Kookiest locals???

Swallow Tail

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 6, 2017
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Your Mom’s House
Yes - it’s long gone. I saw it ocassionally break - but a shitty version of its formercself; still bad form IMO.

guess I just come from a different era. very fortunate to have been around at places that were more or less “pre-localism” because there just weren‘t that many people around.Even then - still didn’t go blabbing to people about spots- even to certain segments of my surfing friends - & then that changed for the worse as things always seem to do. It‘s a shame. A sandbar could light up, you keep your mouth shut n then might have it empty for quite awhile. There were places with no names, no landmarks, no public (even for townies) parking that would light the fck up and would have it literally empty.. for years. I’d bet a cookie that one in particular is still like that; a very long barreling setup- in eastern Suffolk county but not in any town named in this thread.


my first trip to CA was in the winter of 1989. I was 18 with my parents to Carlsbad. Felt like we were going to surfing Mecca,I was so excited before leaving- then so surprised how much I disliked everything surf related about it - and there was a decent run of clean overhead swell, surfed a number of place, some outside of Carlsbad. Didn’t realize how good I had it at home - even w the cold winters and long flat spells.

Fortunate to be in an area where the waves are good, lots of em and some real gems that cam be had uncrowded.

-Grumpy older guy out
 
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ghost_of_lewis_samuels

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Oct 27, 2019
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A sandbar could light up, you keep your mouth shut n then might have it empty for quite awhile. There were places with no names, no landmarks, no public (even for townies) parking that would light the fck up and would have it literally empty.. for years. I’d bet a cookie that one in particular is still like that; a very long barreling setup- in eastern Suffolk county but not in any town named in this thread.
Fortunately there are many setups that are like this today - not difficult to get great waves alone for the willing.
 

Truth

Miki Dora status
Jul 18, 2002
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I'll get CK to send you a promo kit. :cheers:
I never get to surf with those guys as they are usually drinking in the lot (post surf) by the time I get down there, but the BMC guys I do know are all good guys - CK is the man!
 

Swallow Tail

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 6, 2017
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Your Mom’s House
Calm ya nipples, The spot literally does not exist anymore.
No fcking sh!t. incidentally- right around the corner on a large day a girl got sucked out, her dad “swam” out to save her -she was saved but he drowned. lifeguards swimming around the lineup, hovercraft flying around. Very sad; dont remember what year that was…


Keep Clogging your own lineups- no skin off my nose- haven’t been in the area for a long time
 
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Swallow Tail

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Oct 6, 2017
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No fcking sh!t. incidentally- right around the corner on a large day a girl got sucked out, her dad “swam” out to save her -she was saved but he drowned. lifeguards swimming around the lineup, hovercraft flying around. Very sad; dont remember what year that was…


Keep Clogging your own lineups- no skin off my nose- haven’t been in the area for a long time
Calm ya nipples, The spot literally does not exist anymore.
Your name’s John Kelly isnt it. Junior?
 

Swallow Tail

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 6, 2017
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Your Mom’s House
i was referencing spots & ZONES.

& you’re right I shouldn’t be getting my man pants in a bunch, gonna go do some deadlifts to work off this extra energy.

glad to hear you‘ve saved people.
 
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Subway

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Dec 31, 2008
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LBNY
Naming spots and and descriptions of areas - perfect for a thread on kookiest locals. You’ve won, well done!
I deleted that last post for you, but I wasn’t “naming spots” I was talking ing about a distant era across a 20 mile stretch of beach, I’m hardly drawing a road map to well guarded secrets. They’re all almost always dumping crappy chopped up close outs. But that’s what I grew up surfing for the most part.

I promise you, the influx of new residents and adult learners currently inundating those towns is far more impactful than a post on the internet talking generally about the vagaries of surfing a fairly large area with not really much to say for itself expect when you do get lucky with some random sand bar. Those aren’t secret spots, those are usually just a lucky few hours that aren’t see again at whatever random stretch of beach you happen to stumble upon.
 
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Eimeo

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Oct 18, 2005
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That one seems a case of so many locals no one knows whose a local.

The fights between locals are the best.

Lots of funny stuff witnessed there.
There is still a regular crew there that knows who is who, we all got assigned a number as part of the OB jetty crew but it has definitely been diluted with lots of newer faces in the last few years. And yes, hilarious acts that occur there, more so than just about any other spot I have witnessed.
 

Swallow Tail

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 6, 2017
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Your Mom’s House
I deleted that last post for you, but I wasn’t “naming spots” I was talking ing about a distant era across a 20 mile stretch of beach, I’m hardly drawing a road map to well guarded secrets. They’re all almost always dumping crappy chopped up close outs. But that’s what I grew up surfing for the most part.

I promise you, the influx of new residents and adult learners currently inundating those towns is far more impactful than a post on the internet talking generally about the vagaries of surfing a fairly large area with not really much to say for itself expect when you do get lucky with some random sand bar. Those aren’t secret spots, those are usually just a lucky few hours that aren’t see again at whatever random stretch of beach you happen to stumble upon.
I‘m definitely over-eggy about this stuff. Part of it comes from putting in the time to find, and figure out spots and being bummed that this now seems to be the exception, rather than the general practice of surfers. That practice and effort always been part of the joy of surfing for me. I should just keep my trap shut n be happy that I still get to surf good to excellent waves - mostly uncrowded or even solo quite often.


kookiest locals ever:
pros that blow up their own spot(s)

bonus points to said pros that then complain about crowds at said spot(s)


Honorable mention: All the locs in the political forum ; )
 
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mundus

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I‘m definitely over-eggy about this stuff. Part of it comes from putting in the time to find, and figure out spots and being bummed that this now seems to be the exception, rather than the general practice of surfers. That practice and effort always been part of the joy of surfing for me. I should just keep my trap shut n be happy that I still get to surf good to excellent waves - mostly uncrowded or even solo quite often.


kookiest locals ever:
pros that blow up their own spot(s)

bonus points to said pros that then complain about crowds at said spot(s)


Honorable mention: All the locs in the political forum ; )
My favorites are the guys who insist on surfing crowded spots, then bitch about it. "Wah! Someone burned me at Swamis"