Geezers who surf.


Gerry Lopez status
Dec 31, 2008
Bob Rotherdam and his crew of rippy geezers are still pulling in over Big Momma on little boards . . .
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Miki Dora status
Oct 11, 2009
Won't be riding anything over 7' as long as I'm not a lifeless corpse
I'm sort of feel the same but it's more of a practical matter than principle. I like turns - loose, skatey, Carver-like turns and I can't do those on a longboard. I never learned how to crank a longboard turn properly and probably never will and even if I did, it wouldn't feel like a shortboard turn. A few months ago, I picked a locally-branded 6'6" version of the INT hybrid foamie - epoxy board with real rails and a foam has increased my wave count considerably on smaller days, without sacrificing the wiggle. Otherwise, the longboarders would surf circles around me in crappy surf. So it goes :waving:
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Miki Dora status
Jan 14, 2002
One winter day in the mid-nineties there was only two of us out at our inlet in cold head high bowls and wedges. 20 something me and one of the older local guys, he was 45 and blowing the backs out, taking off behind the peak and driving through wave after wave. I caught probably one to his three but decided all over again that was gonna be me.
I'll be 52 in a couple months and rarely have those days but occasionally I have a pretty good day. I surf every swell on the funnest board I have for the day in question.
Thaks Jeff!