deforest getting roasted on insta

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,279
9,875
113
eastside oahu
Duu. I started surfing in the 70’s. Rode single fins until Simon introduced the thruster in 1981. Flirted with twins and quads since then. Even some Rawson Bonzer bottoms. Never had the urge to go back. I’ve owned single fin nose riders but that’s for going straight. I wouldn’t get a single fin boar for performance surfing.

I do think riding a mid-length has benefits. You can’t flick it around like a tiny 5’4. A well designed mid has tons of speed. Helps with getting used to staying on rail for a longer carve or turn. Even stretching out a bottom turn feels sooo good.

Rode my 6’6 today on head high plus waves. One of the OG uncles had been telling me I look good on that boar and he wanted to see me surf it on bigger days. I told him I can and would. But I want to stay on shortboars until my miles expire and can always jump on a longer boar.

My two cents. Get a mid. A foot longer than your height. If you like twins get a twin. If you like quads or thrusters get that. Twin plus one. Single with side bites. Sure. But a single fin. No for me. YMMV.
 

ReForest

Miki Dora status
Oct 7, 2020
4,035
5,751
113
Duu. I started surfing in the 70’s. Rode single fins until Simon introduced the thruster in 1981. Flirted with twins and quads since then. Even some Rawson Bonzer bottoms. Never had the urge to go back. I’ve owned single fin nose riders but that’s for going straight. I wouldn’t get a single fin boar for performance surfing.

I do think riding a mid-length has benefits. You can’t flick it around like a tiny 5’4. A well designed mid has tons of speed. Helps with getting used to staying on rail for a longer carve or turn. Even stretching out a bottom turn feels sooo good.

Rode my 6’6 today on head high plus waves. One of the OG uncles had been telling me I look good on that boar and he wanted to see me surf it on bigger days. I told him I can and would. But I want to stay on shortboars until my miles expire and can always jump on a longer boar.

My two cents. Get a mid. A foot longer than your height. If you like twins get a twin. If you like quads or thrusters get that. Twin plus one. Single with side bites. Sure. But a single fin. No for me. YMMV.
Thanks Unko! I actually have a mid length twin that a friend shaped me. I gotta put a leash plug in it though. I'll start riding it and report back.

Single fin sound fun. But I get what you're saying. :shaka:
 
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Chocki

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Feb 18, 2007
8,391
9,785
113
Planet Earth
Duu. I started surfing in the 70’s. Rode single fins until Simon introduced the thruster in 1981. Flirted with twins and quads since then. Even some Rawson Bonzer bottoms. Never had the urge to go back. I’ve owned single fin nose riders but that’s for going straight. I wouldn’t get a single fin boar for performance surfing.
@joelfitzgerald has entered the chat

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Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,480
2,390
113
Ponto
Duu. I started surfing in the 70’s. Rode single fins until Simon introduced the thruster in 1981. Flirted with twins and quads since then. Even some Rawson Bonzer bottoms. Never had the urge to go back. I’ve owned single fin nose riders but that’s for going straight. I wouldn’t get a single fin boar for performance surfing.

I do think riding a mid-length has benefits. You can’t flick it around like a tiny 5’4. A well designed mid has tons of speed. Helps with getting used to staying on rail for a longer carve or turn. Even stretching out a bottom turn feels sooo good.

Rode my 6’6 today on head high plus waves. One of the OG uncles had been telling me I look good on that boar and he wanted to see me surf it on bigger days. I told him I can and would. But I want to stay on shortboars until my miles expire and can always jump on a longer boar.

My two cents. Get a mid. A foot longer than your height. If you like twins get a twin. If you like quads or thrusters get that. Twin plus one. Single with side bites. Sure. But a single fin. No for me. YMMV.
+1 on the "Never had the urge to go back."
Want more out of your surging? Then put more in. Action=Reaction type stuff.
 

jtourito

Nep status
Jul 29, 2024
801
739
93
Land Of Adult Learners
My main point if I must spell it out was pointing to solid rail to rail surfing on a single fin by some of the greats who did it then with pure technique "dead lift power surfing" because @ReForest was worried about size and volume of a board. The DH comments and others was opinion on style which I do not care for and prefer watching Bruce Brown videos for inspiration on a log and any mid shape MP is about as great as they come:cheers:
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,569
18,577
113
San Diego, CA
  • Haha
Reactions: ReForest