for Front footed Surfers

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,789
12,402
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in da hood next to paradise
That's not what I said.

I'm saying one of the main reasons they're popular is because they're what people are more accustomed to and one of the reasons is they're way easier to sell. For a person's first standard shortboard it's gonna be easier for them to catch waves instantly on something with low entry.

Hand them a moderate entry board after that and they're gonna say "This thing sucks, it pushes water."
is ci flyer low entry?
 

ckupczynski1

OTF status
Oct 14, 2009
277
110
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I rode one of Brad Gerlach's boards with this bottom back in the day and for me, it's more about generating speed than initiating a turn. I didn't love the board, but that was probably due an equal part the board's super flat deck and boxy rails and not just the bottom contours.
I think that was his ysrq or something like that model back in the day. I just saw he redid that design and is kinda promoting it but right now he’s stacked with a mid length channel twin he just came out with.
 
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Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,150
23,058
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PNW
Moderate entry and relatively flat tail from the looks of it.
Yeah that seems right. By todays standards the entry rocker of the OG flyer would be moderate to high even? It's been like a decade since I've ridden them but if memory serves the Flyer didn't paddle or catch waves amazingly relative to a modern lower entry board but they had a lot of drive once up and riding and held speed through turns due to low tail rocker.

As Greg is alluding to these words low and high are vague and inexact but as a surfer it's one of those things where you know it when you feel it.
 

Badger_Badger

Nep status
Mar 28, 2011
870
164
43
Wrong side of the tracks Leucadia
yo @Badger_Badger you get that Bullet? How’s it go?
Sorry, haven’t logged in for quite a while.

The Bullet performs as advertised from knee high to head high. Even though it’s 5’7” it catches small or weak waves and still is fast and loose. I’ve been using his NVS quad template almost exclusively and it’s got that lively feeling just on the edge of out of control that’s really fun.

It came in handy after not surfing the first few months of Covid and It’s really all I’ve ridden this summer since N. county has seemed extra fickle this summer.

I just picked up a 6’6” Townsend round tail that needs to get wet ASAP.

My quiver ow consists of mostly Albums and it is the most dialed I’ve ever had at one time. Every single board from Matt I’ve clicked with and going from the Insanity to Bullet there’s no need to change up my approach.

l’ll try and get a group pic this weekend.

Here’s the Bullet for now:
5’7” x 19.8“ x 2.3“
me 5’11” X 155 lbs
 

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ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
270
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Big Asian Island
get the muchacho moon beam. that look very ff. mist rob muchachos boars seem ff
+1 My fav boar to date as a fronty driver sufer. Very fast and fun turns with the Muchacho twin keel. Ghost is also a fav when waves get to be decent.
 
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surfapotomus

OTF status
Jan 21, 2014
176
78
28
on a leash
Just wanted to share my opinion on the Haydenshapes' Untitled for front footies. I used it for two sessions (two day rental from Awayco). I usually ride around 28L and this was 26.84L (5'7" x 19 1/4" x 2 5/16") in Futureflex (epoxy). I wouldn't have wanted any more volume. The board felt just right.

Yesterday, I rode it in waist to chest slightly bumpy beachbreak with some fairly hollow sections and it was pretty meh. The board didn't really have any zing and I felt I was pretty off my game. I couldn't seem to get to sections as quickly as I would have on my normal Chilli Nevada (non HP).

Lo and behold this morning we had really fun waist to head high really hollow windswell. The board was extremely fast on both my forehand and backside and was pretty controllable in the lip and into/out of reverses. The few time I really tried to push hard on my forehand bottom turns, I felt it losing some grip and had to back off since it felt is was close to spinning out. I haven't ridden Futures in years and was running HS2 Generation tri set.

I think I'd be happy renting the board if I was on a trip somewhere, but pretty sure I won't be purchasing one, since it seemed like it was only above average in above average waves.

Side note, Greg Browning's son Parker was out this morning and was in Waco at the wavepool recently with his dad. Parker has a pretty solid air game, but he was nailing pretty much everything this morning, with lots of barrel to air combos. Looked like Waco is a very good practice center.
I've found the Untitled V2 to be a very unfriendly board for front footed surfing. It took me 4 sessions to figure out that my normal mode of surfing just wasn't working. I finally changed my approach to drive harder off of the fins and the thing lit up! Once the board got going it was epic.

CI's have always worked well for me. The old Rob Machado model from the mid 90's. The Pod Mod, Fred Rubble, B/W, and OG Flyer all clicked from the very first wave (B/W and OG Flyer were demos). I'll probably get an OG Flyer or Neckbeard for my next one.

I'm curious about the HS White Noiz since I live close to the shop in smell segundo and Ando is such a front footed surfer.
 
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Apr 6, 2015
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CI's have always worked well for me. The old Rob Machado model from the mid 90's. The Pod Mod, Fred Rubble, B/W, and OG Flyer all clicked from the very first wave (B/W and OG Flyer were demos).
Picked up a huge Fred Rubble I've been riding lately, and it's very front foot friendly. Catches wave very easily, large sweet spot, turns great, extremely fast. Amazing board for someone with my bad habits, very forgiving and non-judgmental...

I've realized the main problem I cause myself with over-weighting the front foot is doing it too much on drops. Can work okay if taking off sideways (angled takeoff), in order to get up and pumping quickly. But I need to concentrate on breaking the habit on steeper drops. Causes bog at the bottom, and overly drawn out turns. Or worse.

For example, I managed to get into and make the drop on a rather top to bottom, pitching wave on Sunday, maybe a foot overhead. I got to the bottom (admittedly with some surprise - I made that?), and then leaned into my bottom turn. But I leaned too far forward, and hit some side chop at precisely that moment, which sent me sprawling over the nose of my board.

I watched that MR video that was posted earlier in this thread again, and it clearly explains why that happened. Had I kept more weight on my back foot, or even just shifted my weight back a bit to hold a more balanced stance, I'd have kept the nose up and sling-shotted up to the lip (as I'd intended).

Poor habit, that. Hopefully one I can break with some concentration.
 
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