+1 Great post. Spent the late 70s and early 80s watching from the inside from Kaisers to Bowls to 3s to Full Point to, well, every spot on Oahu. It taught me a lot about surfing and how to not get slapped!
 

MitchellC

OTF status
Nov 28, 2016
236
34
28
living where there's surf is expensive and it now attracts a certain type of person.
Good observation. Ever wonder why all the power plants, sanitation facilities and transportation hubs (rail, sea & airports) are by the coast/water? Or, for that matter why all the original missions are set back (miles) from the coast?

Because when they were originally established and built out, almost no one lived at the beach. No readily available fresh water, salty, non-fertile soil, etc. Rather, it was the preserve of blue collar seafaring/shipping/fishing labor + second vacation homes of wealthy patrons from Pasadena. So, the land was cheap, and no one cared about ugly mega-facilities taking up hundreds of worthless sand/swamp/scrub acres.

For example, I knew a guy in Manhattan beach whose parents had bought their original house in the 50s. All their family and friends felt sorry for them since they couldn't afford a nice place in Inglewood. For one, in the days before freeways, it was a long assed drive on surface streets to get to work. For two, the person swore that it used to be foggier back then, so the weather wasn't as nice.

Anyway, obviously the entire situation has now basically reversed. And like all gentrification processes taking place, the old guard is disregarded as the new owners quietly hope they either move or die off.

In reality, crusty old and aging surfers are viewed no differently then inner city minorities. The higher tax basis, lower crime rate makes the new money attractive to local gov't, so they get the support & protection. Maybe Mr Doof can add some perspective of how this process works in SF.

From the stand-point of r/surfing, they are the future, as is any new generation anywhere doing anything. From the standpoint of surfing, it doesn't really matter whether people think/act entitled, or what they wear or ride. It only comes down to whether or not they can surf, and thus compete for the best waves. In many situations, it can actually be a benefit, because while it may look/feel crowded, there's still only a core group who's actually controlling the session.

So, grump away - my wife calls older, sunburned & overweight surfers "walruses". You know, belly distended, so their back is arched up and they bellow in frustration as they gasp for air. My take: stay in shape, eat healthy, stay in the game, stay quiet, observe and maintain good paddling strength. Do that, and who gives a sh!t what anyone else is doing?
 

Waterlogged05

Nep status
May 14, 2005
681
159
43
Sometimes I post there too balance out the kook ness, steer people away from Pop outs

Someone posted a Pic of Margo getting vertical in Nias and a comment was all "he probably got worked no way he could make that"

I was thinking have you ever seen Margo, or AI or anyone like that surf?


One guy on there has a few cool self shapes with a marlin logo.
 

jamesgang

Michael Peterson status
Aug 9, 2006
3,545
136
63
Location Location
Whenever I get pissed at adult learners crowding the lineup, I realize that they will never get good and they don't know why. You want to know why adult learners and all these free spiritual bros will never get good? It's because they never sat on the inside like a grom and WATCHED good people surf a whole wave. They always want to get out to the peak and get a set. Not realizing that a fundamental part of becoming a good surfer is watching a good surfer ride a wave. They have no patience for that.

Remember when you were a grom and you'd see some of your older favorite surfers on a wave? In hindsight they might not have been that good, but they did something interesting and you watched. And you learned. Adult learners can't grasp that - they think it's like any other sport and you just jump out there and learn. Nah buddy, you gotta study.
I never thought of it that way but it is so damn true.
 

Waterlogged05

Nep status
May 14, 2005
681
159
43
That's so funny about the adult learner.
Posted before about my skate guru friend trying to surf.
Guy shreds the large bowl, works out day after day and couldnt make it past the 1st or 2nd sandbarr on a waist high (if that) day.

Mental block?
Fear of sharks?
Perplexed me
 

Muscles

Nep status
Jun 1, 2013
780
151
43
California/Hawaii
From the stand-point of r/surfing, they are the future, as is any new generation anywhere doing anything. From the standpoint of surfing, it doesn't really matter whether people think/act entitled, or what they wear or ride. It only comes down to whether or not they can surf, and thus compete for the best waves. In many situations, it can actually be a benefit, because while it may look/feel crowded, there's still only a core group who's actually controlling the session.
And that's all that matters. Whether you're good enough to earn your spot and get waves.

Last year I was out on one of the best days of the winter at my local and the lineup was packed. But, if you watched closely the same 10 people were consistently taking waves while the 50 or so others were buoys and scrambling for their life.
 

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
18,518
471
83
Check out the front foot surfer thread. Pics or it didn't happen. And about 300 yards to the sand
Dude that’s 300 yards closer to the beach than GromsDad!

I live 30 yards from the sand, 20 yards of that are the Zona Federal which would be like the mean high tide line in the US.

I shred the gnar. Check the post a picture of yourself surfing thread.