I would be calling both of them especially if shaper sent you to the glasser. Tell them to send you a check. I don’t think “hey I handed you blank brah not my problem” quite flys.
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EPS board turned scratchy and white then started sweating
- Thread starter bluemarlin04
- Start date
Look how sloppy the cut lap was. Compare that to my other boards where the laps are extremely clean and don’t have threads hanging.
Not the biggest issue but kind reflects on the job as a whole of cutting corners
Here are some close up pics I jus took.
Can see what look like pin holes where I am assuming water got in.
I dont know anyone in Hawaii who charges these amounts - 750 for a shaped blank ? 800.00 for a glass job ?
Blank 65.00 - shaping 685.00 ?
800.00 for fine sand ?
Joe Demarco has gotten very good and can do the whole thing for half that , for you next board "Adventure" in Hawaii
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Honestly it was fine paying the shaper that. It’s an EPS blank and thick redwood stringer so the blank was more then 65.00 bucks.I dont know anyone in Hawaii who charges these amounts - 750 for a shaped blank ? 800.00 for a glass job ?
Blank 65.00 - shaping 685.00 ?
800.00 for fine sand ?
Joe Demarco has gotten very good and can do the whole thing for half that , for you next board "Adventure" in Hawaii
demarco surfboards (@demarco_surfboards) • Instagram photos and videos
2,250 Followers, 702 Following, 738 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from demarco surfboards (@demarco_surfboards)
I was hesitant to do the shaper/Glasser separate but figured it couldn’t be that bad.
They didn’t tell me the price of 800 for the glassing until after it was done and I was honestly not stoked at all on that but what was I going to do at that point? Not pay it?
I’ll never go this route ever again.
Look at this. Just sloppy. Not too mention the pin holes all over the glass.
Compare it to my Andreini or Davenport where the cut laps are clean and look good.
Like someone else said- sadly I think the board is done
What your seeing is the whitner in the Epoxy resin over a dark color - it makes the weave really show up
Leaking can be from not pressing the hot coat in then brushing smooth after in that process
How long is the board ?
Leaking can be from not pressing the hot coat in then brushing smooth after in that process
How long is the board ?
The board is an 8'0.
It is leaking a ton of water out of the bottom and the top is already delaming.
It is leaking a ton of water out of the bottom and the top is already delaming.
Holy Moly
The Shaper or Glasser or some combination need to make this right. Part of paying a premium is knowing the craftsmen stand behind their work. Proximity should be irrelevant at that price.
A few years back, I had a Florida shaper (legit craftsman) who had taken a shaped blank to a very reputable factory for glassing. Board came back with flaws (not shaper's fault). Shaper made it right. I've ordered at least four boards from the guy since. That's how it's supposed to work.
Yea.
I’m super bummed about this situation.
The board is just trash now. Leaking water out the bottom. Top delaming.
Would have rather just lit my money on fire or bought an electric bicycle.
I really liked this board too. Was planning on getting another.
1550.00 wasted. Ugh.
Sucks but that is life sometimes.
Color is a Foam Stain - which are very nice
Laps - strands and weave are showing due to the whitner in the resin over that foam stain below
Ok. Guess I was wrong.
But doesn’t fix the pin holes or water seeping out of my board.
I don’t even really care about the board turning white.
I do care about the fact it is water logged. I just walked out and looked and it’s jus seeping water
I do care about the fact it is water logged. I just walked out and looked and it’s jus seeping water
Sorry for your troubles.
Hind sight is always 20/20. Next time, if you're traveling and it's an 8ft board with a heavy stringer then there's no reason to use an EPS blank. If you get a ding while you're out on the road then the board turns into an anchor in 5 minutes flat.
I'd never do a dark color over EPS, either. Not unless I always kept it out of the sun except when I'm actually riding it (which maybe that's your plan). The dark colors just draw in more heat to an open cell core. If even a little moisture seeps in from a pinhole or a spot of open weave the additional heat basically boils it and converts it into steam that has nowhere to go but out. *Especially* if the board gets heated up by sitting out in the sun prior to being loaded into an unpressurized cargo hold of an aircraft.
For an 8ft travel board, epoxy over PU core will be a safe choice. They're not immune from the heat but the temperatures involved are a fair bit higher and they don't expand/contract as much as EPS. Plus, if you get a ding out on the road you can just tape it and deal with it later.
Hind sight is always 20/20. Next time, if you're traveling and it's an 8ft board with a heavy stringer then there's no reason to use an EPS blank. If you get a ding while you're out on the road then the board turns into an anchor in 5 minutes flat.
I'd never do a dark color over EPS, either. Not unless I always kept it out of the sun except when I'm actually riding it (which maybe that's your plan). The dark colors just draw in more heat to an open cell core. If even a little moisture seeps in from a pinhole or a spot of open weave the additional heat basically boils it and converts it into steam that has nowhere to go but out. *Especially* if the board gets heated up by sitting out in the sun prior to being loaded into an unpressurized cargo hold of an aircraft.
For an 8ft travel board, epoxy over PU core will be a safe choice. They're not immune from the heat but the temperatures involved are a fair bit higher and they don't expand/contract as much as EPS. Plus, if you get a ding out on the road you can just tape it and deal with it later.
Thanks @GDaddy
It’s not really travel board. Just a board I got made to bring to the north east when I moved cause I was going to be wearing 6 mil suit.
Had I known all this I’d have never got this shaped or bought this. I had no way of knowing and having a Glasser seperate from the shaper left me trying to understand this on my own.
Now I’m left with a 1550.00 paperweight.
I’ll prob end up throwing it in the dumpster.
Just went out and looked at it. Entire thing is water logged. Bottom is sweating out water. Looks like a cup full of water with ice in it. The entire deck is delaminated and soft.
It’s not really travel board. Just a board I got made to bring to the north east when I moved cause I was going to be wearing 6 mil suit.
Had I known all this I’d have never got this shaped or bought this. I had no way of knowing and having a Glasser seperate from the shaper left me trying to understand this on my own.
Now I’m left with a 1550.00 paperweight.
I’ll prob end up throwing it in the dumpster.
Just went out and looked at it. Entire thing is water logged. Bottom is sweating out water. Looks like a cup full of water with ice in it. The entire deck is delaminated and soft.
Sorry for your loss. Really sorry. It's even worse when considering you paid a mondo premium for it. With that said, I think the board could be salvaged. Even the deck. It will never be the same, but it could turn out okay.
I don't have pics of them, but I've repaired a couple boards that were semi-buckled and had major water damage to the deck. I cut/strip the damaged portions of the deck glass off, sand down until I get to clean foam, then put a veneered deckpatch with reinforcement under and then sand/glass the entire deck with another layer of 4oz. Fill the weave on the deck but leave it raw except for the rails. Sand the bottom and reglass that with another layer of 4oz. The additional glassing will add maybe as much as 2# to the board but that's not necessarily sooo bad for an 8ft board. It's not like you were planning on doing any airs on it.
On boards with cracked/broken stringers I've routed in half-depth stringers on either side of the main stringer to reinforce it (like they do with longboard finboxes in stringerless blanks). On boards with heave water damage under foot I've even routed out the damaged foam and glued in a "plug" of clean foam (from an old donor board) to fill the cavity; shape that down and glass it. A couple times I've even used a heavier foam for the deck plug than the original blank.
A long time ago I had one midlength with an EPS core - several guys on this forum have surfed it - where I had some water damage. I dried it out to remove most of water and added another layer of 4oz to both the bottom to seal it. Then I added another layer to the deck because having surfed it a few times prior to the water damage I decided the board had been too light to begin with for what I was trying to do with it. The added weight actually made that particular board surf better. That may not apply to your board, but the point I'm making is to not rush to quickly to write the board off.
I don't have pics of them, but I've repaired a couple boards that were semi-buckled and had major water damage to the deck. I cut/strip the damaged portions of the deck glass off, sand down until I get to clean foam, then put a veneered deckpatch with reinforcement under and then sand/glass the entire deck with another layer of 4oz. Fill the weave on the deck but leave it raw except for the rails. Sand the bottom and reglass that with another layer of 4oz. The additional glassing will add maybe as much as 2# to the board but that's not necessarily sooo bad for an 8ft board. It's not like you were planning on doing any airs on it.
On boards with cracked/broken stringers I've routed in half-depth stringers on either side of the main stringer to reinforce it (like they do with longboard finboxes in stringerless blanks). On boards with heave water damage under foot I've even routed out the damaged foam and glued in a "plug" of clean foam (from an old donor board) to fill the cavity; shape that down and glass it. A couple times I've even used a heavier foam for the deck plug than the original blank.
A long time ago I had one midlength with an EPS core - several guys on this forum have surfed it - where I had some water damage. I dried it out to remove most of water and added another layer of 4oz to both the bottom to seal it. Then I added another layer to the deck because having surfed it a few times prior to the water damage I decided the board had been too light to begin with for what I was trying to do with it. The added weight actually made that particular board surf better. That may not apply to your board, but the point I'm making is to not rush to quickly to write the board off.