How do you size your mini-guns and guns?

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
26,586
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Jacksonville Beach
It always sounded like GG's boards would work great in a place like HI and I know some people that really liked them. They looked like absolute blades meant for ripping waves with push/power.

Most of the boards I saw of his for small/normal waves outside of HI looked big and their riders pretty kooky. The pics he'd post of his longboards as "proof of concept" were also of a very specific, "Hawaiian style" of longboarding that few people outside of HI want to emulate (and can't on the waves they ride a longboard in). That doesn't mean he didn't make good boards for average-poor waves, I just never really saw them.
I'd bet those keelfishy things, the Helix or Felix or whatever, I bet they go mental in clean average-poor waves.

I've only ever had the fins. The fins excel when there's time/room to run, particularly the keels I use for groveling flatter-faced walls.

I think some design elements at the opposite end of GG's trip, like concave, or fins with the trailing edge that come forward of the end of the base, they might work best in disjointed onshore beachbreaks where you're hopping from snap to snap.
 

VonMeister

Duke status
Apr 26, 2013
20,251
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JOE BIDENS RAPE FINGER
It always sounded like GG's boards would work great in a place like HI and I know some people that really liked them. They looked like absolute blades meant for ripping waves with push/power.

Most of the boards I saw of his for small/normal waves outside of HI looked big and their riders pretty kooky. The pics he'd post of his longboards as "proof of concept" were also of a very specific, "Hawaiian style" of longboarding that few people outside of HI want to emulate (and can't on the waves they ride a longboard in). That doesn't mean he didn't make good boards for average-poor waves, I just never really saw them.
I have a MF2 that works in everything.......but that was Greg. He had a loyal following most of then older and from Hawaii. In his mind he had it figured out and wasn't going to change. Surfing is a sport where 90% of the people are riding the wrong boards so either by character or crazy...maybe both he wasn't going to change what he does to be a part of that.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,207
10,416
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33.8N - 118.4W
OK. Couple more questions.

This discussion has centered on width, but always about max width. Seems like 20"+- 1/4" (0.28 to be precise). What about TAIL WIDTH? What is the magic number? Too wide and it would be hard to get over on rail and/or would tend to spin out. Too narrow and it gets tracky. The wave I surf is not top to bottom and is very swoopable so I wouldn't want a really narrow tail. So what is your preferred tail width if you want to turn on big waves?

And to Doc Flavanoid's point, how much tail rocker?

Second question concerns thickness. When you get up to and past 7-6 how much difference does thickness make in paddling? I'm thiking a 7-6 x 20 x 2-5/8 is oing to be around 45 liters? That's a lot of volume. Does packng more on make a difference?
 

VonMeister

Duke status
Apr 26, 2013
20,251
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JOE BIDENS RAPE FINGER
OK. Couple more questions.

This discussion has centered on width, but always about max width. Seems like 20"+- 1/4" (0.28 to be precise). What about TAIL WIDTH? What is the magic number? Too wide and it would be hard to get over on rail and/or would tend to spin out. Too narrow and it gets tracky. The wave I surf is not top to bottom and is very swoopable so I wouldn't want a really narrow tail. So what is your preferred tail width if you want to turn on big waves?

And to Doc Flavanoid's point, how much tail rocker?

Second question concerns thickness. When you get up to and past 7-6 how much difference does thickness make in paddling? I'm thiking a 7-6 x 20 x 2-5/8 is oing to be around 45 liters? That's a lot of volume. Does packng more on make a difference?
If a surfer is making decisions on tail width the process is broken or they are ordering a board from the wrong guy.
 
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Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
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Justin is a portly fella that knows how to manage a longer rail line and bigger board, so the 8'5" makes a lot of sense for hunting down those 2nd reefers. Those roll ins are so cool and it seems like you can ride about as big of a board as you'd like.
 
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One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,207
10,416
113
33.8N - 118.4W
How would you size for the two or three days a year this comes together in the NorthEast factoring in a 5mm wetsuit, major drift heavy offshore wind and crazy takeoff? Glass schedule to survive the beatings?

http://instagr.am/p/BixbxL_FhDK/
I've never surfed the East Coast but what I see online seems shorter interval, quick and hollow. I would think shorter and more rockered than what goes in California? But you've been there your whole life and shape boards. You don't have an idea?

ps that is an insane barrel you linked...the water is not brown. Florida?
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,309
4,717
113
How would you size for the two or three days a year this comes together in the NorthEast factoring in a 5mm wetsuit, major drift heavy offshore wind and crazy takeoff? Glass schedule to survive the beatings?

http://instagr.am/p/BixbxL_FhDK/
I've never surfed the East Coast but what I see online seems shorter interval, quick and hollow. I would think shorter and more rockered than what goes in California? But you've been there your whole life and shape boards. You don't have an idea?

ps that is an insane barrel you linked...the water is not brown. Florida?
That's Jersey.

Gleason was riding a lot of fuller, wide point forward boards he designed with Bennet for waves just like this under the Chem Zen line. Here's all of them.
They have a twinnie, channel version of it now too (which the front half of the model photos look a little more pedestrian, and the tail looks really pulled in for business time. But there are definitely some guys putting their twin pin boards in serious positions, a la Troy Eckert's beauty in Mexico on an album twin).

The Chem Zen is a perfect mix between old and new design that can be ridden in a variety of waves. Developed NJ legend Mike Gleason, this board is built for speed and control in the pocket of hollow waves.
The board's wide point is moved forward and its has a full foil through the midpoint to the nose. This helps the board paddle easy as well as enhances its planing ability in flat sections and in the pocket. It also has a narrow round pin tail that increases its maneuverability and keeps the board locked in the pocket when the waves are hollow. Works well as a thruster or quad so the 5 fin set up is the best choice. The Chem Zen has worked really well as a quad and with a 6 channel bottom.




The Chem Zenagain was spawned by the desire to take our Chem Zen model and give it a more shortboard feel outside of the tube.
We left all the forward volume our original Chem Zen had in this model. With the Chem Zenagain we removed the retro beak, added more nose and tail rocker while widening the tail block. This allows the board to fit in the curve of the wave easier and keeps the tail loose. You can choose the Chem Zenagain with or without 4 channels. The 4 channels give the board a bit more bite on the wave, but not too much where you won’t be able to turn it. The Chem Zenagain is a modern version of a proven design that has been a staple in our line up since 2010.



The third installment to our Chem Zen line.
The Zen board line has been a favorite of our customers looking for a forward volume board to get in early on heavy, hollow surf. The Zen3 was built off of the need to get into waves easily and to go as fast as possible down the line. This characteristic alone not only makes this ultra versatile model work well in hollow surf but below average surf as well. The Zen3 has a relaxed entry rocker which makes this board paddle well in all conditions. It's wider thumb tail allows for maximum maneuverability, while the four channel bottom gives the board a bit more hold and aids in even more speed generation. Testing this model has been really fun due to its ability to perform in just about everything. From getting deep head high tubes to launching airs in waist high waves, it made choosing a board easy when heading out for a surf. We can finally claim with full confidence that this is the fastest model we have ever created.



Constantly mixing it up to keep it fun, the Zen 4 is one of our favorite models in the Zen line.
The evolution of our "Zen" line continues in 2021 with the release of the new Zen 4. The Zen 4 has a step up feel with added paddle power from it's forward volume. Meant to be ridden as a twin, the Zen 4 holds a line in tubes with the help from its 4 channel bottom. The double wing pin tail gives this model stability in heavier, hollow waves. The Zen 4 carves well on the face and doesn't have that "wash out" feel at the end of turns. The Zen 4 has a relaxed rocker which makes it a great paddler in all conditions. Designed to be ridden in better waves, the Zen 4 also excels in below average surf.




Also, Jason's handshapes page has some absolute steals on it right now.
The 8'8" for under 1k is nuts.



The R2+ fits this thread really well too $700 of instant gratification.

 
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