Mason Ho - Big Board

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,140
23,045
113
PNW
6'9" x 18.63" x 2.38" x 31.18L Whiplash

We all love Mason because he shreds at such a high level, rides all sorts of different boards and always looks like he's having fun. He's not a big guy but the way he maneuvers this big board in not exactly small but definitely not life threatening waves is super impressive.
 

GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
54,768
16,654
113
West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
Back in the late 80s and 90s the norm was to ride boards that were a few inches taller than your height. My typical dimensions being 6'1 tall were usually 6'4 x 19.5 to 6'6 x 19.75. Back then most average surfers and ripping locals did not have quivers of boards. The one board quiver was pretty much the rule of the day so the goal was to have a board that worked in all conditions and if you were a real charger you might have a step up board or a gun stashed away and perhaps a log. These days most 13 year old local rippers have full quivers that would rival or surpass 90s tour pros.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Mason rips. No surprise he knows how to ride a 6’8. Most North Shore surfers ride longer boards during the winter. You’ll see them out on smaller days testing out new boards. I told Kainoa McGee I saw a pic of him putting a 10’6 Waimea board straight up on a 2 foot wave. He told me he didn’t want the first time he rode that board to be 25 feet.

Ive always had 2-3 longer boards up to 8’0 just in case, starting in the 80’s. I just kept them longer.

I worked for Local Motion in the 80’s and top pros would get a winter quiver of 6-8 boards. I remember going for an afternoon surf with the company delivery van then dropping off 6 of those Easter egg colored Rawsons to Glen Winton at Pipe. He was staying at Gerry’s house.

But back then those were hand shapes. Top shapers and their ghost shapers could only make so many boards in a day. Now it’s easier to make a huge quiver with the cnc cut blanks.
 

GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
54,768
16,654
113
West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
On topic - I used to have a 6’10 semi/mini-gun. It sat and sat and I eventually traded it off for a daily driver type. Eventually got another 6’10 but it’s an egg. Gets used a lot more often.

Agree with Duffy - I really enjoy a morning session on one board and the afternoon session on another.
I had an absolutely beautiful Dick Brewer 7'6 mini-gun. I did the same thing.......traded it in after only riding it a couple of times. Its one of only two boards that I have serious regrets about selling off.
 

racer1

Tom Curren status
Apr 16, 2014
12,966
15,053
113
Honolulu, Hawaii
Sometimes I'll take my 6'6 Ghost out when it's chest high, just to remember what if feels like so when I ride it in proper size surf it feels familiar. At first the board feels so huge, but then you get used to it. Kinda fun actually.
 
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waxfoot

Michael Peterson status
Apr 21, 2018
2,096
4,047
113
I think people on this forum are an anomaly.

Most guys I know still have 1 or 2 boards they use regularly, myself included.
Somewhat related, but I find that there's a weird unintuitive relationship between not surfing, and buying more boards.

We get a lot of flat spells and just plain long periods of dire surf here where I live. It's those times of the year I'm looking at buying step ups, grovelers, fish, asyms and what the fuck ever else is on the market. It's most likely due to the itch of surfing that doesn't get scratched and replacing it with the dopamine hit of buying a new board.
For example, I'm looking at a 6x6x6 glassed 6.7" dedicated quad step up, yet, it's not been over 1-2 foot for weeks :p

When the waves are good or at least fun for long periods, then I'm not even looking at any boards to buy.
 

frontsidegrab

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 4, 2014
1,448
1,546
113
I was out on a crappy waist high day watching Nick Lamb surf a 9' gun the next peak down.

Sometimes you just gotta ride a different board. You know, because, why not, man?
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,226
10,427
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Somewhat related, but I find that there's a weird unintuitive relationship between not surfing, and buying more boards.

We get a lot of flat spells and just plain long periods of dire surf here where I live. It's those times of the year I'm looking at buying step ups, grovelers, fish, asyms and what the fook ever else is on the market. It's most likely due to the itch of surfing that doesn't get scratched and replacing it with the dopamine hit of buying a new board.
For example, I'm looking at a 6x6x6 glassed 6.7" dedicated quad step up, yet, it's not been over 1-2 foot for weeks :p

When the waves are good or at least fun for long periods, then I'm not even looking at any boards to buy.
Good observation.

When it's really small, no board really "rips."

When the waves are good, just about any board "works."
 
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