Mental Health thread

mundus

Duke status
Feb 26, 2018
38,899
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Its been brutal down here for three weeks. Was 52* a couple days ago. 3/2 most days. Short arm full barely cutting it others.
As a kid on LBI I remember a summer with constant south winds, water was in 50s entire summer.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
71,125
25,466
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The Bar
Fucking hell... the universe doesn't want me to surf. I got a nasty reaction on my left eye during the night (I think it was an allergic reaction because it got better but I thought it was conjunctivitis ... it felt like I had a piece of glass in there), fuck fuck fuck. Couldn't go and I'm so fucking pissed I could murdered someone.

Gonna try again tomorrow when it's semi flat fuck fuck fuck.

Fuck life...
I know the feeling. The longer it is between surfs, the more the desperation sets in along with the increase in expectations. There's pressure and then for whatever reason, things get fucked. And it's a pisser because you've been fiending for that sesh. I get it way too well.

It's a mental shift. Expect nothing. Just have the mentality that you're going to get in the water no matter what. And if it's flat/shitty, paddle from one point to another (don't get eaten). Have a back-up plan for when expectations aren't met and let your wife know that hey, give me some time to work things out if Plan A is in the shitter.

Hope the eye gets better.

I may have fucked up by not surfing over the 4th holiday as apparently it was good. Everyone was frothing though apparently since it's been shithouse for the last several months. In my case, backup, ok primary, plan lately has been running. Over 1,000 miles on the year so far.
 

brukuns

Tom Curren status
Mar 5, 2014
10,768
6,085
113
Sao Paulo/Brazil
I know the feeling. The longer it is between surfs, the more the desperation sets in along with the increase in expectations. There's pressure and then for whatever reason, things get fucked. And it's a pisser because you've been fiending for that sesh. I get it way too well.

It's a mental shift. Expect nothing. Just have the mentality that you're going to get in the water no matter what. And if it's flat/shitty, paddle from one point to another (don't get eaten). Have a back-up plan for when expectations aren't met and let your wife know that hey, give me some time to work things out if Plan A is in the shitter.

Hope the eye gets better.

I may have fucked up by not surfing over the 4th holiday as apparently it was good. Everyone was frothing though apparently since it's been shithouse for the last several months. In my case, backup, ok primary, plan lately has been running. Over 1,000 miles on the year so far.
Thanks Kento. I put some ice in it during the night, it got better. Still hurt during the morning but it stopped after a while, now it's just red as fuck.

But it was pretty fucked during the night, I was afraid it was going to get worse. I'm glad it didn't. I'll try to get that session tomorrow but it's not gonna be easy... first light is after 6am and I have a meeting at 9... I'm right by the beach but it's huge and the waves break on the other end, it's a 20, 25 minute walk on the beach. Today was supposed to have been the day... oh well. Maybe a 1 hour session will be better than nothing, Saturday it's gonna be flat.

IMG_6364 (1).jpeg

IMG_6365.jpeg
 

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
14,124
11,807
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LBNY
big house was clean and sort of pumping. Fun to surf real waves again.
Get to our airbnb - cops. Long story short. Somehow someone floated a super elaborate scam listing that fooled Vacasa and Airbnb both. Listing and details, all the instructions- perfect. However. The owner only uses VRBO

We booked through airbnb so they are refunding, but, now we’ll see if they make it right and get us another pad for 10 days. In the hamptons. In July. lol. I see arrivin back to Long Beach by Sunday (we have a place we can crash until then.

I’ll be surfing big rock at sunrise (my girls brother in law has some bucks, and owns one of those trailers at ditch. They offered us to use their pad a few nights when they heard we got scammed

the we’ll see what airbnbs “make good” is.

Weird night. My new found mental health took it in stride.

tomorrow morning should be head high and off shore at sunrise
 

Will there be snacks

Miki Dora status
Mar 18, 2011
5,273
3,875
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Hotel Coral Essex
Its been brutal down here for three weeks. Was 52* a couple days ago. 3/2 most days. Short arm full barely cutting it others.
Dang. Does that cool the air off at all? Been hot as ballz.

It's been a long time ago, but I remember surfing one May with water in the 50's and the air in the 90's. Sand was scorching and it would make your feet itch going from cold to hot.
 

brukuns

Tom Curren status
Mar 5, 2014
10,768
6,085
113
Sao Paulo/Brazil
Just got back from the water... feels good.

Wave conditions were really shitty, physical conditions even shittier. I said I'd be happy if I could take off on a single closeout... well, that's precisely what I was able to do, on a shitty wave with just enough power to let me in. Can't really complain, possibly 3 years out of the water, no training whatsoever. It could have been much worse.

Now I want to get back in shape to be able to have a slightly better session. Probably gonna paddle around a bit this weekend just to get a bit of a head start than figure out some sort of training back home.
 

brukuns

Tom Curren status
Mar 5, 2014
10,768
6,085
113
Sao Paulo/Brazil
Really cold too for our standards... that plus my own current weak physique, felt like trying to paddle in a dream and your arms will barely move. It's a miracle I actually managed to take off on one... at least I can still identify the peak.
 
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0cean_1

OTF status
Jun 7, 2023
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home
Thanks Kento. I put some ice in it during the night, it got better. Still hurt during the morning but it stopped after a while, now it's just red as fuck.

But it was pretty fucked during the night, I was afraid it was going to get worse. I'm glad it didn't. I'll try to get that session tomorrow but it's not gonna be easy... first light is after 6am and I have a meeting at 9... I'm right by the beach but it's huge and the waves break on the other end, it's a 20, 25 minute walk on the beach. Today was supposed to have been the day... oh well. Maybe a 1 hour session will be better than nothing, Saturday it's gonna be flat.

View attachment 186000

View attachment 186002
Did you give anybody the STINKEYE? :cool:
 

Will there be snacks

Miki Dora status
Mar 18, 2011
5,273
3,875
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Hotel Coral Essex
Just got back from the water... feels good.

Wave conditions were really shitty, physical conditions even shittier. I said I'd be happy if I could take off on a single closeout... well, that's precisely what I was able to do, on a shitty wave with just enough power to let me in. Can't really complain, possibly 3 years out of the water, no training whatsoever. It could have been much worse.

Now I want to get back in shape to be able to have a slightly better session. Probably gonna paddle around a bit this weekend just to get a bit of a head start than figure out some sort of training back home.
Glad you got that 3 year monkey off your dang back. :shaka:

Now go start a "do any of you losers even surf anymore" thread. Milk that session for all its worth!
 

santacruzin

Tom Curren status
Oct 17, 2007
11,131
15,342
113
valley purgatory
Just got back from the water... feels good.

Wave conditions were really shitty, physical conditions even shittier. I said I'd be happy if I could take off on a single closeout... well, that's precisely what I was able to do, on a shitty wave with just enough power to let me in. Can't really complain, possibly 3 years out of the water, no training whatsoever. It could have been much worse.

Now I want to get back in shape to be able to have a slightly better session. Probably gonna paddle around a bit this weekend just to get a bit of a head start than figure out some sort of training back home.
Dang bru hope you can get some more reps in!
 

SurfFuerteventura

Kelly Slater status
Sep 20, 2014
9,327
5,550
113
Donut hole
Thanks Kento. I put some ice in it during the night, it got better. Still hurt during the morning but it stopped after a while, now it's just red as fuck.

But it was pretty fucked during the night, I was afraid it was going to get worse. I'm glad it didn't. I'll try to get that session tomorrow but it's not gonna be easy... first light is after 6am and I have a meeting at 9... I'm right by the beach but it's huge and the waves break on the other end, it's a 20, 25 minute walk on the beach. Today was supposed to have been the day... oh well. Maybe a 1 hour session will be better than nothing, Saturday it's gonna be flat.

View attachment 186000

View attachment 186002

:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

“You lookin at me?
You must be lookin at me,
Cause there ain’t nobody else in here!”

T. Bickle - out


IMG_0216.jpeg
 
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