DefrostedPooper—DONE

Dec 23, 2018
42
61
18
Venice California
I think adult learners can benefit from occasionally surfing a longer board. It’ll help learning to use the rails with purpose. And will definitely smooth out choppy style. Those really short wide tail boards seems like the drive is done off the fins and not engaging the rail enough. Just learning floaters and carve downs on a 6’4 or longer helps with fundamentals.
Definitely agree. taught myself to surf back in 2014 (I was 24, 5’8” 130lbs and clueless) watching those “how to” videos on surfline. Never even thought about surfing before because I watched a movie called “deep blue sea” (spoiler alert) when I was young and got traumatized when Samuel L Jackson got eaten. also thought surfing was for rich people. I skated a little before but mostly just as a cruiser. Walked into a rip curl store one day before I had to go to court to pay for a ticket i got for riding my bicycle past a red light(had saved up $1400 trimming the reefer). felt up a brand new CI #4 5’6” groveler dims and just remember the board feeling so sexy and smooth in my little asian hands even though I knew nothing about surfboards and surfing. Went to court and learned I had to pay $1000 for the bicycle ticket but the ganja made me say “fk it”. Didn’t pay the ticket and went back to ripcurl and bought the 5’6” #4 and a wetsuit when I knew nothing about surfing. First video I watched was “how to paddle like world champ Kelly slater”. Went surfing almost everyday (no car so I rode the metro bus with my surfboard at 5am everyday) and only surfed short boards (used to call longboarding “long boring”) for the first 2 years. (5’6 #4, 5’5 weirdoripper, 5’4 hypto, 5’3 couch potato, 5’0 tomo vanguard) started to diversify the quiver and added a 7’0 roundnose pintail single fin to the mix and learned that there’s tons to learn from each shape. Next board was a 90s 9’2” DT model T handshape with a glassed on fin (got lucky) and then a 5’2” CC fish shaped for rob machado. Learned how to bottom turn on a thruster, pump on a quad, manage speed on a twin, stay in the pocket on a single fin, and feet adjustment on a log. carver skateboards helped a lot too. not trying to brag cause I still consider myself a kook but, after 2 years people told me they thought i had been surfing all my life and these days I’ve been told I surf like Gerry Lopez, David nuuhiwa, Craig Anderson, or rob machado. Even had a lady trying to interview my self-conscious azz saying im going to be a legend :ROFLMAO: I just tell people I smoke tons of weed and just try to hold on and enjoy the ride. I still kook it up and learn something new every time I try a new shape. scored on a 6’10 CC flat tracker2.0 and learned to really drive off the rail. trying all those different shapes smoothed out my style. I see a lot of people making wrong board choices. Seems very misguided. Just my honest opinion but when people say “you need a bigger board”, I think it means a bigger board as in a longboard or a midlength that’s sized for someone your size. Not a 6’8” shortboard shaped for Andre the giant ripper. hard to feel the full potential of the board when it’s oversized. Sorry for the life story but i tried to keep it short.
 
Jan 14, 2020
136
84
28
Definitely agree. taught myself to surf back in 2014 (I was 24, 5’8” 130lbs and clueless) watching those “how to” videos on surfline. Never even thought about surfing before because I watched a movie called “deep blue sea” (spoiler alert) when I was young and got traumatized when Samuel L Jackson got eaten. also thought surfing was for rich people. I skated a little before but mostly just as a cruiser. Walked into a rip curl store one day before I had to go to court to pay for a ticket i got for riding my bicycle past a red light(had saved up $1400 trimming the reefer). felt up a brand new CI #4 5’6” groveler dims and just remember the board feeling so sexy and smooth in my little asian hands even though I knew nothing about surfboards and surfing. Went to court and learned I had to pay $1000 for the bicycle ticket but the ganja made me say “fk it”. Didn’t pay the ticket and went back to ripcurl and bought the 5’6” #4 and a wetsuit when I knew nothing about surfing. First video I watched was “how to paddle like world champ Kelly slater”. Went surfing almost everyday (no car so I rode the metro bus with my surfboard at 5am everyday) and only surfed short boards (used to call longboarding “long boring”) for the first 2 years. (5’6 #4, 5’5 weirdoripper, 5’4 hypto, 5’3 couch potato, 5’0 tomo vanguard) started to diversify the quiver and added a 7’0 roundnose pintail single fin to the mix and learned that there’s tons to learn from each shape. Next board was a 90s 9’2” DT model T handshape with a glassed on fin (got lucky) and then a 5’2” CC fish shaped for rob machado. Learned how to bottom turn on a thruster, pump on a quad, manage speed on a twin, stay in the pocket on a single fin, and feet adjustment on a log. carver skateboards helped a lot too. not trying to brag cause I still consider myself a kook but, after 2 years people told me they thought i had been surfing all my life and these days I’ve been told I surf like Gerry Lopez, David nuuhiwa, Craig Anderson, or rob machado. Even had a lady trying to interview my self-conscious azz saying im going to be a legend :ROFLMAO: I just tell people I smoke tons of weed and just try to hold on and enjoy the ride. I still kook it up and learn something new every time I try a new shape. scored on a 6’10 CC flat tracker2.0 and learned to really drive off the rail. trying all those different shapes smoothed out my style. I see a lot of people making wrong board choices. Seems very misguided. Just my honest opinion but when people say “you need a bigger board”, I think it means a bigger board as in a longboard or a midlength that’s sized for someone your size. Not a 6’8” shortboard shaped for Andre the giant ripper. hard to feel the full potential of the board when it’s oversized. Sorry for the life story but i tried to keep it short.
U wot m8?
 

FARTHAMMER

Nep status
Apr 19, 2009
870
27
28
Word from deforest is that you tagged him on some boardporn post on Instagram, he followed it to your account which was private, but had a link to your business website which is where he got the handsome photo. Not too much detective work...
1337 h4x0r
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
24,492
1,376
113
Petak Island
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say...

ANIMA is not DeforestedPooper.

ANIMA is actually an amateurish attempt to come off as Deforest.

In other words, not Deforest, but a troll account posing as Deforest.

The parlance just doesn't even come close.

I could be wrong.
 

sushipop

Gerry Lopez status
Feb 7, 2008
955
258
63
The Dagobah System
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say...

ANIMA is not DeforestedPooper.

ANIMA is actually an amateurish attempt to come off as Deforest.

In other words, not Deforest, but a troll account posing as Deforest.

The parlance just doesn't even come close.

I could be wrong.
I was thinking the same thing, but then thought it could be him trying to make it seem like someone who was trying to look like him but but not really him since he was not using exclamation points to try and throw us off of his trail but really is him but not him at the same time. And then I got a headache and started drinking.
 

Goodfish

Billy Hamilton status
Feb 22, 2014
1,463
183
63
I was thinking the same thing, but then thought it could be him trying to make it seem like someone who was trying to look like him but but not really him since he was not using exclamation points to try and throw us off of his trail but really is him but not him at the same time. And then I got a headache and started drinking.
I want this to be true, but I don't know what it is that I want...