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Holy Crap!!!
- Thread starter flyinraptr
- Start date
So today - with trusted 6'10" BSD Twinzer in hand - hit it right at high tide. Chest to head high - long interval between sets - no wind - clean conditions. Got a couple fun ones. About 2 hours into the session - out of nowhere a 6'-8' set rolls in .... i was pretty far inside and started paddling - made it under the first 5 or 6 then took 5 or 6 on the head ... seemed like it kept breaking further and further out. I got to where i thought i was far enough out and another 10 wave set rolled in breaking even further out - took those on the head and ended up getting dragged all the way to the inside. It was if someone flipped a switch and it was relentless wave after wave. At that point i called it day. Getting the 7'2" pintail and maybe even my 7'4" Buckley ready for tomorrow and rest of the week. LOL
that is such a unique feeling/situation to surfing...
you could get more, but you've just been completely brutalized with more
coming right at you....you know you've got to call it, but you're not really
happy about that realization because - waves!
skiing you can say "last run!" or "that was a good one to end it on"
sometimes that decision gets made for you without your consent
you could get more, but you've just been completely brutalized with more
coming right at you....you know you've got to call it, but you're not really
happy about that realization because - waves!
skiing you can say "last run!" or "that was a good one to end it on"
sometimes that decision gets made for you without your consent
Absolutely right! I inured my shoulder a couple seasons back - took a long time to get it back to 100% but learned a few things along the way. That and i turned 60 at the beginning of this year - so i am paying more attention to my body and how fatigued my shoulders are and having success by not pushing it. I surf almost everyday but limiting it to one session between 2 and 4 hours depending on conditions. I am in really good "surf" shape right now - if it had happened at the beginning of the session - i would have paddled back out no question but knowing that it is going to be pumping for the next several days - figured better off saving it for later in the week. Today - weather is not cooperating - lighting storms, heavy rain .... tomorrow morning looks good though!
Thanks - this was almost exactly one year ago - setting up for the inside section at Panga Drops on my 7'2". I started a rehab program last September for my shoulder and to improve my strength and flexibility. Dropped another 10lbs - feel pretty good going into this season - just trying to be smart so i can stay in the water.
homeboy is more liek mid 40s as far as holding it together...def not a 60 yr old setup
We’re just starting to see some long period but there’s a bunch of wnw wind blowing out to sea and never cleaned up very good this morning.
As i recall - 20W - when you came out to visit we polished off all of my Guinness beer on hand as well as a bottle of 12 year old Flor de Cana!!! Look forward to the next time bro!!!
Ha ha - that was the end section of a long wave out at Pangas. There's far better to be had ... wait to you see freaking Hermosa.