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My first pilgrimage to Mecca
- Thread starter Lakookaracha
- Start date
AC and they built a pool
Gonna be a blast, looks like there may be 10 of us now. 6 non surfers
Excited to see the crew at shadow. Introduce my gal to Ade and Laura and meet their kiddo!
some really good waves nearby.
A really really good right that's semi heavy and has a hell of a barrel
a really hollow left
a aframe with a rip panel right and a bendy left
then all the classic playground waves.
Gonna be a blast, looks like there may be 10 of us now. 6 non surfers
Excited to see the crew at shadow. Introduce my gal to Ade and Laura and meet their kiddo!
some really good waves nearby.
A really really good right that's semi heavy and has a hell of a barrel
a really hollow left
a aframe with a rip panel right and a bendy left
then all the classic playground waves.
Looks perfect but I have a feeling a lot of us would be terrified
what boards you riding @Truth Hansel’s still?
yes and just picked up 2 more for big scar reef
good shaper
Just got back, first timer and expectations were sort of met. I think for me the limiting factors were a combination of new breaks, crowds, reefs, power and in that order...Oddly I didn't find the reefs to be that much of a deterrent and didn't suffer any real consequences, how I don't know took some crazy tumbles, but the crowd factor with people that clearly had the places dialed in and could shred left me shoulder bound somewhat frequently. Nonetheless, great time, you can see that the more go back and learn the breaks, the better/more comfortable you could get.
-and did score some good ones, not like Truth's, but solid Bank Vaults.
-and did score some good ones, not like Truth's, but solid Bank Vaults.
Attachments
Sick wave.
Did you visit any "b-grade" waves. and if so, how were the crowds there?
Thanks man!
Yeah, hit the more comfortable spots, 4Bob's in particular, which was great, had a number of days with larger swell than normal, was there on May 28th when that "real" swell arrived that all the influencers are posting, watched from the boat at Kandui, sick waves that day.
The crowds at 4Bob's were up and down and mostly good etiquette, pretty short wave, but by the end of the trip felt so comfortable there, would say "my home break"
One of the larger days at 4Bob's
Dang, solid.Thanks man!
Yeah, hit the more comfortable spots, 4Bob's in particular, which was great, had a number of days with larger swell than normal, was there on May 28th when that "real" swell arrived that all the influencers are posting, watched from the boat at Kandui, sick waves that day.
The crowds at 4Bob's were up and down and mostly good etiquette, pretty short wave, but by the end of the trip felt so comfortable there, would say "my home break"
One of the larger days at 4Bob's
View attachment 182750
Did you find you needed reef booties? That's one thing that concerns me, foot cuts take the longest to heal. Haven't surfed reef too many times.
I did find the need for them, washed in at Nipussi, had to make my way back out walking over the reef for a bit, very happy I had them on!
And I surf in New England so I am pretty much always in booties, so I don't mind them at all and feel way more confident with them on. I'd say roughly 50% of the guys who did not wear them paid some sort of price. That one kick to get back up onto your board to paddle out, after a wipeout/ride and you whack your foot...agree feet cuts/issues while surfing no bueno...I brought two pair came close to getting one ripped off my foot a few times.
went no bootys for my first couple days at mcaronis.. got chopped up pretty good. its just if you dont make a wave, an theres one behind it - youll be on the reef in most places in shin deep water with no where to go. you gotta train yourself to not push off the bottom. starfish, then scramble up your board.
after a couple days, popped the booties on. towards the end of the trip was just doing one bootie on my back foot. IMO good to have and say its about 50/50 people wearing them versus not.
that was my mindset the first couple days - no booties, no hat - cameras are rolling. then those first few annoying cuts, sunburn on the top of my head etc - i got over looking cool very quickly.next trip I will take them off for photo Days though