Greg Griffin RIP

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,630
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33.8N - 118.4W
All of my boards have “speed edge” (except last two) single concave and flat. Boards seem quick to plane and responsive. Personal I think these details are small incremental difference, not massive leaps. That said they add extra work, questionable as to whether or not worth the effort. Esthetically very pleasing, but keep your rail volume down
imho
Are you going to continue with rounded or hard edges? I tried my last mid length with soft edges and then my most recent short with hard edges. So much going on with both but I think I like the hard edges better. Only ha one decent surf on the short board and then it went flat. I haven’t surfed at all the last two + weeks….
 
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need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
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@One-Off
I'm going to continue with the more traditional hard edge start a shaka in front of the fins. Besides easing production, monkey see/monkey do is setting in. There must be some reason the vast majority of well seasoned shapers have settled in as this being the most advantageous design. I've only had one session on the new bat tail I just finished, this one is the closest in design to the former, that it would be the best comparison (although there're some differences)
 
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One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,630
11,015
113
33.8N - 118.4W
@One-Off
I'm going to continue with the more traditional hard edge start a shaka in front of the fins. Besides easing production, monkey see/monkey do is setting in. There must be some reason the vast majority of well seasoned shapers have settled in as this being the most advantageous design. I've only had one session on the new bat tail I just finished, this one is the closest in design to the former, that it would be the best comparison (although there're some differences)
Why do you say the hard edages add additional work? Are you doing a resin dam the full length? Even when I do full length hard edges I only do a resin dam to the shaka in front of the fins. Beyond that the hard edge is just in the shape.
 

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
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Yes I cast a resin dam full length and its a lot of extra work for the finish sander to change his SOP (I keep it in the shape too)
 

SixtyGrit

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 3, 2015
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SD
Why do you say the hard edages add additional work? Are you doing a resin dam the full length? Even when I do full length hard edges I only do a resin dam to the shaka in front of the fins. Beyond that the hard edge is just in the shape.
In my experience, getting the hard edge without a small dam is difficult, due to the small radius of the glass, and the subsequent sanding. I tried unsuccessfully.
 
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One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,630
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33.8N - 118.4W
OK. Maybe I need to start describing mine as "relatively hard full length edges." :roflmao:


My difficulty always has to do with the resin either draining out of the dam or pooling due to accelerated tail rocker. Trying to do a dam the whole length of a board would have to be done in stages? How would you keep resin at the nose from draining out?
 
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need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
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We set the tail fairly level and except the nose “run off”. The dam holds enough resin over the rest of the board. In my experience
 
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One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,630
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33.8N - 118.4W
We set the tail fairly level and except the nose “run off”. The dam holds enough resin over the rest of the board. In my experience
So you do nose to tail in one pour? Kwik Kick? I usually level at the fins and get a little draining out the front and a little pooling at the swallow tips. I might try the fulllength in one pour. My boards are so labor intesive anyways....
 

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
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We "paste" before hot coat(Poidog trick) this helps in build up and pin holes , because we're basically doing two hot coats. Just the second is done before the first one cures, timing is the key. Clear boards get fin area, rail edge,and stringer/centerline. Mine pretty much double hot coat because of the glassing schedule and cut lap
 
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One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,630
11,015
113
33.8N - 118.4W
We "paste" before hot coat(Poidog trick) this helps in build up and pin holes , because we're basically doing two hot coats. Just the second is done before the first one cures, timing is the key. Clear boards get fin area, rail edge,and stringer/centerline. Mine pretty much double hot coat because of the glassing schedule and cut lap
I’ve heard the term “baste” before, like basting a turkey- a real thin coat on the laps before hotcoating. So you tape off the full rail at the tuck (to create edge), then a light hot coat, then a normal hot coat? Do you pull the tape off the edge before the second hot coat? And re tape?
 

need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,782
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SoCal
I’ve heard the term “baste” before, like basting a turkey- a real thin coat on the laps before hotcoating. So you tape off the full rail at the tuck (to create edge), then a light hot coat, then a normal hot coat? Do you pull the tape off the edge before the second hot coat? And re tape?
Funny ,my glasser, calls it paste. The two hot coats happen back to back, the time in between is to allow to gel. So depending on temp its maybe an hour or so. We don't need to pull tape.
 
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Tanner

Phil Edwards status
Jul 30, 2003
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Point Loma
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Honestly miss the 5 fin shortboard he made me. Have no idea who I sold it to or where it is. :(

If it was in good condition, I would want that ONE back.
This weekend, I may or may not have asked my friend to 'borrow' my old 6'1 mini longboard from GG that I sold to him after he rode it a few times and begged me to sell it to him............which I have always regretted doing :foreheadslap:
 
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Oct 17, 2022
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To continue with Greg Griffins designs and pass that knowledge so that it is not lost....

at swaylocks they posted measurements taken from a Griffin 6.2 shortboard step up......and a 5.6 Modfish