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Mickey Munoz, when asked how he deals with the crowds, said something to the effect, "...all it takes is one good turn."I paddled out last week on a shitty day at a shitty break, thinking I'd at least get some solitude. I waited and waited for a decent wave, thinking about how grateful I was that there was no one there to fight me for it. It finally came, and as I was taking off, two grown men I'd never seen before , who'd sort of snuck up behind me while I was enjoying the human-free view to the west, made to drop in on me and blocked my path, like right in my face. I was forced to choose between straightening out or running right over them. I chose the path of nonviolence, although I may have yelled a bit. Neither of them caught the wave. They told me they'd been surfing there for a long time and knew what they were doing, completely oblivious to how badly they'd screwed up.
I paddled to the next peak, which was occupied by some douche surf instructor and his three pupils, all of whom were sitting on their softtops facing the beach. They were totally in the way of anyone trying to catch a wave, and had zero chance of catching any waves themselves, butwhen I gently suggested that maybe they should be facing the waves, not the beach, because it's safer, they just looked at me with the blank uncomprehending stares of farm animals who have been presented with an algebra equation.
I am well and truly over it. I say there needs to be an outbreak of beatings, stabbings, tire slashings, unkind graffiti and maybe a murder or two, because at this point going surfing to try to have fun is a pointless endeavor. This is war.
HEY MAN, SHARE THE STOKECruelty towards kids and beginners
outlaw leashes and surf cams
kidnap slater, kill him on tv
I quit "Surfing" even before Surfing became sit in the way of the wave rider and obstruct the best part of the face to execute a full rail turn.I don't tell myself I'm going surfing anymore.
I just think, I'm going to have a paddle around.
Then if I get a wave, great.
Officially quitting really helped my state too.