Foil Session Logs

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,141
601
113
Malibu, CA
Where are you getting all these boards surfdad? I'm contemplating a new board to downsize from my 4'8". Maybe 4'4".
 
Mar 20, 2019
126
93
28
I recently got a 4'3, its great for pumping but my older 4'7 is way better for catching waves. Already looking for something a lil bigger than this 4'3
 

juandesooka

OTF status
Jan 12, 2009
302
240
43
Experimental session.

1. Tried MFC foil....wow, so fast, super tight turning. Feels like new sharpened skates on a fresh sheet (Canadian analogy eh). Though I'd be worried about longevity in the conditions we ride. This thing is too beautiful to be owned by me.

2. Dug out my diy 4.11 for another try. It works, fun once up, but slightly lower volume than ideal for paddling...bit of a slog. I copied Armstrong board, but an inch narrower and cheated a little with narrower rails...I think I lost 5L foam that I need. Would be an excellent board without 20lbs of neoprene I figure.
 

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,141
601
113
Malibu, CA
So hard to do anything on this wave at this size. I look like a kook on this one, but here is some content I guess. Easier than typing a report.

 
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sozzle

Michael Peterson status
Feb 23, 2009
1,927
179
63
www.youtube.com
south west UK, lots of bumps and current, no pump runs but always tons of power for the height of the wave (sometimes too much).
 

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,141
601
113
Malibu, CA
Been out of the water for about 5 months. Had to work a bit North today so I threw a foil in the car. Went to an open stretch of beach break. A suprising number of people on the beach. All well spread apart, but normally that beach is a ghost town.

The foil didn't disappoint. Making the terrible waves pretty fun. It took about an hour before the surf stoke came back. Got a few connection turns on the 2 for 1's that felt real good. One real good speed line through three sections.

Nothing amazing, but I guess I'm back in the water?
 

sozzle

Michael Peterson status
Feb 23, 2009
1,927
179
63
www.youtube.com
I got in the first time for 4-5 weeks, only a handful of waves where I didn’t chew the fvvk out of the rocks, glad gong wings are tough as shït, amazing how good a few nice full rail roundhouses can make you feel.
 

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,141
601
113
Malibu, CA
As you guys who have been out of the water get back in, tell me what you feel. Do you find it's easier to get back on a foil after a break, than it is to get back on a surfboard after a break?

Sure it took me a few waves to get my feet back in the right spot. First three waves I let my self fall early to be safe. But overall, in that session I felt I was back to where I should be. On a surfboard it takes a few sessions to get back to where you should be after a month+ out of the water.
 
Mar 22, 2020
145
104
43
As you guys who have been out of the water get back in, tell me what you feel. Do you find it's easier to get back on a foil after a break, than it is to get back on a surfboard after a break?

Sure it took me a few waves to get my feet back in the right spot. First three waves I let my self fall early to be safe. But overall, in that session I felt I was back to where I should be. On a surfboard it takes a few sessions to get back to where you should be after a month+ out of the water.
You are lucky, looks in France we still have to wait 2 weeks, which is 2 months !!

I will tell you, but I have a new foil to try and a new board, so exited but at the same time I don't know if for my first sess I will try this new setup.
 

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,141
601
113
Malibu, CA
La county is still closed. I mostly surf in Ventura in the winter anyway. Oxnard never closed their beaches except for on Easter weekend. I stayed out for about five weeks. Work has kept me busy so it hasn’t been to bad. My five year old has been saying we haven’t been to the beach in awhile.

I feel for you frenchfoiler. Like I said though. Foiling came back real fast. You’ll be back on it in no time.
 
Mar 22, 2020
145
104
43
Hdip moaning about no content so i made this...

some waves from a session a few weeks back at my local rivermouth, one of my favourite foil waves, 99% of the time i'm out there alone.
gong pro large wing (circumsized), chopped standard tail wing.

Nice, rivermouth can be good for foiling if it gets wide open and deep, it creates the perfect rolling wave we are looking for.
 
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sozzle

Michael Peterson status
Feb 23, 2009
1,927
179
63
www.youtube.com
As you guys who have been out of the water get back in, tell me what you feel. Do you find it's easier to get back on a foil after a break, than it is to get back on a surfboard after a break?

Sure it took me a few waves to get my feet back in the right spot. First three waves I let my self fall early to be safe. But overall, in that session I felt I was back to where I should be. On a surfboard it takes a few sessions to get back to where you should be after a month+ out of the water.
yup, def feel like foiling is more mental sharpness compared to surfing being very physically memory oriented on top of that.
first couple waves yesterday felt weird but after that is was full go time.
 

sozzle

Michael Peterson status
Feb 23, 2009
1,927
179
63
www.youtube.com
Nice, rivermouth can be good for foiling if it gets wide open and deep, it creates the perfect rolling wave we are looking for.
they aren't that wide really compared to some places you see but they're good for unbroken swell riding that's for sure, the power to height is always good in the rivers compared to beach breaks i find, funny how we look for good energy in foiling over shape in surfing.
 

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,141
601
113
Malibu, CA
Alright so the private beach that is good for foiling in Malibu. I don't think I posted this in the other thread when I talked about it. So here goes.

It's an outside reef that breaks, backs off and runs to the right for as far as you can possibly want to go. I don't like paddling all the way back so I've been playing around with different strategy's. Plus I'm goofy foot. So I've been trying to learn the left off the top. It's into the wind and against the current. I've never seen another foil try to go left out there actually. They're all regular foot though so it makes sense. I found a line last year to connect a left and pump back out to get a right.

Few days ago was the first time I've been out there this year. Tried for it. Caught a left. Made a section. Got a pump out with speed. But it's into the current so I was slowing down. Made the turn back outside and turning downwind I slapped the water once. But since I had turned downwind I got some bumps to get my speed back up. I had to pump at what looked like totally dry reef. White water broke and I had to turn around early because I didn't want to try and do a white water rebound. White water hit me and I held on, got some speed and was off to the races. The right is pretty fast. Made it to the next spot down and there was a shortboarder looking at the wave. I decided to go low road around him in the flats. This let him spin around and take off behind me. I shoot past him, look back and see he is on the wave behind me. I stay way out in front, but that means it's harder on my legs as I have to work a bit harder. Make the next section and will have to start pumping, but my back leg was burning already. So I made it to the next spot down and just before I could get there my legs let me down and I slap a rail and have to touch down.

Pretty fun connection though. Probably a minute up on foil. Seeing mr.bennets stay up for 3+ minutes at a time is mind boggling. Although I did do a pump run after a guy on a armstrong 1550 and the high aspect wing made him double my distance so there is something to be said for the high aspect stuff. Maybe I should buy that lift high aspect.

I'm hoping for wind tomorrow. There was wind today but it was a walk the beach with the kids day so my wife can have an afternoon off to do get things done around the house, so I didn't take my wing with me. This whole home school thing is tough.

Edit: This spot. So imagine this wave, but I know what I"m doing now. Plus I went left first, then pumped back to a deep take off spot. Then I fell right before the camera pans away.

 
Last edited:
Feb 10, 2019
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You're riding really low in the water. It seems like at times you're barely hanging on to the wave, and I'm thinking that if you had less mast in the water you'd not be having any trouble at all. Same goes for pumping by the way, the secret to conserving energy is staying as high in the water as you can - less drag, less effort.
 

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
3,141
601
113
Malibu, CA
See youtube title and my comment in the edit. That was my fifth month foiling. There's no surf cams down there so I have no other footage of the wave. I just put that there for context on the story. Some guy randomly filmed it one day and I saw him again the next day and he gave me his email so I could get the clip.