East vs. West

ghost_of_lewis_samuels

Michael Peterson status
Oct 27, 2019
3,279
2,140
113
OK. I take back my comment about 1 foot. One of the most magical moments I've had surfing was at 1 foot Mailbu First Point. I actually really like small winter days because you can get it with no crowd. One morning after a long flat spell the waves were knee high. The water was crystal clear. At a certain point the sun came up and the low raking angle made the cobblestones glow under water. Cruisng for 20-30 yards over glowing cobblestones was mind bending.
sounds great.
 

elcalvo

Michael Peterson status
Mar 16, 2004
3,222
309
83
NE
OK. I take back my comment about 1 foot. One of the most magical moments I've had surfing was at 1 foot Mailbu First Point. I actually really like small winter days because you can get it with no crowd. One morning after a long flat spell the waves were knee high. The water was crystal clear. At a certain point the sun came up and the low raking angle made the cobblestones glow under water. Cruisng for 20-30 yards over glowing cobblestones was mind bending.
I agree 100%. I still remember the first time I somehow managed to put my old Gregg Noll into trim. Waves were barely big enough to ride but all of a sudden it was like the afterburners kicked in. Never forgot that moment. I consider it my first real ride. :waving:
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
23,152
5,274
113
San Francisco, CA
OK. I take back my comment about 1 foot. One of the most magical moments I've had surfing was at 1 foot Mailbu First Point. I actually really like small winter days because you can get it with no crowd. One morning after a long flat spell the waves were knee high. The water was crystal clear. At a certain point the sun came up and the low raking angle made the cobblestones glow under water. Cruisng for 20-30 yards over glowing cobblestones was mind bending.
Reminds me of one of the first time I surfed over a warm (and clear) water reef.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
11,239
6,091
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Reminds me of one of the first time I surfed over a warm (and clear) water reef.
My first surf in Hawaii was at Tunnels. It was so glassy and clear that I couldn't really detect where the bottom of the wave was. Also it freaked me out on the inside because I couldn't tell how shallow it was until the water started to deform over the coral heads. Time to kick out! :drowning:

That same trip, same spot, a big outside wave came through and I remembered reading something like, "In Hawaii, if you don't put your head down and go for it on a set wave, you won't get anymore waves the rest of the session." So I put my head down and went and the wave (well overhead) closed out. I had to straighten out. When I got back to the lineup a local paddled by and said, "You got to be careful out here, man It's shallow." That became my new mantra.
 

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
11,450
6,686
113
LBNY
Waikoko when the water is really clear puts on quite a show under your board. Especially when it’s overhead and low tide. I had a local say the same thing like One-off. Very well said and good intentioned, he could tell I knew what I was doing, but still cautioned about getting caught inside on a rising swell and a falling tide at that spot. Big wide reef, long painful walk if you screw up
 

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
20,282
11,971
113
Jacksonville Beach
Ben Gravy just rode the BAGGEST JERZ EV_AR
FOOLLY NEWARKING
three weaks ago.

Now you sweet and delicious bag of skittles wanna have a rag. Save it for June, July, and August.

And yes it has been consistent down here.
 
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Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
11,450
6,686
113
LBNY
Northeast was cold and pumping today.
Yea the one Friday I was busier than I had been all week. Saw how fun it got mid day. Kind of depressed about it TBH. On the phone with clients all afternoon, all the stuff I planned to do got pushed later and later.
 
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manbearpig

Duke status
May 11, 2009
26,281
7,068
113
in the bathroom
Yea the one Friday I was busier than I had been all week. Saw how fun it got mid day. Kind of depressed about it TBH. On the phone with clients all afternoon, all the stuff I planned to do got pushed later and later.
Definitely a classic afternoon clean up. A lot of times my favorite days. The low tide fcked with it a bit when it bottomed out but found a couple with my twin at my favorite spot locally.
 
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