Here's a spot where you can brag about your recent sessions. Talk some story, relieve the pressure in your head, so you don't bore your non-foil friends and family quite so badly. It doesn't have to be profound -- after all, we're all semi-bored, wasting time playing on the interweb, so we may as well tell some like-minded folks how your day went. Post a pic if you got one or a video, it's all good.
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Foil Session Logs
- Thread starter juandesooka
- Start date
I'll start things off: arrived yesterday to junky low tide waves, unsure if it's worth the bother or maybe keep driving. Decided to just suit up and paddle out, then the sets starting piling in. Long interval, so it's flat in between the 5-10 minute action flurries. Low tide was a bit pitchy, hard to make the drops, but as the water filled in it got that perfect smooth takeoff, just enough to get you moving then backs off to a long unbreaking wall ... basically unsurfable but a perfect foil wave. Sunday funday.
Here's a photo of a small one ... worthy because my buddy, who is just on the verge of rocking the surf foil, dropped in for the tail end. Apologies for I am the sweeper.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bv-0AiXh_f5/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Here's a photo of a small one ... worthy because my buddy, who is just on the verge of rocking the surf foil, dropped in for the tail end. Apologies for I am the sweeper.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bv-0AiXh_f5/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
At about 20 waves in, I finally got some long rides where I felt I could control the lift and not breach or kickflip. Going straight down the line has never felt so satisfying.
Best part was passing bumpy lowers packed w 30 guys on my way to surfing w nobody else out.
Best part was passing bumpy lowers packed w 30 guys on my way to surfing w nobody else out.
I like this part too. I've been surfing my regular spot and there will be 30 guys out in the morning, then they all get out when low tide rolls around and I'm out there by myself on a foil. So nice.ghostshaper said:
I am visiting my mother in Puerto Escondido. As I am too weak/lame/old/scared to chase the tubes at zicatela and too over it to fight the crowd at La Punta, I decided to use my week to tackle surf foil. So far, about 100 sessions on sup foil, time to get on the prone program.
Not really a great location for this project. The only wave that works is Carrizalillo. First couple sessions with 15" mast and H2 wing. Once up on foil, it felt natural, the challenge is in riding a shortboard again, as I am embarrassed to say I mostly sup and longboard for the past 10 years.
Day trip to Chacahua, got my first real rides. On 15" mast, would breach immediately in the bigger waves, so went to 24" and got a couple good long rides, 15-30 seconds, with long hot walkbacks after. Felt pretty great up there with a comparatively tiny board (5'x20" vs 7.6' sup). Better paddle fitness will be needed for sure, compared to sup. So far I am only taking off in white water, the faces are too pitchy to make at this stage.
If any of you get down to Oaxaca, Chacahua is a surf paradise that may be epic for foiling ... low tide had really fun regular surf, as tide came up it got fat, but long walls and sections that are hard to make on surfboard but I bet more makeable on foil. This will require a return visit!
People here have never seen foils ... a lot of beach time spent showing it to local surfers and explaining it ... they have seen the videos. Next year there will be more.
Not really a great location for this project. The only wave that works is Carrizalillo. First couple sessions with 15" mast and H2 wing. Once up on foil, it felt natural, the challenge is in riding a shortboard again, as I am embarrassed to say I mostly sup and longboard for the past 10 years.
Day trip to Chacahua, got my first real rides. On 15" mast, would breach immediately in the bigger waves, so went to 24" and got a couple good long rides, 15-30 seconds, with long hot walkbacks after. Felt pretty great up there with a comparatively tiny board (5'x20" vs 7.6' sup). Better paddle fitness will be needed for sure, compared to sup. So far I am only taking off in white water, the faces are too pitchy to make at this stage.
If any of you get down to Oaxaca, Chacahua is a surf paradise that may be epic for foiling ... low tide had really fun regular surf, as tide came up it got fat, but long walls and sections that are hard to make on surfboard but I bet more makeable on foil. This will require a return visit!
People here have never seen foils ... a lot of beach time spent showing it to local surfers and explaining it ... they have seen the videos. Next year there will be more.
Last 3 days I've been out. Today was half the size as the previous 2. Nothing to special to note. I've figured out how to get 2-1's at one of my regular spots where I couldn't do it at all last year, so that's fun.
Today as I caught my wave in I didn't notice Laird off in the distance coming out on his E-foil. As I was doing the rock dance in with my board upside down and foil in the air, He is passing by on the outside to keep going to the next couple spots down the beach. I'm watching him go by and he waved. So, basically I'm best friends with Laird Hamilton now thanks to foiling.
Today as I caught my wave in I didn't notice Laird off in the distance coming out on his E-foil. As I was doing the rock dance in with my board upside down and foil in the air, He is passing by on the outside to keep going to the next couple spots down the beach. I'm watching him go by and he waved. So, basically I'm best friends with Laird Hamilton now thanks to foiling.
Officially into the mysto reef realm today.
Rolled up to a spot I've been scoping for awhile, but too many people on all sorts of craft in the lineup. Spotted a bombie breaking about a 1/4 mile away and opted to check it out. As I rolled up I could see someone bobbing in the lineup on a familiar board, now I'm out there!
Paddle out was mellow, but once in the lineup it was quickly apparent the swell was just jacking on a random outcrop of reef. Takeoff was either a roller or a straight drop. Clock was ticking, so only had a few cracks at getting into it, buddy got one to shore but I got passed up as i got up on foil on the one legit wave I caught.
Looking forward to tomorrow.
Rolled up to a spot I've been scoping for awhile, but too many people on all sorts of craft in the lineup. Spotted a bombie breaking about a 1/4 mile away and opted to check it out. As I rolled up I could see someone bobbing in the lineup on a familiar board, now I'm out there!
Paddle out was mellow, but once in the lineup it was quickly apparent the swell was just jacking on a random outcrop of reef. Takeoff was either a roller or a straight drop. Clock was ticking, so only had a few cracks at getting into it, buddy got one to shore but I got passed up as i got up on foil on the one legit wave I caught.
Looking forward to tomorrow.
I hit top speed on my 2017 Naish Large today several times. Just me for an hour, then Laird joined for the next 2 hours. He was still out when I left. Trying to take the same lines he does was crazy. I couldn't keep the foil in the water a bunch of times because I was just going to fast. Real fun session. My last wave was equal to my longest rides out there. Laird was doubling that distance.
We talked a bit. He's on his 7 foot something SUP with front and back foot straps. Foil science, their medium wing he said. He didn't seem to know what the dimensions were. He said he only switches wings when he goes to the smaller one to tow foil big waves. He did say his nephew is involved with foil science and claimed they're better than GoFoil. He doesn't like the "twitchiness" of GoFoil, I asked if it was the flex in the mast he agreed with that statement, but I'm not sure if that's what he was actually referring to.
These words came out of his mouth today. "I'm in consumption mode, I just want to catch as many waves as possible and ride them for the longest distance possible." HAH! Laird being Laird. It was fun to see him eat it on a drop, even if he did claim he hit a big bunch of kelp.
We talked a bit. He's on his 7 foot something SUP with front and back foot straps. Foil science, their medium wing he said. He didn't seem to know what the dimensions were. He said he only switches wings when he goes to the smaller one to tow foil big waves. He did say his nephew is involved with foil science and claimed they're better than GoFoil. He doesn't like the "twitchiness" of GoFoil, I asked if it was the flex in the mast he agreed with that statement, but I'm not sure if that's what he was actually referring to.
These words came out of his mouth today. "I'm in consumption mode, I just want to catch as many waves as possible and ride them for the longest distance possible." HAH! Laird being Laird. It was fun to see him eat it on a drop, even if he did claim he hit a big bunch of kelp.
I was suprised looking at the foilscience.com website that the wing he's using is so small. He's a big guy. But, the waves were overhead yesterday so that makes up for the small wing I guess. About to head back down now.
Pretty sure this is the wing he was using. "The 116 (1160 sq. cm surface area at 25.5" span) wing is optimized to fly in a wide range of conditions. This makes it ideal for surfing, wake surfing and kiteboarding."
Pretty sure this is the wing he was using. "The 116 (1160 sq. cm surface area at 25.5" span) wing is optimized to fly in a wide range of conditions. This makes it ideal for surfing, wake surfing and kiteboarding."
how the hek are you getting to mystos?...you hane a gate key? ....or park at big dume and walk down the stairs and paddle a mile south? ....take me!
I know some people. Grew up in Malibu. Still good out there today. I was getting destroyed through one section. Going full speed as a boil would make the wave stand up and section. It felt like I was trying to go over a shipsterns bluff step in the wave. Real fun.
2 day's ago, just Laird and me. Yesterday, no key I had to walk in, just one other foil. Today, myself, 2 other foils, then when I was changing the guy from yesterday was going out, and when I left a foil in a truck was driving down. So I guess foils are showing up. It's gonna get crazy out there, but maybe it'll be until next year when all those rich guys finally buy in.
2 day's ago, just Laird and me. Yesterday, no key I had to walk in, just one other foil. Today, myself, 2 other foils, then when I was changing the guy from yesterday was going out, and when I left a foil in a truck was driving down. So I guess foils are showing up. It's gonna get crazy out there, but maybe it'll be until next year when all those rich guys finally buy in.
I can see the benefits of the sup foil. Mostly in paddling back out the long distance. And a bit on the drop of the bigger sets. Only laird is on the sup foil though. Everyone else is prone.
Interesting observation. Prone foils dominate the CA spots. I wonder if other spots tend to be the opposite? Around here (Vancouver Island), there's too few to say, but it's mostly SUP so far. Me and a buddy, and 1 or 2 others starting out.Hdip said:
I am attempting the transition to prone foil, for the freedom of movement the smaller board will allow. But facing the reality check of paddling fitness. There's a reason I've been mostly longboarding and SUPping past 10 years, and it isn't because they are more radical. ;-) Once I am competent at prone foil and getting equivalent rides, I anticipate getting quite a few less waves per session, as I can paddle back literally twice as fast on my sup (unless I am in a spot where walk backs are easy). Though better rides once on them and maybe, just maybe, if learn to do the pumping effectively, that'll even things out. We'll see.
Anyways, back to thread topic, Session Logs: got nothing to share, entering the flat season, no more big storms to funnel swell down the JDF Strait. Nearest consistent surf is 5 hour drive. Kiting and boat foil training instead.
