How do you size your mini-guns and guns?

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
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:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

Remind me of my interactions with Danny Hess. That poor guy!
"I want an 8'6". "
Two days later:
"No wait! Make it an 8'10"!"
Two days later:
"How big do you think it should be?"
Him: "How about if we split the difference and go 8'8"?"
Me: "If you think that's what I should do, let's do it."
I'm certain 'him' silently: :trout:

Basically: "I don't know sh!t, but you understand what I'm saying, right!?"
 
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Woke AF

Tom Curren status
Jul 29, 2009
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ocean beach also classically looks way easier on video than in real life

100% if you could transplant the wave alone to a different situation you could ride a shorter board, but the reality is that a lot of time is spent paddling against the current, to get in position, etc. etc. and it's way easier on a bigger board. wave also has a lot of power for the height
Even looking at it in person from the dunes above, gauging size and what is happening in the water and using many years of experience looking from the same spot it is a 5/7 guess.
When you do get it right the conditions will change within an hr so…
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
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Is that double overhead? Maybe I'm doing this wrong (I am, one way or another) but I would feel like my 6'8 bb is enough for that. Maybe it's the angle? It feels like I'm talking shlt but I'm not, I don't charge :LOL:, just trying to update my personal scale if it's OK to ride 8 foot + guns in those waves. Shshsh would probably ride a 6'2 that day.
Sure thing Nat Young..

Even looking at it in person from the dunes above, gauging size and what is happening in the water and using many years of experience looking from the same spot it is a 5/7 guess.
When you do get it right the conditions will change within an hr so…

There's that.
There's the change in tide that makes tall, slopey, almondy ones turn into mega hollow death pits in less than an hour.
There's the "I paddled out at ___ street to surf 8 footers but got out the back 6 blocks down where it was twice as big".
There's "Look at those sick in betweeners running in the mid zone", until you miss one, see the set stacking behind you and realize why they were all going unridden.
There's the 6 foot days that flex like 10 foot days.
There's the rip that is a block wide that got you out the back, but now you have to traverse back to a peak and try to get a wave in.

And on and on it goes
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
25,105
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San Francisco, CA
My nightmare was always just after getting caught as I was about to get outside. You've paddled your ass off and and been tumbled under countless whitewaters for 45 minutes, heart rate is maxing, you are almost to safety, and then you take a set on the head. Those holddowns are hell. Then you surface, on the verge of panic as seawater flows out of your sinus (some goes out, some goes down to your stomach), doesn't feel like there is oxygen in your blood ....and the ocean is flat...you can make it outside if you just flat out go for it...
Fixed.
 
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trifish

Billy Hamilton status
Sep 23, 2009
1,422
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Shred City
There's that.
There's the change in tide that makes tall, slopey, almondy ones turn into mega hollow death pits in less than an hour.
There's the "I paddled out at ___ street to surf 8 footers but got out the back 6 blocks down where it was twice as big".
There's "Look at those sick in betweeners running in the mid zone", until you miss one, see the set stacking behind you and realize why they were all going unridden.
There's the 6 foot days that flex like 10 foot days.
There's the rip that is a block wide that got you out the back, but now you have to traverse back to a peak and try to get a wave in.

And on and on it goes
On point. I remember getting out a few times at night right as the sun just set and thinking, "Is my vehicle north or south?" Those walks are fun in the winter when your frozen, numb, and exhausted.
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
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On point. I remember getting out a few times at night right as the sun just set and thinking, "Is my vehicle north or south?" Those walks are fun in the winter when your frozen, numb, and exhausted.

maaaaan. And the bike/walk trail asphalt is not smooth and kind on your feet.
It's much easier when Great Highway is closed, but you can't spot your car as you walk from there..
 
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doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
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Sheesh :shrug: . What can I say.

You don't like my art, Doc!?
pay me no mind. when it comes to bigger days, im the king of bad decisions.

as for your art. well, ive participated in enough crits to say its not about what i like or dont like that matters. but i would ask you, do feel like you gave it your full effort?

and for bob doobie, i would ask him to space the index finger and thumb of his right hand 2" apart, look at it, then ask himself, "will it make a difference when its 15'?"
 

spenat

Nep status
Feb 11, 2008
834
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Brooklyn- Manhattan beach
:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

You know board size is very much dependent upon the wave (and crowd sometimes, too). So for example, at Point Conception there's a long period wave that rolls in thick and strong. If your board isn't big enough, you have to take off late and steep. If the wave's going to throw, you're not going to make it. You need a bigger board to get in. Waimea is a fine example of this, too. I used an 8'2" there and loved it, but again it depends upon the swell. This last Eddie swell, something like that NEVER would've worked. Mavs is another example of that. You need the long board to get it.

But in a short period event, sometimes a smaller board just works. I always prefer going smaller, but that's just me.

There's also a crowd and bottom contours component to this. Teahupoo will not let you ride a big board easily. Cloudbreak will. But Cloudbreak without a crowd is easy to get into. So... yeah... f me. There's a lot of variables in all of surfing. Cannot wait to take my new asymmetrical board to Cloudbreak. I have a feeling it's going to work well there.

Curious about your asylum board you are taking back to Tavi.

Im heading back in April and trying to figure out a cloud break board,

last trip felt underpinned on a 6-6 on the truly bigger days.

I always told myself I would just stick to restaurants on those big big days but now was to get a 7-0 and have a go.

Torn between a mini padillac, a classic padi or vent maybe a album Townsend
 

sh3

Michael Peterson status
Dec 1, 2008
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Curious about your asylum board you are taking back to Tavi.

Im heading back in April and trying to figure out a cloud break board,

last trip felt underpinned on a 6-6 on the truly bigger days.

I always told myself I would just stick to restaurants on those big big days but now was to get a 7-0 and have a go.

Torn between a mini padillac, a classic padi or vent maybe a album Townsend
Sounds like you're already planning on it - I love it! Do it. Just make sure the forecast suits the bigger boards before you pack them. Made that mistake and carted 5 boards across the planet to basically use just 1. I now pack two, three if I'm really in a pinch.
 

doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
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19" does seems too narrow for an 8'0 but I still like the idea of more outline curve between the feet.
the concept of more outline curve behind the front foot for bigger wave boards never worked great in my experience where basically you want to go fast get barreled and get out of harms way.

solid waves provide plenty of power to overcome a little straighter rail line when you want to turn. imo its more about tail rocker at high speeds that loosens things up. and the benefits of better paddle speed and hold far out weigh the novelty of riding a big step up.
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
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the concept of more outline curve behind the front foot for bigger wave boards never worked great in my experience where basically you want to go fast get barreled and get out of harms way.

solid waves provide plenty of power to overcome a little straighter rail line when you want to turn. imo its more about tail rocker at high speeds that loosens things up. and the benefits of better paddle speed and hold far out weigh the novelty of riding a big step up.

Yeah.
Making boards for "Big Waves" in Hawaii seems very different than "Big Waves" in California, in most circumstances.
 
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