Home improvement - where to start?

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,161
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Is roundup ok to get on the surrounding ice plant?

is there a “guy” I can get for this who won’t just kill everything?
Post a picture. Usually anything that kills grass to the roots (systemic?) isn’t healthy on anything else. Some systemic stuff is selective, broad leaf only. Some stuff like paraquat burns what it touches but doesn’t necessarily get to the root.

IMG_5779.jpeg

From the left the rectangular is Tordon, broad leaf selective doesn’t kill grass. Next on the right is paraquat (mata todo), non selective.
 

hammies

Duke status
Apr 8, 2006
15,602
14,251
113
That is what I think a Pulaski is.

I used a mattock at the chert layer:
View attachment 154583



5 minute inspection ends with a signature on the permit indicating a "pass". Woo!

View attachment 154582

View attachment 154584


Drop at the end is over the gas line.

View attachment 154585

Back filled it myself yesterday and my manly thews are a bit on the sore side today.

Now for some concrete work.....



No.


Offhand, anyone wanna guess what I paid for the non-digging, non-filling, test-included plumbing?
12 g's plus your labor.
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,660
18,155
113
Petak Island
Just an FYI

NEVER EVER use this paint:


- takes at least several days to dry
- cannot get full coverage with even 3-4 coats
- poor leveling
- poor adhesion - normal brush and roller technique will actually remove paint

I'm now 3 weeks into a project that would normally take me two days - repainting three (yes THREE) cabinets - I have done this before with no issues using other semigloss paint for this purpose.

They look totally awful, like some shitty amateur who has never held a paintbrush did them.
 

Will there be snacks

Miki Dora status
Mar 18, 2011
4,446
2,657
113
Hotel Coral Essex
Just an FYI

NEVER EVER use this paint:


- takes at least several days to dry
- cannot get full coverage with even 3-4 coats
- poor leveling
- poor adhesion - normal brush and roller technique will actually remove paint

I'm now 3 weeks into a project that would normally take me two days - repainting three (yes THREE) cabinets - I have done this before with no issues using other semigloss paint for this purpose.

They look totally awful, like some shitty amateur who has never held a paintbrush did them.
Sorry, that sucks. Never really thought about what your next move is if painting your cabinets goes poorly. Try to restrip, total replacement, or just live with it. All three of those options would leave me wishing I never started this. No experience with that specific paint or urethane alkyd, but something doesn't sound right with the really long dry times and the fact that additional coats are removing paint would make me think it's still not cured properly even after several days. Even though it sounds like an issue with the paint, what was you prep like? All the vids I've watched say kitchen cabinets need to be degreased before sanding. Even if they look clean.
 
Last edited:

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,660
18,155
113
Petak Island
Sorry, that sucks. Never really thought about what your next move is if painting your cabinets goes poorly. Try to restrip, total replacement, or just live with it. All three of those options would leave me wishing I never started this. No experience with that specific paint or urethane alkyd, but something doesn't sound right with the really long dry times and the fact that additional coats are removing paint. What was you prep like? All the vids I've watched say kitchen cabinets need to be degreased before sanding. Even if they look clean.
They're not kitchen cabinets, they're bathroom cabinets.

Sanded, followed by a deglossing wipedown. Then prime.

Guy at the paint store knew exactly what I was talking about when i said the stuff sucks.

When I say additional coats remove paint I mean if you're painting a coat and you hit a wet area from 30 seconds ago it will remove some of the paint. He mentioned this specifically. Said the only way the stuff ends up looking good is with a sprayer.
 

Will there be snacks

Miki Dora status
Mar 18, 2011
4,446
2,657
113
Hotel Coral Essex
They're not kitchen cabinets, they're bathroom cabinets.

Sanded, followed by a deglossing wipedown. Then prime.

Guy at the paint store knew exactly what I was talking about when i said the stuff sucks.

When I say additional coats remove paint I mean if you're painting a coat and you hit a wet area from 30 seconds ago it will remove some of the paint. He mentioned this specifically. Said the only way the stuff ends up looking good is with a sprayer.
gotcha. fugg that paint then.
 

keenfish

Duke status
May 12, 2002
18,849
6,643
113
Trona
www.pbase.com
Just an FYI

NEVER EVER use this paint:


- takes at least several days to dry
- cannot get full coverage with even 3-4 coats
- poor leveling
- poor adhesion - normal brush and roller technique will actually remove paint

I'm now 3 weeks into a project that would normally take me two days - repainting three (yes THREE) cabinets - I have done this before with no issues using other semigloss paint for this purpose.

They look totally awful, like some shitty amateur who has never held a paintbrush did them.
BEHR.. WORST PAINT EVER!!! :cursing:

That sh!t never hardens.

Gotta go with Dunn Edwards or Sherwin-Williams.
 

PPK96754

Miki Dora status
Apr 15, 2015
4,699
5,934
113
78
Kauai's north shore ~
image.jpg

(20) 4“ x 4” x 4’ posts. Color left
assorted lengths on 4” x 6” top rail cap, color right
white primer, paint, sand, paint
color, paint sand paint
Exposed deck to wind, rain & tradewind flow
 
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Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,924
7,840
113
San Francisco, CA
Probably $6,500 - $8,500.

Are you not allowed to use ABS for your own sewer lateral? Would have saved you a lot of time and $$$$. The City needs to update their material standards.

Total cost to Mr. Doof for the cast iron install/testing came to:

1684769525254.png

It is is important to note that I (with help from Sweetie-pie):
1 - obtained permit my self for $190
2 - excavated the soil
3 - cut and removed driveway sections (4 hr concrete saw rental was $80)
4 - back filled soil upon passing test
5 - am now going to redo the 9 ft^3 concrete for the driveway ($130 for the premixed/just add water type)
6 - call the trash company for my once-allowed-for-free-big-trash pick up (old clay pipe/cracked concrete)
7 - did plant and groundcover install yesterday, irrigation reinstalled too (free woodships from McLlaren Park)

Why the cast iron? Looking at SF building codes, I am unsure why as well. I see parts that say clean-out and vents have to be cast, but ABS is allowed in other parts. Perhaps because the interior line was cast going to clay (which is what fractured in 3 places) and you have to hook cast iron to cast iron, or because we dug a trench that would be uncovered by concrete, or because SF has earthquake/soil updates to the code that I missed that explains things?

I simply told the plumbing company that I wanted the job to pass inspection, that would be most resistant to plant roots, environmental factors, had greatest life expectancy, and would resist damage from a bad refill or a knucklehead driving onto the dirt on top of it.

Was I ripped off? Did they really need to use cast for everything? I am unsure but I don't think so. I like to pretend everyone isn't a scumbag and do not seek to rip people off.

This $2000 covered 4 hours of solid work by two men....3.5 hrs last Wednesday and /5 hr for the inspection the following day. When they came out to scope the line, they told us they would charge $150 per hour per man. When I said I'd dig out the line and pull the permit, etc., there was some doubt in the eyes. But no additional work on their part was needed, so he set up the install date, and told me to arrange the inspection for the following day (which I did).

For similar job up the street, they paid $8000 two years back. And the house down the hill with way more work, including going out under the street (and bringing in SF City Public Works for that part), they got $16,000 bill. These houses did none of their own work and work was done pretty quickly. I'm still working on it (the concreting part is next).

How much to charge for my labor? Well, yeah, how much is my dirt digging/moving, saw wielding skill worth? That can be argued, but I put it like this: at least a new surfboard for fall 2023. But really, to me, no one is going to be more honest about the work done on your home than if you do it yourself or have a large stake in it, and considering what we went through previously with the stair rebuild, I needed the reassurance this job was going to come in under budget, done to code, and provide some peace of mind.
 

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,161
12,152
113
Total cost to Mr. Doof for the cast iron install/testing came to:

View attachment 154733

It is is important to note that I (with help from Sweetie-pie):
1 - obtained permit my self for $190
2 - excavated the soil
3 - cut and removed driveway sections (4 hr concrete saw rental was $80)
4 - back filled soil upon passing test
5 - am now going to redo the 9 ft^3 concrete for the driveway ($130 for the premixed/just add water type)
6 - call the trash company for my once-allowed-for-free-big-trash pick up (old clay pipe/cracked concrete)
7 - did plant and groundcover install yesterday, irrigation reinstalled too (free woodships from McLlaren Park)

Why the cast iron? Looking at SF building codes, I am unsure why as well. I see parts that say clean-out and vents have to be cast, but ABS is allowed in other parts. Perhaps because the interior line was cast going to clay (which is what fractured in 3 places) and you have to hook cast iron to cast iron, or because we dug a trench that would be uncovered by concrete, or because SF has earthquake/soil updates to the code that I missed that explains things?

I simply told the plumbing company that I wanted the job to pass inspection, that would be most resistant to plant roots, environmental factors, had greatest life expectancy, and would resist damage from a bad refill or a knucklehead driving onto the dirt on top of it.

Was I ripped off? Did they really need to use cast for everything? I am unsure but I don't think so. I like to pretend everyone isn't a scumbag and do not seek to rip people off.

This $2000 covered 4 hours of solid work by two men....3.5 hrs last Wednesday and /5 hr for the inspection the following day. When they came out to scope the line, they told us they would charge $150 per hour per man. When I said I'd dig out the line and pull the permit, etc., there was some doubt in the eyes. But no additional work on their part was needed, so he set up the install date, and told me to arrange the inspection for the following day (which I did).

For similar job up the street, they paid $8000 two years back. And the house down the hill with way more work, including going out under the street (and bringing in SF City Public Works for that part), they got $16,000 bill. These houses did none of their own work and work was done pretty quickly. I'm still working on it (the concreting part is next).

How much to charge for my labor? Well, yeah, how much is my dirt digging/moving, saw wielding skill worth? That can be argued, but I put it like this: at least a new surfboard for fall 2023. But really, to me, no one is going to be more honest about the work done on your home than if you do it yourself or have a large stake in it, and considering what we went through previously with the stair rebuild, I needed the reassurance this job was going to come in under budget, done to code, and provide some peace of mind.
Is the invoice for both material and labor?

Attaboy! Peace of mind and a new surfboard!
 
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ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,161
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113
Thinking like that will never enable me to retire early.....new surfboard sure, trip, ummm, yeah not this year. :cry:

PS
She gets something too....hope it is not another weekend at Indian Springs.
3k on a trip means you still come out ahead. Very doable for you and the Mrs.

How did you get talked into Indian Springs?