Hawaii- Done

frontsidegrab

Gerry Lopez status
Dec 4, 2014
1,238
990
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Dude come on, work with me here. We’re trying to preserve a spot. Won’t someone think of the children!?
bruddahs with shotguns dude, with a record. And if that ain’t enough, the next beach south is the gay pick up beach NTTIAWWT
Lol, trying to protect a spot ~5,000 miles away. most of us know that zone already. it's a shorter flight there than it is to you in NY for us on the west coast. Many of us are over there quite often.
 

mpequignot

OTF status
Nov 4, 2009
158
9
18
uncle you should be ashamed of yourself :roflmao: :p :shaka: :waving:
If it makes everyone feel better, I think my carpenter told me about the spot a month or two ago (I live on the island these days and own a house here). That said...he didn't tell me exactly where. And, I've been to the other place mentioned for sure. As for localism, I'll stand by what I always say...no one Hawaiian has ever given me trouble, vibed me, etc. The only times I've ever even had words in the water with anyone...they were either in California or Californians in Hawaii...so go figure. Ah...and some older caucasian lady screamed expletives at me (and told me to go back to the mainland) - in front of my three year old - because my wife asked her to control her dogs around my kids (an encounter I didn't even witness...she figured out who I was because of my kid). But I'm always polite, not greedy...and it doesn't hurt that I'm not small (by surfer standards especially...). Anyway...the particular day I saw it (probably on the way to the new Target) there were LOTS of cars. The one thing I won't do around here though is leave a car parked alongside the road anywhere near Anahola. Seems like they all get flipped upside down like toys. Quite amusing actually.
 
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Subway

Tom Curren status
Dec 31, 2008
10,039
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LBNY
If it makes everyone feel better, I think my carpenter told me about the spot a month or two ago (I live on the island these days and own a house here). That said...he didn't tell me exactly where. And, I've been to the other place mentioned for sure. As for localism, I'll stand by what I always say...no one Hawaiian has ever given me trouble, vibed me, etc. The only times I've ever even had words in the water with anyone...they were either in California or Californians in Hawaii...so go figure. Ah...and some older caucasian lady screamed expletives at me (and told me to go back to the mainland) - in front of my three year old - because my wife asked her to control her dogs around my kids (an encounter I didn't even witness...she figured out who I was because of my kid). But I'm always polite, not greedy...and it doesn't hurt that I'm not small (by surfer standards especially...). Anyway...the particular day I saw it (probably on the way to the new Target) there were LOTS of cars. The one thing I won't do around here though is leave a car parked alongside the road anywhere near Anahola. Seems like they all get flipped upside down like toys. Quite amusing actually.
I hear ya, and yes, even the local spots, if you give respect and paddle out with polite and deferential confidence, you should have no problems. I was just stirring the pot because I got grief talking about my own home island lol

spots got a great name that colorfully describes how shallow and dangerous even the locals feel it is
 

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
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Locals give you trouble if you paddle out where you never been and act like a moron.

If you think you gonna paddle out to anywhere in Hawaii and move to the peak and get the set waves if no one ever seen you before well…bumbai u learn
 

hammies

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Apr 8, 2006
7,876
4,517
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Locals give you trouble if you paddle out where you never been and act like a moron.

If you think you gonna paddle out to anywhere in Hawaii and move to the peak and get the set waves if no one ever seen you before well…bumbai u learn
Boy I wish it was like that here.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
22,298
4,131
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San Francisco, CA
Locals give you trouble if you paddle out where you never been and act like a moron.

If you think you gonna paddle out to anywhere in Hawaii and move to the peak and get the set waves if no one ever seen you before well…bumbai u learn
Most grief I've ever in the line-up on any of the Hawaiian Islands was from whitey telling me I couldn't handle the spot at 6 ft and it looked like I didn't belong there. It was apparent he was trying to establish that he belonged there and I didn't. Says some other stuff, but I just tuned him out since I was happy with taking the waves that went wide from the peak and that he could compete with the only other surfer at the main peak.

He then paddled to the other surfer and asked who her father was and where she lived. She said something like "How would you know my father?" Then gestured to the island when explaining where she lived. (Earlier it had just been she and I surfing there. She and I had spoken for a while earlier about the fish on the reef, how the swell had dropped from yesterday, her time living in California while attending university, etc., just small talk and being politely friendly.)

The three of us were joined by another surfer, who gave me a glare as he made his way up the reef. After talking to the other surfer, he then paddles over to whitey, gestures, and in goes whitey. Those two stay at the top of the reef, I stay further down the line, on the boil that 50% of the time shuts down the better ride. Figure it is best for me to get used to the clear water over the shallow reef on the borrowed board (thanks, PPK) on the 'B' wave before I go for the 'A' wave....the 'B' being much better than what I surf most of the time, I had zero problems with this set up.]

Time goes on, and after one particularly good set and long rides, the male and female surfers are paddling back up the reef, when the last (?) wave of the set swings wide which means I get a shot, and I make the best of it with small cover-up and clean kick out. This gets me a nod of appreciation from the male and a grin from the woman.

After about 2 hours or so, see some more people starting to paddle out, and it is time to go after one more wave. Not a long wait, and I end up taking a wave that shut down at the boil (from 'A' wave perspective) and get another quick/small cover-up and zippy kick-out, then long paddle in. Gets some smiles on the way in, probably due to me leaving, but I like to pretend my extremely minor display of nuanced surfing combined with my ever so fine office wetsuit pallor was that perfect juxtaposition that deserved a smile.
 
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bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
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Most grief I've ever in the line-up on any of the Hawaiian Islands was from whitey telling me I couldn't handle the spot at 6 ft and it looked like I didn't belong there. It was apparent he was trying to establish that he belonged there and I didn't. Says some other stuff, but I just tuned him out since I was happy with taking the waves that went wide from the peak and that he could compete with the only other surfer at the main peak.

He then paddled to the other surfer and asked who her father was and where she lived. She said something like "How would you know my father?" Then gestured to the island when explaining where she lived. (Earlier it had just been she and I surfing there. She and I had spoken for a while earlier about the fish on the reef, how the swell had dropped from yesterday, he time living in California while attending university, etc., just small talk and being politely friendly.)

The three of us were joined by another surfer, who gave me a glare as he made his way up the reef. After talking to the other surfer, he then paddles over to whitey, gestures, and in goes whitey. Those two stay at the top of the reef, I stay further down the line, on the boil that 50% of the time shuts down the better ride. Figure it is best for me to get used to the clear water over the shallow reef on the borrowed board (thanks, PPK) on the 'B' wave before I go for the 'A' wave....the 'B' being much better than what I surf most of the time, I had zero problems with this set up.]

Time goes on, and after one particularly good set and long rides, the male and female surfers are paddling back up the reef, when the last (?) wave of the set swings wide which means I get a shot, and I make the best of it with small cover-up and clean kick out. This gets me a nod of appreciation from the male and a grin from the woman.

After about 2 hours or so, see some more people starting to paddle out, and it is time to go after one more wave. Not a long wait, and I end up taking a wave that shut down at the boil (from 'A' wave perspective) and get another quick/small cover-up and zippy kick-out, then long paddle in. Gets some smiles on the way in, probably due to me leaving, but I like to pretend my extremely minor display of nuanced surfing combined with my ever so fine office wetsuit pallor was that perfect juxtaposition that deserved a smile.
What island was this and are you local or haole?

The people like the dude who bark are all talk and do it too people who they feel are vulnerable.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
22,298
4,131
113
San Francisco, CA
1 Was at that spot not far from the monk seal which wasn't far from the hydropower station which I understand isn't that far from Pierce Brosnan's place on the northern side of Kauai.

2 Except for that tiny bit of Italian DNA that might help me look more tan than a Norwegian, like to think I am just a haole and not a "f*ckin' haole".

3 The part where he was telling me I couldn't handle it at 6 ft probably wouldn't be true purely due to size. It could be true because it probably would be be packed...but I am sure I could still make the easy deep water paddle to the reef. It was gut/chest high the day he told me this, overhead the day before. Great level of surfing the day before at the A peak (watching was fun) but more fun when I managed to pick a few off at the end of the reef. Got a lot more when I went out earlier the next day when it was smaller and it was just the two of us out there.

4 Like to think me being curious (about the reef fish), friendly (making small talk between sets), and staying on the secondary peak helped to differentiate myself from the other white guy. She definitely gestured something about me to the 4th guy who paddled out because after the initial glare I got (before he paddled up to her) and after he sent the other white guy in, he more or less ignored me until after he saw that I was not a rank beginner (when he gave me a friendly nod).

Good times.

Edit:

Found the original thread of me telling this story here (click).
 
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frontsidegrab

Gerry Lopez status
Dec 4, 2014
1,238
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God, what I love about hawaii is that you have to be on-guard everywhere. Not in an overly defensive way. Just stay mindful and check yourself, which I think is a really healthy thing to do regardless. I miss that when i come back to mainland. Too many people getting away with ridiculous sh!t completely unchecked. Which makes them more likely to continue the behavior b/c they experience absolutely zero consequences for their actions.

Can we just "Make Bullying Great Again"?
 

JSC

Legend (inyourownmind)
Mar 11, 2008
357
218
43
what I love about hawaii is that you have to be on-guard everywhere
Ummm - do you really want to live like that? On guard everywhere? In case there is a moment somewhere, somehow when you as a clueless, dumb haole are not demonstrating "proper respect" and get cracks as a result?

Most people would call that tyranny -

What does tyranny mean in simple terms?

1 : an act or the pattern of harsh, cruel, and unfair control over other people
 

PPK96754

Miki Dora status
Apr 15, 2015
4,074
4,205
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Kauai's north shore ~
I went to the Doctors the other day to get a referral and two of the male Doctors surf. I go into the one office, go through the Q & A's and then he asks what do I think of the crowds now days. Now this guy is in his late 50's / early 60's, haole guy, been on Kauai for a few decades, same for the other doctor. I just mumble that it is what it is now days and the Doc pipes up, "Man Pete, I miss the days when some aazz hole would get sent to the beach by Titus or Emery. That was five star fat shaming hard core getting sent to the beach" and the Doctor, he's got this fat ole grin going on. Cracked me the phuck up .... and expressed by a Haole.

I got my referral ...... a great phuggin chuckle .... and had a big ole smile going out the door.

Thanks Doc. Ya made mah day! :applause2:
 

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,294
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Ummm - do you really want to live like that? On guard everywhere? In case there is a moment somewhere, somehow when you as a clueless, dumb haole are not demonstrating "proper respect" and get cracks as a result?

Most people would call that tyranny -

What does tyranny mean in simple terms?

1 : an act or the pattern of harsh, cruel, and unfair control over other people
Dont you live in Singapore?

You live in a society that bases its control over its citizens through harsh punishments disproportionate to the crime committed and uses brutal corporal punishment to keep citizens in line.

So what is the difference?

You get to live in a society where everyone is on guard cause of fear of corporal punishment. What diff it makes if the government is handing down the slaps?
 

bluemarlin04

Michael Peterson status
Aug 13, 2015
2,294
1,997
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1 Was at that spot not far from the monk seal which wasn't far from the hydropower station which I understand isn't that far from Pierce Brosnan's place on the northern side of Kauai.

2 Except for that tiny bit of Italian DNA that might help me look more tan than a Norwegian, like to think I am just a haole and not a "f*ckin' haole".

3 The part where he was telling me I couldn't handle it at 6 ft probably wouldn't be true purely due to size. It could be true because it probably would be be packed...but I am sure I could still make the easy deep water paddle to the reef. It was gut/chest high the day he told me this, overhead the day before. Great level of surfing the day before at the A peak (watching was fun) but more fun when I managed to pick a few off at the end of the reef. Got a lot more when I went out earlier the next day when it was smaller and it was just the two of us out there.

4 Like to think me being curious (about the reef fish), friendly (making small talk between sets), and staying on the secondary peak helped to differentiate myself from the other white guy. She definitely gestured something about me to the 4th guy who paddled out because after the initial glare I got (before he paddled up to her) and after he sent the other white guy in, he more or less ignored me until after he saw that I was not a rank beginner (when he gave me a friendly nod).

Good times.

Edit:

Found the original thread of me telling this story here (click).
was that an ebert SUP in the pic?
 
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oneula

Miki Dora status
Jun 3, 2004
4,208
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been a weird couple of weeks

started off with a blizzard and 50 degree temps
266649535_1888764251308005_8913121734732523496_n.jpg

then we got this:


Yard man rubbah boot time


which always leads to this:

 
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