Makua VLOG

What_it_Do_Baybeeee

Gerry Lopez status
Mar 28, 2010
1,002
71
48
CA
It's crowded and everybody surfs pretty good - like they can all position well, take late drops, get barreled, do turns. So, yeah, it's competitive. And with the whole world rotating through during the season at some point you just have to say "sorry I don't know you" and go.
There are plenty of average spots (by NS standards) that are way better than 90% + of the breaks in SoCal. I used to surf certain spots and be the only person out or there would be handful of people.

Now I am stuck in overcrowded closeout beach break purgatory.
 
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Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,596
3,597
113
California/Hawaii
If you think you are going to hop off a plane and get a wave like that at Pipe you are delusional. Sooooo many people would have burned that guy. Derek Ho would have burned that guy. Eli Olson. Hell, I can think of a lifeguard or two who might have done it. Maybe you could have better luck at Rockies. Maybe.
Koa's insta said he waited for two hours only to have that guy backpaddle him. I would have burned him too.
 

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,514
8,550
113
Just watched part of an Italo VLOG about Pipe. Lots of entourage[1], lifestyle[2] and clowning[3]. Spastic editing and gay gym hip hop/butt rock. No comment on the tattoos/Slim Shady hair. Turned it off.
[1]
(penultimate brobrah)
1609805187922.png
[2]
(you can't leave stuff like this out of an edit :shameonyou: )
1609805104975.png

[3] No comment.
1609805048962.png

now I understand what @youcantbeserious was saying.
 
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VonMeister

Duke status
Apr 26, 2013
20,251
6,976
113
JOE BIDENS RAPE FINGER
Koa's insta said he waited for two hours only to have that guy backpaddle him. I would have burned him too.
Koa lives there. He surfs there from the beginning of the season to the end...several times a day. It doesn't matter if your from town or New Jersey. If you aren't there at pipeline day in and day out or already have a rep, you get scraps. The good news is every once in a while scraps stand up and go wide open. I don't know who it was in the video but either wasn't paying attention or was hoping for the best.
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
38,641
27,980
113
If you think you are going to hop off a plane and get a wave like that at Pipe you are delusional. Sooooo many people would have burned that guy. Derek Ho would have burned that guy. Eli Olson. Hell, I can think of a lifeguard or two who might have done it. Maybe you could have better luck at Rockies. Maybe.
Haha, no sh!t. A couple locals come out here and visit every year (sponsor obligations) in the summer for a week or two and they usually get in some training with us. One of them was telling me I should come out and stay with him (pretty high in the order at Backdoor) and he’d take me to some spots to make sure I was welcome.

I asked about getting a wave at pipe/backdoor and he flat out said ‘no, can’t do that’.

Was just very matter of fact about it. I appreciated it.
 
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ghostshaper

Phil Edwards status
Jan 22, 2005
6,244
2,869
113
1134
Koa lives there. He surfs there from the beginning of the season to the end...several times a day. It doesn't matter if your from town or New Jersey. If you aren't there at pipeline day in and day out or already have a rep, you get scraps. The good news is every once in a while scraps stand up and go wide open. I don't know who it was in the video but either wasn't paying attention or was hoping for the best.
That's fine.

But the problem is that these same guys will travel somewhere and expect to be top of the pecking order wherever they are (e.g., indo), and then give interviews about respecting locals at their home spots.

My buddy getting burned by JOB also said that Koa is one of the nicest/mellow pros he's hosted, BTW.
 

vanrysss

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 25, 2019
1,630
3,670
113
from Oregon, now SD
But the problem is that these same guys will travel somewhere and expect to be top of the pecking order wherever they are (e.g., indo), and then give interviews about respecting locals at their home spots.
Everyone wants more waves, these guys just have more tools than the rest of us to get them. Pros can drop in on people all over the world, and they might get called out in a handful of places.

I haven't paddled out at Sunset since before Christmas. Either the waves or the crowds have been too nuts for my tastes. Watched Kemper burn five people in a row the other day.
 

HarryLopez2

Legend (inyourownmind)
Sep 11, 2020
498
652
93
I've been that burned guy WAY MORE than I wanted, although 60-70% of those burns left me looking at a Brazilian chicks a$$, cursing them before getting exploded. Worth the ride!
 

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
3,930
3,700
113
So it's about right of way, who's entitled to the wave, when it's the preferred person dropping in.

Then again, it's about safety, and lives being on the line out there, if the other person is dropping in.
 
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racer1

Tom Curren status
Apr 16, 2014
12,922
14,981
113
Honolulu, Hawaii
Sometimes you're out there for so long without getting a wave that you just have to go. You're either burning somebody or you know you're going to get burnt so you just go and hope for the best.

That said, lots of other waves to surf that are fun and less crowded.
 

Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,596
3,597
113
California/Hawaii
That's fine.

But the problem is that these same guys will travel somewhere and expect to be top of the pecking order wherever they are (e.g., indo), and then give interviews about respecting locals at their home spots.

My buddy getting burned by JOB also said that Koa is one of the nicest/mellow pros he's hosted, BTW.
I really don't care if someone burns me and owns it. I can respect the hustle.

But, if you burn me and I come to exchange words then you can't claim to be a victim. Two times in the past year some dumb transplant blow ins stuffed me and then acted like I was being mean and picking on them when I called them on it.

"Bro relax it's not that serious"

"Don't need to be a dick about it. It's whatever"
 
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