Geezers who surf.

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
10,334
4,942
113
33.8N - 118.4W
"I was never a ripper, but I'm a swooper." :cheers:

Just got back from a surf. I have to remember, now that I'm retired, that there is no point in going really early. It was wall to wall people at 6:30am and then cleared out around 8:15- 8:30.

Saw an old friend. He's a ripper. I'm a swooper. He's still ripping, I'm still swooping. We talked about our aches and pains and the need to get in shape for the upcoming winter. Geezer talk I guess...
 

SeaFoamGreen

Gerry Lopez status
Apr 10, 2009
1,078
432
83
NorOR
Cool vid. I can only hope I am still in good physical shape when I retire to surf a wave like G Land. Just gotta keep surfing mostly crap waves and traveling until I can relocate again once my kids go through HS. One thing I noticed with skating was as soon as I stopped skating on regular basis I lost a lot quick.
 

santacruzin

Phil Edwards status
Oct 17, 2007
7,489
5,974
113
valley purgatory
wish i could wait till 8ish during the week. the surf school crowd is killing me at first light.
been doing the paddle out in dark thing due to fucking work. Normally prefer "loser hour" 9:30-11:30 when everyone who works is working. That is shot now due to covid vanlife fucker, seems with the cold less people are out early now.
 

CutnSnip

Miki Dora status
Sep 11, 2018
3,961
3,879
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
been doing the paddle out in dark thing due to fucking work. Normally prefer "loser hour" 9:30-11:30 when everyone who works is working. That is shot now due to covid vanlife fucker, seems with the cold less people are out early now.
yea not cold enough around here yet. surf schools galore - they pretty much just float around and chit chat with their friends but its a slalom course on the inside. I paddled out at 6:30 this morning, still dark and there were already 30 groms just floating around out there.