Foil or surf?

surfdad

Tom Curren status
Jan 10, 2002
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Surf has been pumping in my parts and difficult to foil so I have been surfing. Crazy thing. I kinda want it to be a little smaller so I can foil. haha lol. I'm so hooked on foiling right now it's all I really want to do. It's been fun to go back to a surfboard although I've had some bumps in the road. My surfboard feels so unstable side to side and I pearled my first few waves haha. probably due to heavy front foot habit from foiling. The crowds have been insane and looking forward to small days where i go foil basically alone.

Anyone else?
 
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Clamsmasher

Billy Hamilton status
Apr 22, 2013
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I stopped surfing for 2 years on the back of an Indo trip. I just couldn’t face the local crap after having my mind blown.

I didn’t want for anything else for a long time (Except maybe winging) but it started getting to me and I finally went back to it a few months ago. In the end it was very weird, almost like learning again, but within a week or so I’d clocked up some turns and tube time which I sorely missed.

Now I’m having the same thing with prone foiling LOL. I know it’s going to be ugly so Im a avoiding it.
 

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
2,974
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Malibu, CA
I stopped surfing for 2 years on the back of an Indo trip. I just couldn’t face the local crap after having my mind blown.

I didn’t want for anything else for a long time (Except maybe winging) but it started getting to me and I finally went back to it a few months ago. In the end it was very weird, almost like learning again, but within a week or so I’d clocked up some turns and tube time which I sorely missed.

Now I’m having the same thing with prone foiling LOL. I know it’s going to be ugly so Im a avoiding it.
Yup. Foiling turns 1 foot slop into an Indonesian boat trip.
 
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ghostshaper

Miki Dora status
Jan 22, 2005
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I'm going on 18 months of no regular surfing. Haven't missed it, yet. Especially since I live in one of the most crowded places in S CA (trestles) and can go foil w/ almost nobody around.

As soon as I get an efoil setup up and running, I'll foil the outer reefs that are 5 min from my house and only see whoever I take out with me.
 
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grendel95

Billy Hamilton status
Nov 1, 2005
1,522
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Foiling has ruined surfing for me.

Been on a surfing kick lately, even picked a couple "new to me" boards. I still have the stoke after a session, but during I'm internally grumbling, so crowded, crumbly, no power...
 

ghostshaper

Miki Dora status
Jan 22, 2005
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Ruined my streak and paddled out in crowded close outs at Trestles. Over it. Seriously looking at figuring out the easiest/best way to ride the outer reefs and never deal w all the wavestorms/longboards/parking again.

Forgot: as a sign, I saw some idiot on an efoil buzz past the whole lineup headed up the coast.
 

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
2,974
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Malibu, CA
If that’s actually your buddy learning he’s in for a world of hurt. Terrible foil wave. Gonna be near impossible to learn in that.
 
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Clamsmasher

Billy Hamilton status
Apr 22, 2013
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One of my old surf pals is trying foiling these days.
First effort left a bit to be desired.

View attachment 103648

Take care.
Hey Hump,

Tell him he needs a fairly gutless crumble breaking over a wide area. Waist high would be ideal. Really just enough to push him forward and be there while he fumbles with the balance.
 
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Hump

Miki Dora status
Jan 10, 2002
5,315
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Vancouver Island
Thanks for the input from you experienced guys. I'll give him a call and pass it along. Helps to get advice from others when a beginner for sure. Appreciate it.

Take care.
 
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Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
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Malibu, CA
Send him here, foil.zone or standupzone forums. Lots of advice and people willing to answer new questions.

Initial advice for him. Ignore the sets. Go for insider crumbly ones. The flatter the face, the easier it is.
 

Hump

Miki Dora status
Jan 10, 2002
5,315
120
63
Vancouver Island
Follow up: So I got hold of him earlier and mentioned the pic I posted and the advice received from a few of you guys and after I'd finished talking he said" Too late. It's for sale."

Turns out he didn't think it through very well and the board is way too small for him, in his opinion after trying it out, and with regular surfing, SUP surfing, wake surfing and his other activities like skateboarding, skiing etc. he thinks foil board surfing isn't that high a priority. By the way, he's 58 years old and has hung drywall for years so is in really good shape. So is his girlfriend.

Kellydrywall.jpg


Take care.
 
I am right with you surfdad (great name btw cuz I'm one too). I am in northern california where it has been absolutely pumping for the last four weeks - double overhead or bigger, and way too big for foiling (even surfing) unless you want to drive 1.5 hours+. Problem is, I am hell bent on learning to foil but there is way too much juice for that, and being a surfdad too I don't have time to do a 3-hr round trip! Me cry :cry:
 

juandesooka

OTF status
Jan 12, 2009
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I am right with you surfdad (great name btw cuz I'm one too). I am in northern california where it has been absolutely pumping for the last four weeks - double overhead or bigger, and way too big for foiling (even surfing) unless you want to drive 1.5 hours+. Problem is, I am hell bent on learning to foil but there is way too much juice for that, and being a surfdad too I don't have time to do a 3-hr round trip! Me cry :cry:
"Luckily" for you then that the N Pacific is reverting back to more normal patterns. ;-)

Unfortunately, around my locale this means a return to scratching for surf and frothing out over quite marginal forecasts. It has been a really nice couple of months....best PNW surf in 20 years. And now for the detox ... but lucky indeed to be a foiler, we don't need much, will still get ours hopefully
 
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