Hawaii- Done

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,565
2,383
113
Locals give you trouble if you paddle out where you never been and act like a moron.

If you think you gonna paddle out to anywhere in Hawaii and move to the peak and get the set waves if no one ever seen you before well…bumbai u learn
 

hammies

Duke status
Apr 8, 2006
15,587
14,214
113
Locals give you trouble if you paddle out where you never been and act like a moron.

If you think you gonna paddle out to anywhere in Hawaii and move to the peak and get the set waves if no one ever seen you before well…bumbai u learn
Boy I wish it was like that here.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,850
7,747
113
San Francisco, CA
Locals give you trouble if you paddle out where you never been and act like a moron.

If you think you gonna paddle out to anywhere in Hawaii and move to the peak and get the set waves if no one ever seen you before well…bumbai u learn
Most grief I've ever in the line-up on any of the Hawaiian Islands was from whitey telling me I couldn't handle the spot at 6 ft and it looked like I didn't belong there. It was apparent he was trying to establish that he belonged there and I didn't. Says some other stuff, but I just tuned him out since I was happy with taking the waves that went wide from the peak and that he could compete with the only other surfer at the main peak.

He then paddled to the other surfer and asked who her father was and where she lived. She said something like "How would you know my father?" Then gestured to the island when explaining where she lived. (Earlier it had just been she and I surfing there. She and I had spoken for a while earlier about the fish on the reef, how the swell had dropped from yesterday, her time living in California while attending university, etc., just small talk and being politely friendly.)

The three of us were joined by another surfer, who gave me a glare as he made his way up the reef. After talking to the other surfer, he then paddles over to whitey, gestures, and in goes whitey. Those two stay at the top of the reef, I stay further down the line, on the boil that 50% of the time shuts down the better ride. Figure it is best for me to get used to the clear water over the shallow reef on the borrowed board (thanks, PPK) on the 'B' wave before I go for the 'A' wave....the 'B' being much better than what I surf most of the time, I had zero problems with this set up.]

Time goes on, and after one particularly good set and long rides, the male and female surfers are paddling back up the reef, when the last (?) wave of the set swings wide which means I get a shot, and I make the best of it with small cover-up and clean kick out. This gets me a nod of appreciation from the male and a grin from the woman.

After about 2 hours or so, see some more people starting to paddle out, and it is time to go after one more wave. Not a long wait, and I end up taking a wave that shut down at the boil (from 'A' wave perspective) and get another quick/small cover-up and zippy kick-out, then long paddle in. Gets some smiles on the way in, probably due to me leaving, but I like to pretend my extremely minor display of nuanced surfing combined with my ever so fine office wetsuit pallor was that perfect juxtaposition that deserved a smile.
 
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bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,565
2,383
113
Most grief I've ever in the line-up on any of the Hawaiian Islands was from whitey telling me I couldn't handle the spot at 6 ft and it looked like I didn't belong there. It was apparent he was trying to establish that he belonged there and I didn't. Says some other stuff, but I just tuned him out since I was happy with taking the waves that went wide from the peak and that he could compete with the only other surfer at the main peak.

He then paddled to the other surfer and asked who her father was and where she lived. She said something like "How would you know my father?" Then gestured to the island when explaining where she lived. (Earlier it had just been she and I surfing there. She and I had spoken for a while earlier about the fish on the reef, how the swell had dropped from yesterday, he time living in California while attending university, etc., just small talk and being politely friendly.)

The three of us were joined by another surfer, who gave me a glare as he made his way up the reef. After talking to the other surfer, he then paddles over to whitey, gestures, and in goes whitey. Those two stay at the top of the reef, I stay further down the line, on the boil that 50% of the time shuts down the better ride. Figure it is best for me to get used to the clear water over the shallow reef on the borrowed board (thanks, PPK) on the 'B' wave before I go for the 'A' wave....the 'B' being much better than what I surf most of the time, I had zero problems with this set up.]

Time goes on, and after one particularly good set and long rides, the male and female surfers are paddling back up the reef, when the last (?) wave of the set swings wide which means I get a shot, and I make the best of it with small cover-up and clean kick out. This gets me a nod of appreciation from the male and a grin from the woman.

After about 2 hours or so, see some more people starting to paddle out, and it is time to go after one more wave. Not a long wait, and I end up taking a wave that shut down at the boil (from 'A' wave perspective) and get another quick/small cover-up and zippy kick-out, then long paddle in. Gets some smiles on the way in, probably due to me leaving, but I like to pretend my extremely minor display of nuanced surfing combined with my ever so fine office wetsuit pallor was that perfect juxtaposition that deserved a smile.
What island was this and are you local or haole?

The people like the dude who bark are all talk and do it too people who they feel are vulnerable.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,850
7,747
113
San Francisco, CA
1 Was at that spot not far from the monk seal which wasn't far from the hydropower station which I understand isn't that far from Pierce Brosnan's place on the northern side of Kauai.

2 Except for that tiny bit of Italian DNA that might help me look more tan than a Norwegian, like to think I am just a haole and not a "f*ckin' haole".

3 The part where he was telling me I couldn't handle it at 6 ft probably wouldn't be true purely due to size. It could be true because it probably would be be packed...but I am sure I could still make the easy deep water paddle to the reef. It was gut/chest high the day he told me this, overhead the day before. Great level of surfing the day before at the A peak (watching was fun) but more fun when I managed to pick a few off at the end of the reef. Got a lot more when I went out earlier the next day when it was smaller and it was just the two of us out there.

4 Like to think me being curious (about the reef fish), friendly (making small talk between sets), and staying on the secondary peak helped to differentiate myself from the other white guy. She definitely gestured something about me to the 4th guy who paddled out because after the initial glare I got (before he paddled up to her) and after he sent the other white guy in, he more or less ignored me until after he saw that I was not a rank beginner (when he gave me a friendly nod).

Good times.

Edit:

Found the original thread of me telling this story here (click).
 
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frontsidegrab

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 4, 2014
1,427
1,515
113
God, what I love about hawaii is that you have to be on-guard everywhere. Not in an overly defensive way. Just stay mindful and check yourself, which I think is a really healthy thing to do regardless. I miss that when i come back to mainland. Too many people getting away with ridiculous sh!t completely unchecked. Which makes them more likely to continue the behavior b/c they experience absolutely zero consequences for their actions.

Can we just "Make Bullying Great Again"?
 

JSC

Nep status
Mar 11, 2008
661
540
93
what I love about hawaii is that you have to be on-guard everywhere
Ummm - do you really want to live like that? On guard everywhere? In case there is a moment somewhere, somehow when you as a clueless, dumb haole are not demonstrating "proper respect" and get cracks as a result?

Most people would call that tyranny -

What does tyranny mean in simple terms?

1 : an act or the pattern of harsh, cruel, and unfair control over other people
 

PPK96754

Miki Dora status
Apr 15, 2015
4,683
5,824
113
77
Kauai's north shore ~
I went to the Doctors the other day to get a referral and two of the male Doctors surf. I go into the one office, go through the Q & A's and then he asks what do I think of the crowds now days. Now this guy is in his late 50's / early 60's, haole guy, been on Kauai for a few decades, same for the other doctor. I just mumble that it is what it is now days and the Doc pipes up, "Man Pete, I miss the days when some aazz hole would get sent to the beach by Titus or Emery. That was five star fat shaming hard core getting sent to the beach" and the Doctor, he's got this fat ole grin going on. Cracked me the phuck up .... and expressed by a Haole.

I got my referral ...... a great phuggin chuckle .... and had a big ole smile going out the door.

Thanks Doc. Ya made mah day! :applause2:
 

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,565
2,383
113
Ummm - do you really want to live like that? On guard everywhere? In case there is a moment somewhere, somehow when you as a clueless, dumb haole are not demonstrating "proper respect" and get cracks as a result?

Most people would call that tyranny -

What does tyranny mean in simple terms?

1 : an act or the pattern of harsh, cruel, and unfair control over other people
Dont you live in Singapore?

You live in a society that bases its control over its citizens through harsh punishments disproportionate to the crime committed and uses brutal corporal punishment to keep citizens in line.

So what is the difference?

You get to live in a society where everyone is on guard cause of fear of corporal punishment. What diff it makes if the government is handing down the slaps?
 

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,565
2,383
113
1 Was at that spot not far from the monk seal which wasn't far from the hydropower station which I understand isn't that far from Pierce Brosnan's place on the northern side of Kauai.

2 Except for that tiny bit of Italian DNA that might help me look more tan than a Norwegian, like to think I am just a haole and not a "f*ckin' haole".

3 The part where he was telling me I couldn't handle it at 6 ft probably wouldn't be true purely due to size. It could be true because it probably would be be packed...but I am sure I could still make the easy deep water paddle to the reef. It was gut/chest high the day he told me this, overhead the day before. Great level of surfing the day before at the A peak (watching was fun) but more fun when I managed to pick a few off at the end of the reef. Got a lot more when I went out earlier the next day when it was smaller and it was just the two of us out there.

4 Like to think me being curious (about the reef fish), friendly (making small talk between sets), and staying on the secondary peak helped to differentiate myself from the other white guy. She definitely gestured something about me to the 4th guy who paddled out because after the initial glare I got (before he paddled up to her) and after he sent the other white guy in, he more or less ignored me until after he saw that I was not a rank beginner (when he gave me a friendly nod).

Good times.

Edit:

Found the original thread of me telling this story here (click).
was that an ebert SUP in the pic?
 
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oneula

Miki Dora status
Jun 3, 2004
4,363
2,710
113
been a weird couple of weeks

started off with a blizzard and 50 degree temps
266649535_1888764251308005_8913121734732523496_n.jpg

then we got this:


Yard man rubbah boot time


which always leads to this:

 
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Jeannie Chesser is going to be inducted into the East Coast Surfing Hall of Fame this coming January in Florida. She wanted to go but was worried about the cost.

A couple of weeks ago I get a call from Les that he’s going to get a big card from a novelty store and ask the dawn patrol regulars at Bowls, Rockpiles and Kaisers to chip in to help her with the expense and surprise her. So I hit up the duus in our Fantasy Surf club that surf Bowls and they all Venmo me money. Between the two of us and the dawn patrol crew we put together enough money to cover her airfare to Florida and back. Her long time boar sponsor HIC offered to cover her lodgings since they’re going to be there for Surf Expo at the same time. So Jeannie can go and not worry about her budget.

I thought it was super cool this morning. Les wanted me to give her the card but I told him you do it since you came up with the plan. Jeannie was super touched. She was tearing up, she cries when her friends win contests too. Haha.

It was great to do some crowd funding for something happy. It’s normally when something tragic happens. DDD57616-FD9D-45DB-AD67-F587B8DCFE74.jpegJeannie and Les. There’s two bottles of wine in the bag. It’s how Les made sure Jeannie was going to be at the beach for her surprise.

799DFFD7-3287-4D97-8FB7-D805BE8AEB33.jpeg

F33B30A4-BDBD-4637-879A-A0033AFE0DCB.jpeg