15 years ago, a hurricane swell hit overnight. The forecasting gurus were calling for it a day later. Checked it at 0 dark hundred, called a friend, suited up and paddled out. I was by myself for about an hour, shoulder to head high, mildly inconsistent. A father and son paddled out on long boards and both burned me in 5 minutes. I told the father he should teach his son manners. He let me know his son was “on the tour”. After a few more heads paddled out, I split and got a long board. i paddled back out on a 9’6” and had a great time just fvcking up their waves. The father asked me if I had a problem with him and his son. I told him No, just giving them back what they gave me. A look of confusion crossed his face. I asked him if he remembered me from earlier, again a puzzled look. i let him know I was the short boarder that they burned when there wasn’t a crowd. The bummer is that neither of them learned anything from that encounter. Maybe it’s a longboard thing of being further out, or first up. Still a memory of really good waves before my session was interrupted.
