Thank god! I miss Marine Layer.
That snub nose twin looks like a good time!
That snub nose twin looks like a good time!
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Yes, it did, although that brief clip where he is on a square tailed board at about 1:10 in looked like it had more speed (is it a Neckbeard?) and of course he looked best on the HPSB when the waves started to warm up from about mid way in. I read the text blog first which added a nice bit of context to the video.Thank god! I miss Marine Layer.
That snub nose twin looks like a good time!
Probably the most relate-able pro surfer there isDidn’t watch the video, but read the blurb. Pretty entertaining really. Simple, but real. I particularly liked the contrast of surf session interaction with a kid transitioning to home with kids fighting. This quote also stood out:
“but trying to do airs at this hour is like waking up and doing gymnastics in a cold shower. Water trickled through the seams of my suit as I waited for a shitty little refraction off the jetty to connect with a meager 2 foot swell from the South Pacific so I can catch it and stand my fossilized body up on my surfboard and hopefully do a trick that I can post on my website.”
Actually looking forward to more.
I never realized this until you mentioned it. Marine Layer was epic and I loved following it.He's always been a trend setter (Marine Layer was a vlog really) so maybe this is where he wants to take things: everyday surfing clips.
Plus, lately, the reliability of his surf reports have been greatly influenced by the potency of the weed he’s smoking.
I still remember the first time I watched that turn at Haleiwa. It's been almost a decade and I've probably watched it more than 100 times out of curiosity. I'm still not even entirely sure what is happening no matter how many times I see it. It's just so completely mind blowing.Love his writing. He seems human, not afraid to show his mistakes, keeps wipeouts in his cut, but then he does something that no other humans can do on a board, and you realize he's a god.