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Remind me of my interactions with Danny Hess. That poor guy!
"I want an 8'6". "
Two days later:
"No wait! Make it an 8'10"!"
Two days later:
"How big do you think it should be?"
Him: "How about if we split the difference and go 8'8"?"
Me: "If you think that's what I should do, let's do it."
I'm certain 'him' silently:
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Even looking at it in person from the dunes above, gauging size and what is happening in the water and using many years of experience looking from the same spot it is a 5/7 guess.
Sure thing Nat Young..Is that double overhead? Maybe I'm doing this wrong (I am, one way or another) but I would feel like my 6'8 bb is enough for that. Maybe it's the angle? It feels like I'm talking shlt but I'm not, I don't charge, just trying to update my personal scale if it's OK to ride 8 foot + guns in those waves. Shshsh would probably ride a 6'2 that day.
On point. I remember getting out a few times at night right as the sun just set and thinking, "Is my vehicle north or south?" Those walks are fun in the winter when your frozen, numb, and exhausted.
pay me no mind. when it comes to bigger days, im the king of bad decisions.Sheesh. What can I say.
You don't like my art, Doc!?
That wasn't even a big one. These are just all the shoulder floaters on Sunday on 7'0s getting cleaned up.Curtiss J. Conrad on Instagram: "Ocean Beach, SF."
5,982 likes, 59 comments - cj_conrad on November 25, 2023: "Ocean Beach, SF.".
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You know board size is very much dependent upon the wave (and crowd sometimes, too). So for example, at Point Conception there's a long period wave that rolls in thick and strong. If your board isn't big enough, you have to take off late and steep. If the wave's going to throw, you're not going to make it. You need a bigger board to get in. Waimea is a fine example of this, too. I used an 8'2" there and loved it, but again it depends upon the swell. This last Eddie swell, something like that NEVER would've worked. Mavs is another example of that. You need the long board to get it.
But in a short period event, sometimes a smaller board just works. I always prefer going smaller, but that's just me.
There's also a crowd and bottom contours component to this. Teahupoo will not let you ride a big board easily. Cloudbreak will. But Cloudbreak without a crowd is easy to get into. So... yeah... f me. There's a lot of variables in all of surfing. Cannot wait to take my new asymmetrical board to Cloudbreak. I have a feeling it's going to work well there.
Sounds like you're already planning on it - I love it! Do it. Just make sure the forecast suits the bigger boards before you pack them. Made that mistake and carted 5 boards across the planet to basically use just 1. I now pack two, three if I'm really in a pinch.
the concept of more outline curve behind the front foot for bigger wave boards never worked great in my experience where basically you want to go fast get barreled and get out of harms way.
