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Melancholy Memories

groovn

groovn

Kelly Slater status
Jan 16, 2002
9,929
60
48
The North Coast
Sometimes, it's hard to even grab onto the images. Boat trips out to the breaks around the Channel Islands. Heavy reefs in Costa. Long, reeling rights off the Queen of the Coast. I've only had a 20-year surfing 'career' and yet some of it is so far faded it can feel like a dream. Surfing powerful lake waves, dodging great chunks of ice. Paddling out beside guys in 20lb ice beards - things that were once energizing and inspiring - now feel daunting. My wetsuit didn't fit this year. I'm fat. I'm an OFL. I'm officially an Old Fat Longboarder..... and hell, this year I haven't even surfed.

Now and then some news will come along, shake me up a bit. A connection to those memories will open and clarify with such potency that I can't overlook them. I can feel them. The news of our friend OTF pulled me into those images and feelings this morning. Into the web of connections and love and experiences and 'family' and the times and moments with great people... that fabric of interwoven hearts.

I'm blessed by all those things. If you read this and feel it - then you know what I'm talkin' about. If you read this and don't..... then may you one day.

Peace-n-Sweet Waves, All

~groovn~
 
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crustBrother

crustBrother

Kelly Slater status
Apr 23, 2001
9,238
5,374
113
groovn said:
Sometimes, it's hard to even grab onto the images. Boat trips out to the breaks around the Channel Islands. Heavy reefs in Costa. Long, reeling rights off the Queen of the Coast. I've only had a 20-year surfing 'career' and yet some of it is so far faded it can feel like a dream. Surfing powerful lake waves, dodging great chunks of ice. Paddling out beside guys in 20lb ice beards - things that were once energizing and inspiring - now feel daunting. My wetsuit didn't fit this year. I'm fat. I'm an OFL. I'm officially an Old Fat Longboarder..... and hell, this year I haven't even surfed.

Now and then some news will come along, shake me up a bit. A connection to those memories will open and clarify with such potency that I can't overlook them. I can feel them. The news of our friend OTF pulled me into those images and feelings this morning. Into the web of connections and love and experiences and 'family' and the times and moments with great people... that fabric of interwoven hearts.

I'm blessed by all those things. If you read this and feel it - then you know what I'm talkin' about. If you read this and don't..... then may you one day.

Peace-n-Sweet Waves, All

~groovn~
Click to expand...
Peace.
 
M

mundus

Duke status
Feb 26, 2018
37,110
16,214
113
groovn said:
Sometimes, it's hard to even grab onto the images. Boat trips out to the breaks around the Channel Islands. Heavy reefs in Costa. Long, reeling rights off the Queen of the Coast. I've only had a 20-year surfing 'career' and yet some of it is so far faded it can feel like a dream. Surfing powerful lake waves, dodging great chunks of ice. Paddling out beside guys in 20lb ice beards - things that were once energizing and inspiring - now feel daunting. My wetsuit didn't fit this year. I'm fat. I'm an OFL. I'm officially an Old Fat Longboarder..... and hell, this year I haven't even surfed.

Now and then some news will come along, shake me up a bit. A connection to those memories will open and clarify with such potency that I can't overlook them. I can feel them. The news of our friend OTF pulled me into those images and feelings this morning. Into the web of connections and love and experiences and 'family' and the times and moments with great people... that fabric of interwoven hearts.

I'm blessed by all those things. If you read this and feel it - then you know what I'm talkin' about. If you read this and don't..... then may you one day.

Peace-n-Sweet Waves, All

~groovn~
Click to expand...
Getting old sucks but sure beats the alternative.
 
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SrPato

SrPato

Miki Dora status
Jul 12, 2005
4,982
1,311
113
San Buena Ventura
groovn said:
Sometimes, it's hard to even grab onto the images. Boat trips out to the breaks around the Channel Islands. Heavy reefs in Costa. Long, reeling rights off the Queen of the Coast. I've only had a 20-year surfing 'career' and yet some of it is so far faded it can feel like a dream. Surfing powerful lake waves, dodging great chunks of ice. Paddling out beside guys in 20lb ice beards - things that were once energizing and inspiring - now feel daunting. My wetsuit didn't fit this year. I'm fat. I'm an OFL. I'm officially an Old Fat Longboarder..... and hell, this year I haven't even surfed.

Now and then some news will come along, shake me up a bit. A connection to those memories will open and clarify with such potency that I can't overlook them. I can feel them. The news of our friend OTF pulled me into those images and feelings this morning. Into the web of connections and love and experiences and 'family' and the times and moments with great people... that fabric of interwoven hearts.

I'm blessed by all those things. If you read this and feel it - then you know what I'm talkin' about. If you read this and don't..... then may you one day.

Peace-n-Sweet Waves, All

~groovn~
Click to expand...
Still in the 805? Check your msgs.
 
groovn

groovn

Kelly Slater status
Jan 16, 2002
9,929
60
48
The North Coast
Thanks, SrPato!! I'm not in the 805 unfortunately. And hey, not depressed and sure as hell haven't given up on life. It was one of those mornings though where the weight of the loss of a friend, the weight of my own mortality, kinda just moved me to share. And I'll get my ass back out there yet. Just you watch. :)
 
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Subway

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
13,517
10,162
113
LBNY
Groovn suits up and shows up and spreads a lot of good into the world, I aim for the same.
 
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Leaverite

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Dec 19, 2017
7,924
1,092
113
Central Cal
groovn said:
Sometimes, it's hard to even grab onto the images. Boat trips out to the breaks around the Channel Islands. Heavy reefs in Costa. Long, reeling rights off the Queen of the Coast. I've only had a 20-year surfing 'career' and yet some of it is so far faded it can feel like a dream. Surfing powerful lake waves, dodging great chunks of ice. Paddling out beside guys in 20lb ice beards - things that were once energizing and inspiring - now feel daunting. My wetsuit didn't fit this year. I'm fat. I'm an OFL. I'm officially an Old Fat Longboarder..... and hell, this year I haven't even surfed.

Now and then some news will come along, shake me up a bit. A connection to those memories will open and clarify with such potency that I can't overlook them. I can feel them. The news of our friend OTF pulled me into those images and feelings this morning. Into the web of connections and love and experiences and 'family' and the times and moments with great people... that fabric of interwoven hearts.

I'm blessed by all those things. If you read this and feel it - then you know what I'm talkin' about. If you read this and don't..... then may you one day.

Peace-n-Sweet Waves, All

~groovn~
Click to expand...

You are not alone bro.
 
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