Ya brah, and they all sux.didya know SB comes in different temps too??
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Ya brah, and they all sux.didya know SB comes in different temps too??
Barbarian Days? Great bookI believe it was "Waves and Beaches" which was originally written by Bascom, but the newer edition by McCoy. I have not read the latest edition to comment if recent scientific improvements of nearshore processes are included.
My buddy just sent me Finnigan. I look forward to reading it.
Kento have you tried 5x yet works good on warm daysMy feet have slid way too many times with Sex Wax to the point it's caused mental doubt.
You can't apply SB on a hot day as it will slough the old wax off more than adding new. Easily averted by dipping the board in cold(er) ocean first. And in my wax-based OCD, yeah, I usually add a little extra and comb it pretty deep so it is very sticky. Well, until I mash those ridges down while paddling.
Not sure; maybe?Kento have you tried 5x yet works good on warm days
Not sure; maybe?
I see a long stretch of cold water wax in my future.
Its cold/cool works great daily top coat I tried so far from 53-60 water temp.Gotcha - nope, haven't used that!
Right before I knew I was moving up here, I bought a whole bunch of warm and cool water wax. D'OH!
Yeah- my buddy's statement to me "Finnegan wrote about waves from an emotional point of view, but described the kinematics of fear wonderfully"Barbarian Days? Great book
Loved it. Shared it with a few non surfers who enjoyed it as well.I really enjoyed Barbarian days but I know a couple guys that surf that couldn't finish it. YMMV.
After the Ocean Beach part I started to get a little tired of it and put it down. The surfing descriptions were excellent though.I really enjoyed Barbarian days but I know a couple guys that surf that couldn't finish it. YMMV.
Finnegan's background as a pulitzer prize winning journalist certainly effects how and what he writes. He knows he's writing for both surfers and people who read the Atlantic or New Yorker. Aside from the obvious surf related things he's so good at writing about, I love his depictions of the blue collar neighborhoods and communities of Los Angeles and Hawaii that he grew up in. Blows my mind that his friend's dad could buy a 2nd house on the Newport pier on an average working class salary. Also love that he was a San Fernando valley surfer, since we're a generally lowly regarded breed. haha! What I find hilarious is that he spends this vast portion of his life dedicated to surfing, to the point where he abandons college and spends what little money he has to find new surf spots across the world, and yet emerges at the end of his adventures a world renowned journalist and writer. Maybe I'm raising my kids all wrong.After the Ocean Beach part I started to get a little tired of it and put it down. The surfing descriptions were excellent though.
surfing Potato Patch and other spots was harrowing. Enjoyed the first 80% a ton.
His introspection could get tedious at times but I did enjoy his analysis of his journey from his current point of view etc.
I know things are likely embellished a bit but if I had 1/10 of his ability to recall anything I'd be a writer as well. I cant even remember most of my waves besides key moments of terror or victory.
oh yea what are are we on about your wax sucks duu
All I know is you want a constant reduction in fin area (im learning here greg)
Thiccc fins cord foil wise probably mo bettah in less surf big dolphin generate speed mo grab less slice