Has surfing finally passed peak retardation?

Ranga

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 31, 2008
1,691
1,436
113
When I lived in SD I would often surf alone at a LJ reef break that was way too funky/shallow/weird to attract attention most days (but is now famous for the 20 days a year it gets good). I'd get at least one drainer most of the time, usually alone or with some boogies. I always looked for that one gem among the wonk to get me out there, knowing it would be worth it if I could line one up. I had a weird fetishy pervy relationship with it. Kinda fun working out the less obvious nuances of a complicated spot, and on those rare occasions when it was good knowing where too be.

I surfed a lot of overlooked spots on off-swell days-- I could always find something that looked fun.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,265
10,465
113
33.8N - 118.4W
I paddled out last week on a shitty day at a shitty break, thinking I'd at least get some solitude. I waited and waited for a decent wave, thinking about how grateful I was that there was no one there to fight me for it. It finally came, and as I was taking off, two grown men I'd never seen before , who'd sort of snuck up behind me while I was enjoying the human-free view to the west, made to drop in on me and blocked my path, like right in my face. I was forced to choose between straightening out or running right over them. I chose the path of nonviolence, although I may have yelled a bit. Neither of them caught the wave. They told me they'd been surfing there for a long time and knew what they were doing, completely oblivious to how badly they'd screwed up.

I paddled to the next peak, which was occupied by some douche surf instructor and his three pupils, all of whom were sitting on their softtops facing the beach. They were totally in the way of anyone trying to catch a wave, and had zero chance of catching any waves themselves, butwhen I gently suggested that maybe they should be facing the waves, not the beach, because it's safer, they just looked at me with the blank uncomprehending stares of farm animals who have been presented with an algebra equation.

I am well and truly over it. I say there needs to be an outbreak of beatings, stabbings, tire slashings, unkind graffiti and maybe a murder or two, because at this point going surfing to try to have fun is a pointless endeavor. This is war.
Mickey Munoz, when asked how he deals with the crowds, said something to the effect, "...all it takes is one good turn."

That's kind of my attitude these days. Mine is maybe, "If I get a couple waves where I can link a couple good turns..I'm good."

My expectations are pretty low and therefore my sessions usually exceed my expectations.
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
8,464
4,647
113
Ribbit
I don't tell myself I'm going surfing anymore.

I just think, I'm going to have a paddle around.

Then if I get a wave, great.

Officially quitting really helped my state too.
I quit "Surfing" even before Surfing became sit in the way of the wave rider and obstruct the best part of the face to execute a full rail turn.

Took up that Wave Riding thingy; turns out, I'd been doing "that" all along, who knew?

:unsure: