Late 60's -post -blood cancer death sentence still living in Nias and pulling in!
#goals
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Geezers who surf.
- Thread starter casa_mugrienta
- Start date
Late 60's -post -blood cancer death sentence still living in Nias and pulling in!
#goals
Major props if he's pulling into that nugget paddling out
This geezer twin finin crumbly Lanis yesterday
59. while not geezer, i don't have aboard over 6'4" at the moment. well, a 7'11" that is for the big stuff, but damn, those paddle outs are getting a bit longer!
Remember down in my area....late 90s early aughts.....the person fun with hardcore bee and twins was big
I don't know why erBBers are obsessed with how short their boards are? Just because you surf a shorter board doesn't necessarily mean you're ripping or surfing better than a guy on a longboard. Can't a geezer rip on a longboard?
it’s a relative marker for general fitness in older age. For sure dudes rip on longer boards. But being older and still being able to choose a shorter board and surf well is sort of a Holy Grail for many surfers.
No.
Haha. Nah Lance Hookano is 60 or 61 so borderline geezer and he rips on a longboar. Saw him go vert switch stance, when he rode out even he was surprised he made it. There are a couple other older guys that can still throw their longboars around but it’s not that common.
I asked the question but admit I'm guilty of the same mind set. My DD was a 6-0 up to 2 years ago. Then a back injury intervened and I've been riding a 6-6. We had a good run of swell the last couple weeks and I took out a trusty old 7-4 and was surfing so much better. As long as its head high there is still enough room for me to do the turns I want to do.
I'm not a geezer but I am approaching 40. Last year I started adding a little more foam to my boards and my surfing has never been better. I don't ride boats but I worked with the shaper to add a little more foam here and there to get properly fitted for a board.
I also have a 7'0 shortboard and sometimes it is awesome to paddle out and carve nice big lines. I've always appreciated that type of surfing vs the twitchy surfing you see a lot of today.
I also have a 7'0 shortboard and sometimes it is awesome to paddle out and carve nice big lines. I've always appreciated that type of surfing vs the twitchy surfing you see a lot of today.
Surfing when you’re over 70 is an exercise in frustration. Although that can apply to anyone who’s not young. Any surf-spot that’s old guy friendly like Malibu, Rincon, or Swamis is almost always packed with surfers that refuse to give you a wave. I guess you’re thinking there’s miles of open beachbreak, why dosen’t the geezer just find and open space and take off on close outs? I’ve seen most of the old guys surf and it’s pathetic to watch but I would be pretty stoked if it was me.
