You’re the epitome of a surfer. Good on ya, seriously… GOOD ON YA!
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Do you still surf?
- Thread starter Tuffy
- Start date
24, and for some reason I am spending my time talking to 50 year olds on the erbb. Time well spent
Surf about 3x a week. Mostly post work and one weekend mission further of field. Just got a paipo so I can go out in 1 ft and still feel some speeed/serotonin
Surf about 3x a week. Mostly post work and one weekend mission further of field. Just got a paipo so I can go out in 1 ft and still feel some speeed/serotonin
I’ll occasionally ride them if it’s not shortboardable but I don’t get excited about longboarding.
Go with the flow, think for a moment those who went before you. These are the guys who helped/ surfing into its current state. Chill is good for your heart, trust me….
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Thank you. I’m trying to keep it up for as long as I can. I have a 15 minute stretch routine before every surf and most of my surfs are in the 2 hour range…can push it to 3 if the waves are really good, but I definitely feel it afterwards.
I’m also lucky to have a very understanding wife who doesn’t give me sh!t when I want to surf (I made my love for surfing crystal clear when we first met). We don’t have kids either, so that definitely makes it easier.
Over 40, so far the body hasn't been a limitation outside of the many surgery recoveries (ankle/hip/shoulder).
All that said, I moved to the east coast about 15 years ago so the forecast or lack there of is the biggest problem. We have our days, but there's barely enough surf through the summer to get ready for the good days. I got a 6',10" midlength last year for the smallest days but 90% of the time I'm on my 5'4" groveler or 6'4" step.
Adding mountain biking to my life has been huge for dry-spells, both mentally and physically
All that said, I moved to the east coast about 15 years ago so the forecast or lack there of is the biggest problem. We have our days, but there's barely enough surf through the summer to get ready for the good days. I got a 6',10" midlength last year for the smallest days but 90% of the time I'm on my 5'4" groveler or 6'4" step.
Adding mountain biking to my life has been huge for dry-spells, both mentally and physically
I really hibernate from surfing in the winter. Maybe once a month or a little more often when it’s mellow / clean / nice weather.
Generally in April > May the cadence picks up and I’m trying to surf at least once a week to shape up for summer. And yes California can have some long flat spells in summer but it’s just the most enjoyable time for me when the wetsuit isn’t required and beach days with family and friends are part of the lifestyle we choose.
Surfing to me is “active relaxation”. I don’t care to do it enough to push myself into well overhead waves, and I have no delusions or motivation to become a high performance surfer having started in my mid 30’s now in my mid 40’s. I have a great deal of respect for how difficult it is to get better at it and how sketchy the ocean can be in general. I’m best at ‘fixed sports’ where I can repeat the same thing over and over again at will. Surfing is so frustrating.
I always tell people, I hate surfing… but I plan to do it for the rest of my life.
Generally in April > May the cadence picks up and I’m trying to surf at least once a week to shape up for summer. And yes California can have some long flat spells in summer but it’s just the most enjoyable time for me when the wetsuit isn’t required and beach days with family and friends are part of the lifestyle we choose.
Surfing to me is “active relaxation”. I don’t care to do it enough to push myself into well overhead waves, and I have no delusions or motivation to become a high performance surfer having started in my mid 30’s now in my mid 40’s. I have a great deal of respect for how difficult it is to get better at it and how sketchy the ocean can be in general. I’m best at ‘fixed sports’ where I can repeat the same thing over and over again at will. Surfing is so frustrating.
I always tell people, I hate surfing… but I plan to do it for the rest of my life.
As for alternative craft, I’m a total Bodyboard geek although I don’t allow myself to ride them much because any water time I get I should be working on my stand up game.
Still, I could see me back on the boog more into my 50’s and 60’s just to get in the water. I love exploring new reef spots on a boog too, or hollow beach breaks.
Still, I could see me back on the boog more into my 50’s and 60’s just to get in the water. I love exploring new reef spots on a boog too, or hollow beach breaks.
Retired and surf whenever I want. No end in sight.
I’m pushing 60 soon, started on a raft in 3rd grade and will probably end up on one before it’s all over. I surf a lot because I am easily amused, good at it, live in a zone with lots of options, and will ride what ever board will make the day fun. Still have a few friends from middle school days that still surf too.
62 and surf every day if there’s waves. Still no problem riding short boards, though in recent years I’ve experimented with mid-lengths and have come to appreciate the unique qualities they offer. I think everyone should have one in their quiver.
John4surf is pushing 80? Dang. Congrats.
my uncle just turned 83. Sups. Swims. Fish. Clams. Hunts. Hung up bow for crossbow. Skis. He doesn’t paddle out in wetsuits anymore but any time air is above 70 and water above 50.
I’m over 40 and surf once a month minimum. Started logging to feel the ocean. Kids, work, life don’t allow to drop everything to surf 2-3x a week in the winter. Gotta get in.
my uncle just turned 83. Sups. Swims. Fish. Clams. Hunts. Hung up bow for crossbow. Skis. He doesn’t paddle out in wetsuits anymore but any time air is above 70 and water above 50.
I’m over 40 and surf once a month minimum. Started logging to feel the ocean. Kids, work, life don’t allow to drop everything to surf 2-3x a week in the winter. Gotta get in.
40. Surf a lot (everyday) when there is a swell but then grind at work or chill with kids when it’s sh!t. Unfortunately have a pinched nerve in neck and shingles at the moment so missing this S Swell and feel like I’m falling off (2 weeks since I surfed last). I think my guilt complex keeps me from quitting tho.
Also feel like I can’t quit because it’s the only thing I’m really good at. Not saying that to brag but more that it’s the only thing I have actually done for 10k hours.
52 pace myself these days - surf few times a week to stay in shape - all about being ready for A swell when it comes