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jersey pals, help a brother out
- Thread starter Subway
- Start date
5 am departure. wow, paddled out at a semi secret spot. all to myself. 8-12 feet on the biggest sets, perhaps bigger. 14 feet at 14 seconds on the buoy, just 20 miles offshore. Non stop sets, few lulls. Off shore, breaking WAY the fuck out out there, no channel. Tow teams were taking FIFTEEN minutes just to navigate the shorepound and outside sets back in town, just to get past the impact zone. I paddled, alone, under a beautiful warm-ish rising sun (water and air mid 40's), for about 20 minutes, just getting hammered, then 10 minutes back up sweep to try and find some sort of lineup. Ha. silly me. Paddled for the first one, after regaining my zen after a 30 minute pounding to make the outside. Well, i paddled for the first wave in a set, wind held me up in the lip, and got demolished by the rest of the set. washed into the cove. said fuck it, now there are 2 guys watching from the bluff, and i paddle out again., Another 20 minutes to lineup, grinding and duckdiving the whole time, even let out a few primal screams (this actually works), and another 10 up the sweep to the peak. some sets big a frame mush-burgers, some hitting the rock reef just right and GRINDING. So, i finally let myself rest a few (remember i haven't surfed in 4 months) and see a gem coming at me, maybe i'm a little too far inside, but fuck it, i'm on my 6'1, i'll make it. Psych. Yanked over the falls and demolished by the entire set. at this point, an hour of paddling and abuse had gone by, and i considered it like a spin class, but for my paddling, with waterfalls being dumped on your head every 15 seconds or so. And went in, checked a few other spots (wind was weird at the point, and everywhere else too big) and drove home. An hour of high intensity paddling and battling, zero waves ridden, and i'm not even upset. it was yuge, and nobody else was even attempting where i at least made it out twice. Would have been nice to get one bomb, but i did not have a 3rd 30 minutes of hard paddling and duck diving in me.
Had a rough outing myself yesterday afternoon, longish paddle out, strong current. Back on the fitness train for me.
fitness as far as lungs, heart rate, stamina, were solid for a an hour. in a 5 mil, in 14 at 14 energy. an hour was all i had in me...Keep in mind these were shot from a bluff 30 feet high...
time to lay off the stationary bike and hit the pool young man, it'll keep you in decent paddle shape for the days when you guys actually get waves
Meh, I swam for years, didn’t do nearly as much as just staying in great cardio fast twitch flexible shape and losing weight. this was a paddle out that would humble and reject even some serious underground guys. towing 20 foot + outer beach break a few miles away. I saw plenty check where I was, even for this sort of not well known spot, and as far as I know, I was the only one to make it to the lineup and even attempt a couple set wave take off, brisk offshores on a 6 1. 6 9 would not have been out of place.
coming off a shitty Long Island winter and then ear drill, I was not at peak, but I battled for a solid hour before finally calling it. It was big, and just non stop. No lulls, a little bit of a rip coming out but not much speed to it, and sets breaking across it, etc. lot of guys drove to my hometown from where I was, to get smaller more manageable size