Just for discussion, since I surfed some DOH today....
First of all I used this board on Saturday, head high to slightly overhead, and it felt really good, pretty loose. If it was a model I'd call it the "Super Swooper." Today, I thought was going to be a repeat of Saturday, but more consistent. Instead, every now and then some much bigger waves came in. I would dare to call a few DOH. I'll admit they were at the edge of my comfort zone. To give you an example, there was one bona fide clean up set- where once there were 10-12 people, after two waves came through there were only two of us. I found what works great in head high, feels a lot different in DOH. My observation is this- on a big wave you are going so much faster that the lift on the bottom of the board becomes too much. It felt hard to bury my edge and I would have wanted a narrower and/or much more foiled out tail.
The Waves- these were not the big sets. I waited around after I got out to see if some of the big ones would come through but they didn't. You can see left over foam out where they were breaking. My biggest waves were all lefts. The right started to close out on the bigger ones. The smaller rights were head high to slightly overhead (like the ones in the photos) and were good screamers . As is common in LA when it gets bigger there were only two other guys really going for waves. They were both on big Joe Bark guns, maybe those "adventure" boards someone posted about. They were pointing and shooting, not swooping...
The Board- 7'-4" x 20-5/8" x 2-5/8. So Cal rocker (for fat, deep water waves). Flat bottom. Hard edges (Griffin influence
). 2+1 but I use a big thruster for the center fin, not a single fin.
This board is at least 15 years old. It's one of those trusty ones that I will never sell. The hickory skins make it bulletproof too. Koa on the pointy bits.
I'm about to make a reiteration of this- more foiled in the tail, wide point moved up, thinner rails and vee in the tail (to help get it on rail). Maybe twinzer??? I'm also not sure if I should try to make it lighter. I know I can. Today was glassy and smooth. But often in bigger waves there's a little chop and lightweight is not an asset IMHO.
Can you see the hard edges?