Ever since a trip to eat at Trader Vics as a youth, I’ve been fascinated by Hawaiian/Polynesian history and mythology and I’m never gonna pass up a chance to learn something new so…
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Creepiest surf spots
- Thread starter casa_mugrienta
- Start date
They have some indigenous tiny people, like an island pygmy situation, where they use giant rocks that don't move as money. It's crazy, ask Aruka.Ever since a trip to eat at Trader Vics as a youth, I’ve been fascinated by Hawaiian/Polynesian history and mythology and I’m never gonna pass up a chance to learn something new so…
I think you’re talking about the menehune?
The Menehune of Hawaii – Ancient Race or Fictional Fairytale?
In Hawaiian mythology, the Menehune are said to be an ancient race of people small in stature, who lived in Hawaii before settlers arrived from Polynesia.
www.ancient-origins.net
Micronesians, actually. Looked it up.I think you’re talking about the menehune?
The Menehune of Hawaii – Ancient Race or Fictional Fairytale?
In Hawaiian mythology, the Menehune are said to be an ancient race of people small in stature, who lived in Hawaii before settlers arrived from Polynesia.
Thought menehune were kids?
Any empty stretch between Seaside and Moss Landing and points north. Not just for the sealife, but surfing alone in pounding beachbreak gives me pause. Also going out in Atlantic hurricane surf, as well as some big days here in SW France. One knock on the head and you're gone forever when you're 500 meters out the back on a 3-4 meter swell. No one can see you from the beach.
Two spots - mainly creepy spots just because of the conditions
Shipwreck Bay NZ - My second time here I drove from AKL after work in the dark (bad idea). Planned to hit it at dawn. Drove my beater rental car down the hill and started the walk around the point corner. 4M swell and stiff offshore winds (40km+), barely anyone out. Paddled out from the key hole and immediately get swept down the point and taking DOH waves on my head. Finally made it out the back and could not fight the sweep. I was thankful that it pulled me back to land.
West Coast Canada - Usually my home break. Risked going out there in the middle of the covid lockdown. All roads in closed, so me and a pal hiked the 2 mile road down. When we got there it was twice the size we imagined and not another living soul around. I felt so insignificant in the water as it pulled me left to right, and further out. Got some bombs, but was kind of worried about getting hurt and then having to hike up with a bum leg.
Shipwreck Bay NZ - My second time here I drove from AKL after work in the dark (bad idea). Planned to hit it at dawn. Drove my beater rental car down the hill and started the walk around the point corner. 4M swell and stiff offshore winds (40km+), barely anyone out. Paddled out from the key hole and immediately get swept down the point and taking DOH waves on my head. Finally made it out the back and could not fight the sweep. I was thankful that it pulled me back to land.
West Coast Canada - Usually my home break. Risked going out there in the middle of the covid lockdown. All roads in closed, so me and a pal hiked the 2 mile road down. When we got there it was twice the size we imagined and not another living soul around. I felt so insignificant in the water as it pulled me left to right, and further out. Got some bombs, but was kind of worried about getting hurt and then having to hike up with a bum leg.
These are the kind of stories I stick around for. Amazing stuff! Would love to hear more about both.
Not a creepy story but a funny story associated with the Shipwreck Bay trip. The air bnb I was staying at had its roof half blowing off bc of the high winds. Could hear old mate chasing sheet metal in the backyard and swearing his head off. Really nice guy and invited me in for beers with him and his family that night. Small world as his sister was the ex-wife of a client I was working for. He then proceeded to try to set me up with a leggy Russian girl who was around my age (late 20's), but not my type
Would've been impolite not to! Definitely did not make the dawn patrol the next day
Always hammer the hot Russian, and always go on the Lam afterwards. Name change, maybe some plastic work etc
Unrelated Russian story - 5+ years ago I was camping out at a reef in the northern part of the Philippines. For some reason people had set up a learn to speak English and surf camp, mostly occupied by Russians. Made no sense to me as the wave was a heavy barrel, shallow reef, and long paddle out. Most of the students came back with some nice reef tattoos
One night, my cousin, my friend and I were playing guitar and singing songs in a beach hut. We were approached by the Two of the Russians. The guy told us "We bring to you, one of our women" and left the girl with us. She smiled and was missing about 5 teeth. My friend still did the deed and then got mad at me for not waking him up in the morning for high tide
Aside from the teeth, how was the rest of her?Unrelated Russian story - 5+ years ago I was camping out at a reef in the northern part of the Philippines. For some reason people had set up a learn to speak English and surf camp, mostly occupied by Russians. Made no sense to me as the wave was a heavy barrel, shallow reef, and long paddle out. Most of the students came back with some nice reef tattoos
One night, my cousin, my friend and I were playing guitar and singing songs in a beach hut. We were approached by the Two of the Russians. The guy told us "We bring to you, one of our women" and left the girl with us. She smiled and was missing about 5 teeth. My friend still did the deed and then got mad at me for not waking him up in the morning for high tide
Getting back on topic @r32 will like this one
Isolated rivermouth wave, heavy fog that gives me the creeps. Usually a bit wonky, but have got it a few times where its been absolutely magic. You have to cross aboriginal land and the reserve is not in the greatest of condition. Check the wave, not working, go surf someone else. In the pub later that night, this guy bursts in to the bar profusely bleeding from his head. Told us that he got jumped on the beach (by the rivermouth) and the people tried to have their way with his gf.
2 months after that, they found a burnt out car on that beach with a body in the trunk. (Drug/Gang related)
Isolated rivermouth wave, heavy fog that gives me the creeps. Usually a bit wonky, but have got it a few times where its been absolutely magic. You have to cross aboriginal land and the reserve is not in the greatest of condition. Check the wave, not working, go surf someone else. In the pub later that night, this guy bursts in to the bar profusely bleeding from his head. Told us that he got jumped on the beach (by the rivermouth) and the people tried to have their way with his gf.
2 months after that, they found a burnt out car on that beach with a body in the trunk. (Drug/Gang related)
Weirdly i wasnt spooked at tunnels... i also loved surfing the bowl but 1-2 days after i left someone apparently got bit by a smallish tiger out there
Inverness is 13 miles inside Tomales Bay. If there was a peak breaking in there I would be completely spooked.
Before any of you guys get excited, RRM is unbelievably, maddeningly fickle. It might break a few days in a given season. The bar needs the right river water levels to exist, the right breach point along the beach to exist, the right swell conditions to exist (one big swell will rip out all the sand), and then the right swell, tide, and wind need to come along while the bar is there and before the next bigger swell destroys it. It's also impossible to tell how the bar will be without going out there to look at it - there's no "oh, the river is at a higher flow, must be time to hit up the RRM." I think in the 6+ years I lived in Sonoma County I surfed it a dozen to maybe two dozen times.
In fact, pretty much all of Sonoma County is fickle. There are some decent waves up there, but if you don't live there you're not going to score them unless you get exceptionally lucky.