Creepiest surf spots

rice

Duke status
Jul 2, 2002
24,304
1,801
113
CA
Also, for me, it's more to do with the weather. If it's a clear day, and I can see the ripple lines in the sand top to bottom, I feel better. If it's overcast, maybe some fog, maybe some drizzle, it's front and center on my mind. I am pretty sure you don't give half a f--k, but that gloomy, lower visibility thing SCREAMS "throw topwater" at anyone who fishes, because that's when violent, surface polaris attacks are more likely throughout the day vs dawn/dusk.

Between the entire bit from Jalama -> North firing on the regular in Fall/Winter, places that are offshore with a southerly with a storm approaching, and places that are offshore on a NW, then the Channel Islands, I don't buy this.
:D
 

rice

Duke status
Jul 2, 2002
24,304
1,801
113
CA
Channel Islands? Moore's? A friend of mine recounted surfing there and how scary the long paddle to and from the boat was. He said he was sprinting back and forth and never felt safe .
Those last 10 yards paddling back to the boat are the worst.:shark:
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,128
10,250
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Anybody ever do shark jumping?
I worked with a guy from Belize. He said they would wait until sharks got close to their boat and then cannonball them. He did mention you don't want to do the same shark twice because the learn.
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,261
4,656
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I used to get creeped out surfing Blacks as a grom.

I could tell a better, longer version of this story, but it amounts to:

12-13, still riding my first real surfboard (My one and only Mabile). It would be a mid-length now, but it was just a big shortboard. too big, and probably why I surf the way I do now.

Did the coastal drive checking spots from Oceanside to Torrey Pines in 2 cars with a buddy of mine and our dads (There may have been 5 of us). My dad was the most skilled of all of us, but was a kneeboarder. Dude loved getting barreled. My friend and I were still finding our feet. The homie's dad was not very good. Kind of a fumbly, straight down the line guy. This was my first time seeing Blacks and as we pulled up to the Glider Port and Blacks was in full swing. Crazy triangle peaks coming together, plenty of people, sunny and glassy. We packed up and headed down the goat trail.

The trail itself was creepy. Halfway down with a backpack half my size carrying a 6'10", and I was sliding all over on the sandstone trail that didn't feel wide enough at all for zig zagging and shimmying down.

On the beach, it's wide open with towering, crumbly cliffs on one side and bombing peaks on the other. It was the first time I saw what one would describe waves that broke "below sea level". I couldn't see the bottom of the wave from the beach over the white water in front of it and it freaked me out. As we walked from the South end of the beach, I saw a large, 250+ dude nestled up by the cliff in construction boots stand up, turn around, and watch us walk by. He was only wearing construction boots...

We set up, I put my stuff down, dad's frothing and I've got butterflies. The old many looks around and tells all of us to pick our stuff up and move it closer to the water. He'd explain further right before we paddled out. "If you go in, don't sit against the cliff because you'll die. If you hear something, run toward the water". This is when I realized that the piles of earth next to spots against the cliff were landslides and cliff erosion that happened in realtime. I'd hear, years later, of all of the tragic fatalities from people that weren't given this lesson.

We paddled out, It was probably 6-8 feet, but it felt waaaay bigger. It was perfect. I saw my dad and another kneeboarder thread some barrels at the peak and wrestle some late drops while I managed to paddle out with my hair dry and sit far out of position. My friend paddled for some in betweeners and I sat far out the back.

An hour in, my dad paddles over and realizes I'm haired out. He tells me to paddle in and offers to paddle part of the way with me. We start and 10 strokes in I look over my shoulder and my stomach drops. A big black set swings through the canyon and fills the horizon. I started cussing at my dad, flip around, and paddle my face off to get out the back. I scratched over the set, panting, and watched everyone else get flogged. It was a full yardsale of tombstones. My dad started laughing and I was almost in tears.

Eventually I sprinted to the beach. I was creeped out. end of story
 

i_ride_spinnaz

OTF status
Aug 19, 2020
342
705
93
Some random little beachbreak in Davenport I used to surf when I lived up there. Fun wedge set up that was dependable when it sucked everywhere else. Would routinely get buzzed by a massive vehicle size elephant seal out there. Would be sitting out there and he would just pop up and stare at us like Darth Vader. Got out of the water once cuz he got too close and he literally kept his head out, watching us the entire time we walked back up the cliff, staring at us the entire way.

There was also this kid on that beach once-- might have been the same day-- maybe 6-7 years old. Full lost boys kid, bedraggled as all hell, running around starting fires on the beach. Asked him where his parents were and he just shrugged and pointed to some bushy area off in the distance, then ran on back down the beach with gas can and lighter in hand.
 

rice

Duke status
Jul 2, 2002
24,304
1,801
113
CA
Some random little beachbreak in Davenport I used to surf when I lived up there. Fun wedge set up that was dependable when it sucked everywhere else. Would routinely get buzzed by a massive vehicle size elephant seal out there. Would be sitting out there and he would just pop up and stare at us like Darth Vader. Got out of the water once cuz he got too close and he literally kept his head out, watching us the entire time we walked back up the cliff, staring at us the entire way.

There was also this kid on that beach once-- might have been the same day-- maybe 6-7 years old. Full lost boys kid, bedraggled as all hell, running around starting fires on the beach. Asked him where his parents were and he just shrugged and pointed to some bushy area off in the distance, then ran on back down the beach with gas can and lighter in hand.
Lagunas?
 

keenfish

Duke status
May 12, 2002
18,754
6,446
113
Trona
www.pbase.com
Potrero Grande aka Ollie's Point: have surfed there since this intrepid tale:

March or April 2010, was probably my fifth trip there with my buddy and we had it all to ourselves great conditions, ~5'+ with some larger sets. A fantastic set up, again no one else there!

After your ride, paddling back out to the point you would pass directly over this boil of bait fish, well after about an hour, as I am on top of the boil of fish, they all 'jump' out of the water, it sounded like a jet engine had gone off with their tails flapping against the water, I remember vividly, what I think was a skip jack 'skipping' across the water for about 50 yards out to sea so fast!

Having grown up surfing in South Florida, a familiar feeling and familiar with the drill "remain calm and keep hands & feet inside the vehicle" So I am pretty mellow inside and looking from side to side and about 15 or 20 feet away from me this crocodile or caiman surfaces. Seems like 7'-8', feels like a juvenile to me, honestly I remained very calm we looked at each other for some period of time, man I remember her eye, felt like a girl too, pretty green with a cat like slit for a pupil, I turn and slowly paddle back to the take off area, she doesn't follow, so good-bye honey. Get to the take off area and say to my buddy "did you f-in see that! I'm paddling back to the boat!"

Well of course he has no choice but to go back boat as well. He didn't want to, great swell, place to ourselves and over the years you've heard they don't attack humans; which I guess is generally true but....

The locals in boat reiterate the notion that "they won't hurt you, their mellow." So back into the water we go, the plan being to paddle around that area.

I catch a couple of waves, trying to ignore the past event, and after one I ride all the way in, I turn to paddle out and in the upwelling of a large swell there is, no kidding, a LARGE (I would say 12') adult looking croc/caiman swimming in the face of the wave towards my buddy. I yell out to him from the beach, but crashing waves, he can't hear me. Unbeknownst to me he sees it and it is swimming directly at him, he senses it is starting a circling like maneuver around him, a wave comes he catches it and rides it to the beach on his stomach.

Manage to paddle back to the boat, shoot the boat into Playa del Coco, I jump out and run into the 'mercado' for a case of beer, back into the boat for the ride home and man that beer tasted good!!!!

All makes sense if you look at the break there is that river flowing from the estuary into the ocean. Certainly had heard about the one that swims out to the break at Witches Rock.

View attachment 96873
 
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rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
11,534
5,832
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54
Some random little beachbreak in Davenport I used to surf when I lived up there. Fun wedge set up that was dependable when it sucked everywhere else. Would routinely get buzzed by a massive vehicle size elephant seal out there. Would be sitting out there and he would just pop up and stare at us like Darth Vader. Got out of the water once cuz he got too close and he literally kept his head out, watching us the entire time we walked back up the cliff, staring at us the entire way.

There was also this kid on that beach once-- might have been the same day-- maybe 6-7 years old. Full lost boys kid, bedraggled as all hell, running around starting fires on the beach. Asked him where his parents were and he just shrugged and pointed to some bushy area off in the distance, then ran on back down the beach with gas can and lighter in hand.
Once while paddling back outside came across two otters getting it on full bright pink boner and all. Male chased me back out side and all...
 

scdad

Legend (inyourownmind)
Mar 20, 2003
445
294
63
San Clemente, CA
Doing the drive down to waddell I see all these setups with good potential , early weekday mornings and there are random cars off the side of the highway with guys surfing random peaks by themselves. Would not have the stones to do that alone
Hahaha ... ignorance is bliss I guess. I surfed some of those spots around Waddell like that last winter, and didn't think about that. Had a fun time pretending I was at home in cold water. Doh! But, Scott's did spook me, especially when a jellyfish got pinned between me and my board when I came up from a duck dive. Now, I'll have second thoughts I guess.
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,214
17,643
113
Petak Island
I don't understand what else is creepy other than sharks? Was the answer you were looking for President's Peak, off Epstein Island? I mean I can imagine surfing in the wild Arctic could be creepy, if I didn't have a local with a rifle to drop any polar bears.

Also, for me, it's more to do with the weather. If it's a clear day, and I can see the ripple lines in the sand top to bottom, I feel better. If it's overcast, maybe some fog, maybe some drizzle, it's front and center on my mind. I am pretty sure you don't give half a f--k, but that gloomy, lower visibility thing SCREAMS "throw topwater" at anyone who fishes, because that's when violent, surface polaris attacks are more likely throughout the day vs dawn/dusk.

I can only imagine some of those spots in Northern California, salmon around, seals on the beach, monster trees, monster cliffs, fog/clouds, strong surf, shore partially or completely shrouded behind you, and being out in some lineup with sea stacks a hundred feet tall suddenly popping up out of the gloom as the current pushes you around and out of position, kelpy gurgles and swirls everywhere you look, basically everything you see makes you feel small......
Just feel there's creepy energy some places.

Humboldt Harbor gives me an uncomfortable "lost at sea feeling" with the wide open raw power channeling through there. Combined with the gloom and cold it just makes my dick go limp.

Ex Isla Alacran - nothing friendly or welcoming about the place. Like the ocean saying "I will swamp this island and swallow you..." Same lost at sea feeling again + a broken neck or impaled on rebar or both bonus.
 
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casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,214
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Petak Island
Between the entire bit from Jalama -> North firing on the regular in Fall/Winter, places that are offshore with a southerly with a storm approaching, and places that are offshore on a NW, then the Channel Islands, I don't buy this.
Nothing really pumps in CA. If it's pumping you're not sitting around during a 30 minute lull with your mind getting the best of you. You're paddling back out to the lineup in hopes of grabbing the next set that you know will be there momentarily.

Mind occupied and pleasurejuice spilling out of the brain vs sitting and waiting to be chomped, and you're cold, and will the next set ever come?
 
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Woke AF

Tom Curren status
Jul 29, 2009
11,439
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Southern Tip, Norcal
At OBSF a couple of weeks ago. Typical crap 15mph on-shore junk. One other guy out who was 20 yards inside of me. A sea lion pops up 20 yards outside of me with a salmon or stripper in its mouth. Good size fish 20-30 lbs. he could only get his mouth partially around its head.

The sea lion starts slapping the fish against the water, then starts flipping it 10 yards this way, go gets it and flips it back. The gulls find the party and start finding the pieces of the fish. The rip is pulling me in that direction and I am feeling a little weird about it all. The sea lion gives the carcass solid flip and in goes 20 yards and lands about 10 feet from me. I thought about throwing it back but then had the image of how a dog will bite your hand if you reach for their treat. Nope.
 
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stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
3,930
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Willow Creek for me, as far as spots I actually go in at (big sur lighthouse and places like that don't count, I should think). Something about that place makes me uncomfortable to be in the water. I don't think it's sharks. It feels like a place that's going to take me under and keep me there.IMG_20190618_204902_858.jpg
20190618_204304.jpg
 
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Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
26,270
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Jacksonville Beach
If it's pumping you're not sitting around during a 30 minute lull with your mind getting the best of you. You're paddling back out to the lineup in hopes of grabbing the next set that you know will be there momentarily.

Mind occupied and pleasurejuice spilling out of the brain vs sitting and waiting to be chomped, and you're cold, and will the next set ever come?
I turned around while paddling out at a spot in Florida very, very close to an inlet, in very consistent head high surf, when I saw feeding sharks on all sides. Up/down current, in the face of the approaching wave, and directly inside. I rate the **** out of head high surf, and this spot had nobody out, and I tucked cock and booked it back in.

Nothing really pumps in CA.
Yeah. All these other west-facing temperate latitude places are the end-all, be-all of legit perfection. But nothing really pumps in California. It's all chest high Oceanside.

Personally, as it relates to the Mex/Centro thread, I would leave Florida for Centro on account of the cost of living and surf, but I'd consider Central America a step down, surfwise, from California. On average, I've had better surf in California in December/January than Centro in June/July/August.

Can you let me know why head high Playa Hermosa, or any main spot in Peru or Nicaragua with 50 people hassling every bit as bad as Lowers, somehow pumps, but California doesn't?





 

92122

Michael Peterson status
Jul 29, 2015
2,598
1,024
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Where Bethany lost her arm.
Tunnels... yeah, snorkeled the inside and swam out to the middle of the crater where it just drops away and thought F no without a group of people.... then pictured going all the way out to the edge of the reef where the surf zone is and thought No WAY, so far out there.
 

HarryLopez

Phil Edwards status
Jan 17, 2007
6,580
544
113
Neck deep
Wailupe, anywhere between goats and kaneohe bay, paddling out to Rabbits or Mokes, Sandy's side, bodysurfing black pt and kaiks, westside Coweye and Molos.... Hell, any place at certain times are creepy.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,691
20,903
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The Bar
Tunnels... yeah, snorkeled the inside and swam out to the middle of the crater where it just drops away and thought F no without a group of people.... then pictured going all the way out to the edge of the reef where the surf zone is and thought No WAY, so far out there.
Was out there a couple years snorkeling, free diving down to around 20' where it drops away on west side of break. All of a sudden I see a school of these good size fish (ulua?) just scatter about 75 feet from me. I do not know what made them scatter like that but my heart was in my throat and I did not want to find out. Already had paranoid vibes before that even happened. I beelined towards the shelf as fast as I could and next thing I knew, was surrounded by several sea turtles, chilling, and floating with the surge. Went from fear to joy in less than a minute.
 
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