Long Term Surf Injuries

JLW

Billy Hamilton status
Jul 7, 2004
1,665
62
48
They're so shitty. But I'm really the only one to blame. Basically, I've had ankle issues (on my left ankle, I'm goofy so it's my back foot) for probably 5 years. Nothing serious. Just minor annoyances. This finally caught up to me in early 2020. I surfed through it like always, but right around May or June, things really took a turn for the worse. I went to a physical therapist and things improved, but still not enough to surf....

What I have is a high ankle sprain. It takes FOREVER to heal. The fact that I ignored this minor injury for so many years has made it a way bigger issue than it should have been. I went to a doctor at the beginning of October. He basically said that it will take up to 3 months for it to heal. In the meantime he told me to do lots of lower body exercises to get it strong. While not ideal, I figured, "well, all things considered it's not too bad. I'll still get to surf for most of the winter."

We're now in January and it's been firing. I have surfed a handful of times, but honestly it's done more harm than good with the ankle, so I stopped. I can probably longboard, but I think I still need to wait it out to be able to shortboard. I'm hoping not too much longer.

This marks probably the least amount of time I've ever surfed in a one year span. The fact that I'm stuck inside like everyone else really makes things feel way worse. I can't go surfing, which is pretty much the only outlet I have that I can still do cuz of COVID.

I'm not really asking for advice or anything. If you have any, I'm willing to listen. But really this is just more of a rant. I hope you guys are scoring.

On the bright side, it's been so obnoxiously crowded that I feel like I'm not missing out quite as much. I've surfed Ocean Beach SF a handful of times on the big firing days (taped my ankle up) and it was PACKED. I had no idea so many people were willing to eat sh!t and paddle out for 40 minutes just to catch two waves. The points down south are even worse, although I have noticed a handful of days that looked manageable and really fun.

Word to the wise: if you have an injury, take care of it early. It might mean 2 weeks or a month out of the water, but it's a hell of a lot better than almost a YEAR out of the water.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,192
7,512
113
not sure what i did to my neck but its constant pain for years
hips hurt when i walk too much
hit a big crack and face planted on my skateboard 2 months ago, wrist still hurts, especially when i use it for surfing
 

JLW

Billy Hamilton status
Jul 7, 2004
1,665
62
48
I've had chronic knee and back and shoulder issues as well, but as others have mentioned, they sorta come and go.
 

Truth

Phil Edwards status
Jul 18, 2002
5,919
3,457
113
make sure you have a good mattress and pillow

living in the land of cement bag pillows and springy mattresses have taken its toll

also R I C E when injured - be proactive
 

feralseppo

Billy Hamilton status
Feb 28, 2006
1,469
1,126
113
In 1997, I was hit by a car that ran a stop sign while on my bike. Launched in the air and landed on my face. Fractured the C5 vertebrae. Paddling strength has never been the same. Surf more than two hours and it’s excruciating pain the whole time. No disc space between the C5-C6 vertebrae. I may just resort to deadlifts.
 

JLW

Billy Hamilton status
Jul 7, 2004
1,665
62
48
I gotta read the fucking book again
Are you having injuries that you think might be related to stress?

I had a lot of back injuries that were almost certainly stress related. That Sarno book is a godsend.

I could be wrong, but I don't think that this particular injury is stress-related. Who knows, though. I guess I shouldn't rule it out.
 
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grapedrink

Duke status
May 21, 2011
26,210
14,978
113
A Beach
IMO a big reason why people never recover from injuries is because of poor movement patterns. Daily life and movement is inherently assymetrical, which causes us to favor certain sides of the body for different tasks, which is made worse from chronic injuries. In turn other muscles and tendons will overcompensate and tighten up. That's why these injuries persist for so long, because it's tough to fix the movement patterns that keep bringing back the pain.

For lumbar back/upper hip pain, the 90/90 stretch variations have done more for me than anything, but I have to do them regularly to keep the pain at bay.
 
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ShiverMeTimbers

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Mar 21, 2006
8,341
995
113
Gig Harbor
www.peistcharters.com
My right shoulder has been a bitch for 20+ years. Being a side sleeper, shitty posture while at the computer and holding a mouse, and bench press I roll the shoulder forward.

My hips have been tight forever. Sacrum moves around more than it should. I'm basically tight everywhere you don't wanna be. Then about 10 years ago my right ankle started clicking after pushing down too hard while turning my board.

I relied on my kinesiologist chiro to keep me moving rather than doing the hard work. With Covid I've had to do more of the hard work. Its not that hard. Being consistent is hard.
 
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One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,237
10,436
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Left shoulder and neck ( I think from the head flip coming out of a duck dive) chronically sore. Lower back since last year.

Right now I'm nursing a cut (14 stitches ) I got 4 weeks ago. I think they took the stitches out too early because the skin was not bonded ad the cut opened in couple spots. It was starting to heal and I thought I got to start excercising again. So I started deadlifting and what not and the next day I noticed the cut opened up again.

:cursing::cursing::cursing:

I'm using butterfly bandages now, but it seems like I'm again back to square one. :cursing::cursing::cursing:
 
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hammies

Duke status
Apr 8, 2006
15,611
14,264
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A bad back will keep returning like a plate of bad enchiladas. For years and years it seems.
 
Jul 4, 2006
52
51
18
New England
Have you tried surfing with a brace? I played soccer up through my early 30's and towards the end I had some pretty severe ankle issues (chronic sprains, arthritis, bone spurs...). One of my last major injuries was a full dislocation of my left ankle (think Gordon Hayward) in addition to a fractured leg. Once the bones and ligaments were healed well enough, I found a brace like this (https://www.donjoyperformance.com/anaform-lace-up-ankle-brace) worked really well at stabilizing my ankle enough to run and cut pretty hard. It's nylon and while you'd probably want to wear a booty over it (maybe an old, stretched out one), or a suit you don't mind the bottom of the leg getting junked up a bit from the Velcro, but I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work for any style of surfing, including short boarding.

Don't bother with the sleeves or compression socks, those aren't going to keep your ankle in line with your leg. However, the one I linked that laces tight and then does a figure-8 with two straps that get locked across the top will keep your ankle nice and tight. You should still be able to get enough control and function to surf; I bet you wouldn't even notice it after a few waves. Something to think about.
 

McHatin

Nep status
Apr 11, 2010
856
316
63
^
I suffered a fractured foot combined with a high-ankle sprain a few years back, and when it finally healed enough to gain the strength and mobility to let me surf, I surfed with an ankle brace for almost 2 months. I went from a really stable and beefed up one like the Donjoy brace above and transitioned to a less restrictive strapped velcro one, then to a thick compression one, then was able to finally leave it off when I got comfortable.