Is it possible to rip on a mid-length?

GDaddy

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If you're planning on actively surfing a midlength in other that double overhead, then those actually become a PITA at lengths above 7-4 or do. At the longer lengths you can't really duckdive them to get through a good sized set. And if its got enough rocker for larger conditions then it won't fit the small/weak conditions all that well.

If you don't mind switching your style around to ride a midlength more passively then a flatter rocker and a 7 or 8 ft mini longboard will actually fit the curves of small junky waves better than a longboard. But those aren't very versatile. They usually max out at head high. Both of the vids are the top are examples of that type of board. That 6-8 would be tough for a lot of people to surf in bigger conditions. It's a good length for people who can surf but don't want to work real hard.

Noobs need length in order to get their waves because they don't have an eye for where they need to be. Aside from those people, you can pretty much do anything on a 7-4 that you can do on an 8-0 length. So you're really not giving anything up by keeping the midlenths between 6-8 and 7-4 or so. A 7-6 thruster is just a dog. It won't do anything well as far as how you would surf a thruster.
 
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92122

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Jul 29, 2015
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A mid length is my go to board...I don’t care for long boards because I don’t like the way they respond. I like to feel a board sink and shift when I lean into it, but I’m not good enough to surf a short board unless the conditions are right for me, so a mid allows that flexibility. And while mine can turn just fine (not too wide, narrow’ish tail) I’m not surfing like the dude in the first video Casa posted doing cutbacks, I’m the dude in the second video. Meh.
 

92122

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A 7-6 thruster is just a dog. It won't do anything well as far as how you would surf a thruster.
Dont agree.

Just because it’s a thruster doesn’t mean it needs to surf like a performance short board. I like the sticky feel of a thruster, regardless of length.
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

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It's been a while - 15 years at least - but yes I have. A bonzer by Mike Eaton.

It was made for a friend of my dad's, we considered it a funshape. Today would be marketed as a midlength.
I would never consider a bonzer of any shape or size to be a mid length.

Im not even really willing to accept anything with side bites to be a mid.

In my mind mid length is a shape, round nose, thick, flat/very slight bottom contours (usually a belly), soft rails, single fin.

the size of it is less important.

Fun shape is a 7 to 8 1/2 foot round nose multi fin board.
 
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Duffy LaCoronilla

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I agree 100%

I just think it's funny how a lot of people would be repulsed at riding a funshape but now froth at the idea of a midlength.

I must confess I'm not psyched on the thought of more of these appearing in the water under the feet of people who will hog,

The CI/Surftech version is in fact called "The Water Hog" :rolleyes:

Anyone calling the water hog a mid is a tool.
 

92122

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The 7’ 6” Thruster I’m currently riding... legit cut back at 1:25.

 
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BrownFish

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Mar 5, 2005
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I don't think anyone asked what is the definition of a midlength. It really doesn't matter. It's like discussing what a Fish is. I'm sure I have a different idea of what a Fish is, then many on here. You could just measure cocks, that works too. So, getting back to the OP question:
Is it possible to rip on a mid-length?
I personally think ripping is too subjective of a word. Everyone has a different thought on it, and a lot of it has to do with a million different variables. I started surfing in the early/mid 80's. When I think of ripping, I'm thinking of someone surfing well on a HP shortboard, mainly because thats all we rode back then. If you rode anything else, you were super old (like 30!) Surfing top to bottom, hitting the lip vertical, single carving cutbacks with close to vertical rebounds. This may not be what others consider ripping, but that's still ingrained into my thick skull from my younger days. Do I think Devon Howard surfs well? Do I appreciate watching him? Hell yeah, he surfs great. Is he ripping. Not to me. But, that's OK. He surfs with flow and incredible style, and that, I appreciate more than ripping. I don't expect when people aren't riding an HP shortboard to rip. I actually think it looks pretty dumb when people are trying to smack the lip vertically or surf off the tail on a midlength or longboard. My theory was always, if you are going to hit the lip, then do it on a shortboard. Does that take anything away from any other type of surfing. Not at all. I appreciate the lines some people draw on bigger boards. I love riding logs and noseriding. Nice big carves on a Fish. All boards can be fun, and honestly nobody should care what I think anyway. If you are having fun hitting the lip on a longboard, and it doesn't cause harm to anyone else, then by all means, you go for it (but it does look kinda dumb)!
 
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feralseppo

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Feb 28, 2006
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If you're planning on actively surfing a midlength in other that double overhead, then those actually become a PITA at lengths above 7-4 or do. At the longer lengths you can't really duckdive them to get through a good sized set. And if its got enough rocker for larger conditions then it won't fit the small/weak conditions all that well.

If you don't mind switching your style around to ride a midlength more passively then a flatter rocker and a 7 or 8 ft mini longboard will actually fit the curves of small junky waves better than a longboard. But those aren't very versatile. They usually max out at head high. Both of the vids are the top are examples of that type of board. That 6-8 would be tough for a lot of people to surf in bigger conditions. It's a good length for people who can surf but don't want to work real hard.

Noobs need length in order to get their waves because they don't have an eye for where they need to be. Aside from those people, you can pretty much do anything on a 7-4 that you can do on an 8-0 length. So you're really not giving anything up by keeping the midlenths between 6-8 and 7-4 or so. A 7-6 thruster is just a dog. It won't do anything well as far as how you would surf a thruster.
Kinda setting some black and white rules there for everyone. So the 140lb midget and the guy that is 6'4" 225 is limited to 6'8"? My short board (Lost Driver) is 6'6". I midlength an 8'1" (3.125 thick). I can duck dive it no problem and it works in a wide variety of waves.
 

Bman76

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Mar 10, 2011
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I would never consider a bonzer of any shape or size to be a mid length.

Im not even really willing to accept anything with side bites to be a mid.

In my mind mid length is a shape, round nose, thick, flat/very slight bottom contours (usually a belly), soft rails, single fin.

the size of it is less important.

Fun shape is a 7 to 8 1/2 foot round nose multi fin board.
What about the long-fish craze? Are they a sub-genre of the midlength?
 

freeride76

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Dec 31, 2009
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Lennox Head.
just been watching Torreyn Martyn on his 7ft whatever twin mid and Rasta threading DOH beachbreaks choobs the last few days.
I think when it comes out, people might recalibrate where mids work.

but yeah archer and all that applies.
 
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Toobz

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So, a philosophical question: at what length does a board become a midlength? The one above is a 6'8 double ender. But what if it was 6'8 JS thruster?
That’s a “big guy shortboard” :LOL:
Seriously though I see some great surfing from some of the older crew on bigger shortboards, just stylish power surfing that’s very pleasing to the eye in my opinion. Wayne Deane (RIP) was a master on big shorties.
 
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What I like most about the Emerick Ishikawa video, is the board he is riding is a double ended hand shape he created. Fin boxes on both ends. Wish I could shape boards and surf like that. Would be cool to take some kind of shaping class, but I doubt there is anything like that, on the East Coast anyway.

@csarqui Thanks for posting that. I forgot about those videos. I remember one specifically where he was riding a similar shape in some heavier stuff. Think he broke it.
 
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Duffy LaCoronilla

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That’s a “big guy shortboard” :LOL:
Seriously though I see some great surfing from some of the older crew on bigger shortboards, just stylish power surfing that’s very pleasing to the eye in my opinion. Wayne Deane (RIP) was a master on big shorties.
Big short boards are something that absolutely 100% should be custom made by a shaper who knows how to make them, for skilled surfers. What I have seen made by GG is good example of this.

Sadly what I see all too often is an OTR board “model” that just gets blown up bought by novice surfers looking to ride what a pro rides, just bigger.

To say this is less than ideal is an understatement.

The best example from my experience is the Slater models from CI. They just don’t res up well at all. Slater was riding 5’9 semi-pro and anything over about 6’3-6’4 really didn’t work well at all.

Those OTR HPSBS need to be ridden at a length that matches your stance. You need to have you feet in the right place. A custom shaper can make this happen with bigger boards but the OTRs are just...bigger.

If you are riding 7’0 squash tail OTR CI Semi Pro you better be around 7 feet tall or you are doing yourself a disservice.
 

bluemarlin04

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Aug 13, 2015
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Surfing is a personal pursuit. If you’re having fun in the lineup and not bothering anyone/being a nuisance/wave hog then what is the problem?

If you wanna surf a 10’6 or a 5’6 it’s all good.

Surfers put way too much stock into what others will think of them.

Majority are just trying to have fun and aren’t going to get paid for it