Issue speed generation on new board

[Mat6920]

Just got a new board in eps, wave slave from Stacey to be exact https://staceymfg.com/products/wave-slave-og-phantom-phlex-eps

Love the board, paddles extremely well, light as the Firewire construction, for smaller waves it s so agile but and it s a big BUT, I find it really hard to generate speed and pumping down the line !! Feels like there s an anchor attached to it, never fell that before, it feels like it doesn't want to build the speed and it s very frustrating

I ride the neo glass performer in large, supposed to be good in weaker smaller wave, never had issues with those fins.

Talked to the surf shop about it, after telling him about it he asked me what other boards I rode before (rocket v3, fever, DX1, OG flyer, Neckbeard, Pyzalien and other twin fins) he reckons that those boards have a fairly good amount of foam upfront, even thou the stacey has a fairly wide outline, it s a thin board upfront and I m putting too much pressure on the my front foot to generate speed, that I should instead push through the fins to create that momentum. Any thoughts on that or tips or someone having similar experience? It s true that to pump I use the rails and push hard on my front font, not really using the fins (my back foot often time lands in front of the pad or on it but not that far back).

Is that a fin issue maybe? Neo glass having too much flex ? (but not an issue on other boards) I bought some PCC reactor to see if that template will help. The board has a wide tail, low rocker, flip in the tail

I m 6'1 185 pounds, board is 6'0 20 2 1/2 32.7L. Surfing Sydney beachies

 

[LifeOnMars]

archer not the arrow, aim higher my friend

 

[freeride76]

I have that board....first surf I experienced those issues.

It felt very, I mean very un-drivey and under-finned.

I then put in some hand foiled twins and a trailer and the board came to life.

one of my very favourite boards for small, weak surf and I also had a ball riding it in small waves in the Ments

try big, big side fins. ala twin plus trailer.

I reckon that wide tail with a lot of tail flip needs a lot of fin area to drive it.

 

[Mat6920]

Yewww you made my day ! I thought about trying it with twin and a trailer but then I was thinking it would be too risky, those fins are expensive. Tomorrow i ll try with some PC reactor in large but good to know you found a set of fin !

But yeah it fell so un-drivey up to now, not what you expect for a 1000 dol board !

 

[Mat6920]

A friend has the MR twin + trailer, i ll have a go. The board doesn't get too loose with twin ?

 

[Bman76]

A friend has the MR twin + trailer, i ll have a go. The board doesn't get too loose with twin ?

Those fins are excellent in wide tail grovel boards IMO. A futures equivalent would be great.

 

[Mat6920]

Futures have so many options too, I would have rather had futures plug in than FCS. You have the eps version as well ?

 

[freeride76]

good luck bruz.

 

[ghostshaper]

Sounds like a case of getting used to twins and then going back to a full-size center anchor. Feels like dragging an anchor. The twin fin rec should make a big difference. Smaller the center, the faster.

 

[Aruka]

if twin + trailer doesn't float your boat I'd recommend something big and raked like large AM's in PC and not plastic noodle flex.

Those reactors are very upright, I doubt they will aid in your quest for more drive.

 

[kool-aid]

if twin + trailer doesn't float your boat I'd recommend something big and raked like large AM's in PC and not plastic noodle flex.

Those reactors are very upright, I doubt they will aid in your quest for more drive.

Agreed, Reactors only work well on ultra-short, ultra flat boards IMO. I ride them in my 5'8 Lost Rad Ripper, 5'8 Grovel Buzz, etc.

The Large AMs definitely work in smaller / weak waves. If you find you like something with a little bit less rake I've had a lot of success with the JW PCs in Large. Kind of my go-to fin at the moment when the performer template doesn't work well on a board, which happens.

Board looks like a pretty standard small wave shortboard. It seems a bit strange that a twin fin setup would be the call there but don't rule it out without trying it I suppose.

 

[TheEl]

Donuts?

 

[tedshred5]

I'd go AM larges and call it a day

or try something like the MF L side fins and a smaller performer center fin - that's what I use in my Neck Beard 2 which has a similar wide square tail, low nose rocker &mild tail flip.

 

[Waterlogged05]

Those fins are excellent in wide tail grovel boards IMO. A futures equivalent would be great.

The Naked Viking Nautilus set is same dims at MR bfor Futures

Nautilus Twin + Stabilizer - Apex

The large front fins provide a good balance of drive and release with lots of down the line speed. If you want to feel a little more locked in we've included a small center fin / stabilizer to help keep the board under control. The upright design of the front fins allow for snappy turns with...

www.surfnvs.com

 

[92122]

he reckons that those boards have a fairly good amount of foam upfront, even thou the stacey has a fairly wide outline, it s a thin board upfront and I m putting too much pressure on the my front foot to generate speed, that I should instead push through the fins to create that momentum. Any thoughts on that or tips or someone having similar experience? It s true that to pump I use the rails and push hard on my front font, not really using the fins (my back foot often time lands in front of the pad or on it but not that far back).

Exact same issue on a similar design EPS. Super light board and I'm front foot heavy all the time. Have to work on driving it from the fins and pushing off the bottom and top perfectly right from the first drop.

I feel like I can do this on slightly bigger open faced waves, but the best surfers can do this in small dumpy beach break to race sections and actually get something out of each wave. Usually I just drop and get closed out because I cant quickly capitalize on a good bottom to top pump. It only takes 1 or 2 to shoot you down the line if you can hit the clutch part of the face.

 

[Mat6920]

if twin + trailer doesn't float your boat I'd recommend something big and raked like large AM's in PC and not plastic noodle flex.

Those reactors are very upright, I doubt they will aid in your quest for more drive.

I m a but confused then, in the FCS chart the Reactors are defined as being the go to fin for speed, and quick turn for beachies with the upright template.
The AM/JW belong to the the carver category which is for bigger wave, drawn out turn so theh should rather have a more control speed as the wave is going the job for you.
(However i agree that even thou those are general rules, some fins work on boards and other not)

 

[Mat6920]

I'd go AM larges and call it a day

or try something like the MF L side fins and a smaller performer center fin - that's what I use in my Neck Beard 2 which has a similar wide square tail, low nose rocker &mild tail flip.

I didnt mention but i actually tried am2 large on side with a neo glass medium performer. Fell a touch better but not what i m expecting

 

[JDJ]

Twin trailer, or try large carvers, large AMs or those new Carbon Fannings.

 

[Sharkbiscuit]

I m a but confused then, in the FCS chart the Reactors are defined as being the go to fin for speed, and quick turn for beachies with the upright template.
The AM/JW belong to the the carver category which is for bigger wave, drawn out turn so theh should rather have a more control speed as the wave is going the job for you.
(However i agree that even thou those are general rules, some fins work on boards and other not)

$.02
That's bullshit.
Upright fins are slower than pandas fucking when it comes to getting down the line, and great at quick turns.
Raked/Swept fins haul ass down the line like a crack cheetah chasing a turbozebra, but don't lend themselves to quick top to bottom turns.

If it has a little steepness to the face, I can Brazzo-on-meth quickly rip off 3-4 pumps with upright fins and get down the line. But if the surf has sections coming down or backing off for cutbacks, those upright fins just don't push back, don't project, don't propel....imho pushing hard on rail doesn't work at all and surfing just becomes an exercise in vague-feeling constantly unweighted finesse garbage.

 

[JDJ]

If no drive using Large Carvers, maybe sell or ask Greg Griffin to make you fins that sit further back toward the tail.