More foam bad in slower/softer waves?

rts265

Phil Edwards status
Oct 19, 2007
6,190
1,307
113
I’ve embraced the foam in the last few years. Finally admitted / recognized my kookiest moments are in slower softer waves that have a bit of size. Think head high on a fat tide.

feel like I’m floating too much. Could just be that I suck? Finally connected a few when I slowed myself down to match the waves.

good excuse for a new board?
 

rts265

Phil Edwards status
Oct 19, 2007
6,190
1,307
113
It is a serious question though. I’m finding more volume is fine in faster waves and am wondering if I could lose some in mush. It seems like backwards thinking...
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
38,638
27,969
113
6’6 Cymatic should do the trick.

That new Tokoro Firewire says it’s for beginner to advanced surfers. You’re probably in that range somewhere.

Hope this helps.
 

rgruber

Miki Dora status
May 30, 2004
3,617
1,327
113
Boards that I like best in slower, fatter waves:

Lost Bottom Feeder, wide, flat, not too thick. Think wetted area instead of volume.
7'0 Egg- on the narrower side with foiled rails.

In general I feel like you can't really look at volume in the abstract. It's more about foam distribution. Simply thickening a design doesn't in my experience make it work better in smaller waves or even paddle better. Often it just makes it sit higher in the water without improving either paddling or surfing ability. Lower rocker and wider (in general) at same volume works better.

That said I think younger, more skilled and more energetic surfers simply use their better wave boards and work harder to get up to speed.
 

rts265

Phil Edwards status
Oct 19, 2007
6,190
1,307
113
Did way better on my Zippi this morning. Maybe need to get some more pu/poly boards in the quiver lol
 

flyinraptr

Michael Peterson status
Dec 18, 2008
2,804
1,444
113
San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua
It's more about foam distribution.
Excellent point - i have one board that i think is an example - SlaterDesigns Omni - has a lot of foam but majority of the foam is in the first 1/3 of the board and it is foiled significantly at the rails. One of first things i noticed about it was the deck was convex versus being flat. I think this is essentially how they were able to add more foam but keep the rails thinner.
 

surfwhere

Gerry Lopez status
Aug 5, 2008
1,300
460
83
Norf Cackalacka
Visit site
I’ve embraced the foam in the last few years. Finally admitted / recognized my kookiest moments are in slower softer waves that have a bit of size. Think head high on a fat tide.

feel like I’m floating too much. Could just be that I suck? Finally connected a few when I slowed myself down to match the waves.

good excuse for a new board?
Fat waves, tight pocket if they are slow. Easy to have volume push you past point of no return. Try surf off tail sooner than later. Just inch or two too long make that hard if trying performance style cut vs fish/lb fade. Or slow down like you said and enjoy glide. Then learn push glide harder harder. Some rip this style but if looks of outline don't fit it then psyche is a challenge. Then new board. If outline fit you can try fin configs to help slide you in place as look for answer in learn adjust style to waves. My fave waves for feeling like on skateboard but that's me. How you want to surf? Was the Zippi the board you were talking about in the opener quoted above?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: rts265

rts265

Phil Edwards status
Oct 19, 2007
6,190
1,307
113
Original post I was on a hp eps quad. Been on Zippi last couple days and having a blast
 

feralseppo

Billy Hamilton status
Feb 28, 2006
1,469
1,125
113
Hanel Bonzer Egg goes good in the South Bay dog shite you surf in. This one is 7'2" x 21 3/4" x 3 3/16." No problems with the extra foam. Switched out the Bonzer fin for a Kidman/Parmenter and its the goods.

20190914_102554.jpg20190918_073958.jpg20190914_103132.jpg