This morning at a local beach break I was paddling for a wave then a guy a little more deeper spun around and started paddling too. I was on a groveler so I was up on the green part of the wave but this guy still kept going and popped up in the white water after the peak broke and was trying to pump to catch up with me. The shoulder swamped so I kicked out.
Did I drop in although he was closest to the peak and I was already riding by the time he was on his feet trying to work his way out of the white water? He was about 5 feet behind/next to me.
Anyway, it didn't look like he was going to make it so I went, rather than waste another wave on a lully morning sesh.
Did I drop in although he was closest to the peak and I was already riding by the time he was on his feet trying to work his way out of the white water? He was about 5 feet behind/next to me.
Anyway, it didn't look like he was going to make it so I went, rather than waste another wave on a lully morning sesh.