Hawaii Nov 24th Big Friday

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Apr 17, 2008
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Waimea Buoy early Friday 11-24-23: 20 feet at 20 seconds from 310 degrees

Ian Walsh about Jaws:

“The morning was a little wonky — it seemed like there was a lot of reverb, there wasn’t a ruler-edge, defined takeoff. It could’ve been residual bump from a pretty solid north swell we’d had the entire week leading up to that — it was making these crazy lip lines and wedges moving through the sets, even when the winds were light and offshore early in the morning. It just seemed like one of those very intimidating, unruly days. It was like 20-foot, doubled-up and converging on itself, like where the foamball is pushing through into the end bowl. And I think that had a lot to do with how much energy was actually in the swell. And then coupled with the angle of the swell, it kind of mixed all that together and made it very, very intimidating. And by 9am, it was nuking tradewinds, too.

“So we ended up having a tow session — which was really fun to get kind of reacquainted with that out there."

Elsewhere in XXL Hawaii (surfline.com)
 
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